Push button start issues

[djwishbone]

I've done some extensive searching on here and thought I'd reach out to the community to see if there is anything I've missed. I really didn't want the push button start, I've had issues with them in the past, but wanted this color (lunar storm) and it was the only option!

Here's the current state of my 2016 FRS (MT) with less than 200 miles on it:

• The car will turn on everything when I press the button but the engine will not even attempt to start. Lights work, stereo works, HVAC fan will come on. I've turned all that off for now, but it all works.
• Green key light is solid, not blinking to indicate steering lock or clutch switch issue. Not sure if there is a neutral switch for MT vehicles? Car is in neutral.
• Steering wheel is still locked.
• Yellow Alarm car/lock symbol is still blinking the entire time, not sure when that is supposed to turn off?
• Car will not even attempt to turn over. I hear noises from the engine bay that sound like maybe fuel or some other pump running?

Here's what I've tried:

• Charge the battery. It's hold a 13+V float charge after charging. It did need to be charged but seemed to take a charge and my vector charger claims the battery is good. I suppose it could still be a battery issue, but the voltage is reading high?
• Tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to "reset" the ECU.
• Loaded up Torque pro looking for any stored codes, it returns nothing. Reset it anyway just to try.
• Tried to move the steering wheel back and forth. It's still locked, never gets unlocked, however the green key indicator is not blinking fast, it's solid.
• Checked all fuses for ignition, found some issues with injector wire grounding in the archives. All fuses seem good.
• Wiggled the relay switch, also found in the archives. Could still be bad, but messing with it didn't help.
• Tried both keys, tried pushing the key to the button, but the green dash indicator is solid, which leads me to believe it's detecting the key just fine.
• Parasitic draw is around 350 mA, that seems REALLY high to me, but there's a lot of electronics on these modern cars? This is with the keyfob out of range.

Mods:

• I put in a new rear-view mirror right before I noticed the issue. I have to think this is a coincidence. I wired it to the glove-box cig plug wires that should be able to supply the 20mA the mirror seems to draw without any issues. Car had been sitting for a day without running.
• Full tint and clear bra installed the day before. (last time the vehicle was running)
• No other mods.

[steve99]

Originally Posted by djwishbone

I've done some extensive searching on here and thought I'd reach out to the community to see if there is anything I've missed. I really didn't want the push button start, I've had issues with them in the past, but wanted this color (lunar storm) and it was the only option!

Here's the current state of my 2016 FRS (MT) with less than 200 miles on it:

• The car will turn on everything when I press the button but the engine will not even attempt to start. Lights work, stereo works, HVAC fan will come on. I've turned all that off for now, but it all works.
• Green key light is solid, not blinking to indicate steering lock or clutch switch issue. Not sure if there is a neutral switch for MT vehicles? Car is in neutral.
• Steering wheel is still locked.
• Yellow Alarm car/lock symbol is still blinking the entire time, not sure when that is supposed to turn off?
• Car will not even attempt to turn over. I hear noises from the engine bay that sound like maybe fuel or some other pump running?

Here's what I've tried:

• Charge the battery. It's hold a 13+V float charge after charging. It did need to be charged but seemed to take a charge and my vector charger claims the battery is good. I suppose it could still be a battery issue, but the voltage is reading high?
• Tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes to "reset" the ECU.
• Loaded up Torque pro looking for any stored codes, it returns nothing. Reset it anyway just to try.
• Tried to move the steering wheel back and forth. It's still locked, never gets unlocked, however the green key indicator is not blinking fast, it's solid.
• Checked all fuses for ignition, found some issues with injector wire grounding in the archives. All fuses seem good.
• Wiggled the relay switch, also found in the archives. Could still be bad, but messing with it didn't help.
• Tried both keys, tried pushing the key to the button, but the green dash indicator is solid, which leads me to believe it's detecting the key just fine.
• Parasitic draw is around 350 mA, that seems REALLY high to me, but there's a lot of electronics on these modern cars? This is with the keyfob out of range.

Mods:

• I put in a new rear-view mirror right before I noticed the issue. I have to think this is a coincidence. I wired it to the glove-box cig plug wires that should be able to supply the 20mA the mirror seems to draw without any issues. Car had been sitting for a day without running.
• Full tint and clear bra installed the day before. (last time the vehicle was running)
• No other mods.

If the key symbol on dash is still yellow then the key fob code is not being read by the car. try the other key fob. Also try holding the keyfob right next to the start switch button for 30 sec then press start.

make sure clutch is fully depressed or car wont start

if still no good

try removing a battery terminal then press brake pedal, this will reset all ecu in car, and also your radio so you will need security code for that if set.

then try again

still no good

you may have an imobiler module issue, remove your mods and call dealer, it not a cheap or easy fix and your car is under warantee.

[djwishbone]

It's not the key symbol that is yellow. It's the alarm security indicator that is blinking yellow. The key symbol is solid green.

Thanks for the suggestions. I did remove the battery terminal, but did not do the brake thing. I'll give that shot.

[Sportsguy83]

I had a friend with a very similar issue. There was a fuse in the engine fusebox that got burned. I helped him troubleshoot it but can't remember right now off the top of my head. It was a fuse for IGN 1 if I'm not mistaken.

(I know you said you checked the fuses, but maybe try and look again because there was more than one IGN fuses in the box).

[djwishbone]

I tested all of them unfortunately. It's at the dealer now, I'll update when I hear back but my best guess is on faulty computer somewhere.

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[XtremeMaC]

just fyi there are 2 locations for the fuses, one under the hood passenger side, one in the interior driver side... just had a taillamp fuse go bad on me, taillamp fuse is in the cabin.

again fyi, you can remove the socket to the clutch, this way it'll work even without pressing it..

[djwishbone]

Update... The dealer is telling me the sensor for the locking solenoid on the steering wheel is bad and will take three weeks to get from Toyota? Is Toyota going down as a reliable brand or is this just a fluke? Three weeks to get any part on a car that has been around for three years also seems ridiculous?

[Yoshoobaroo]

Originally Posted by djwishbone

Update... The dealer is telling me the sensor for the locking solenoid on the steering wheel is bad and will take three weeks to get from Toyota? Is Toyota going down as a reliable brand or is this just a fluke? Three weeks to get any part on a car that has been around for three years also seems ridiculous?

Try a Subaru dealer for the part, it's a Subaru after all.

[djwishbone]

Well the car has less than 200 miles on it. Would be nice if subaru would honor the warranty to. I'd rather not have to pay for it.

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[iamjacob]

Can you get a dealer loaner or a rental from the dealer? If the car is down because of a warrantied part I'd be pretty annoyed if they just said no car for you for three weeks.

[djwishbone]

I could but I don't really need a loaner. I want my car! I'm with you on the annoyed part.

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[gramicci101]

Originally Posted by djwishbone

Update... The dealer is telling me the sensor for the locking solenoid on the steering wheel is bad and will take three weeks to get from Toyota? Is Toyota going down as a reliable brand or is this just a fluke? Three weeks to get any part on a car that has been around for three years also seems ridiculous?

I would think it's a fluke, just because this is not a high volume car and that's a very rare part to need. If you needed a common part off a Corolla, then I'm sure they have a ton of them in stock. Or even if you needed a common part for an FRS.

[djwishbone]

Here is the part they say they're replacing, didn't get the part number. Electric Starting Lock Assembly.

[XtremeMaC]

the sensor for the immobilizer?