Phantom FTS Electric Supercharger Owners Thread

[super josh]

One other thing, the Ebay voltmeters have a couple of little mounting 'ears' that need to be removed before it will fit in the original ESC dash mount case. The 'ears' don't have any pcb traces running through them, so you can snip them off with side cutters and then smooth the edges with either a Dremel or sand paper.

Josh

[zc06_kisstherain]

anybody tracked with phantom here? any caution or worry? or ok to run?

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

anybody tracked with phantom here? any caution or worry? or ok to run?

It has... As for how long you have boost... But run it with no worries.


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[rdub-S]

Originally Posted by zc06_kisstherain

anybody tracked with phantom here? any caution or worry? or ok to run?

I ran mine on the track about a month ago. It was a cool day and I never tripped the thermal protection (as far as I could tell). I ended up shutting it off during my second session because the batteries couldn't keep up, even with the accessory charger. It was pulling the voltage down to 16 volts or so, and would only recover to about 24 volts (where I normally drop to 21 or 22 and run at 28.6 volts fully charged). The batteries did not fully recharge even after letting the car idle for 20 minutes between sessions. To prevent overworking the batteries, I gave them the rest of the day off and ran with the system switched off.

It definitely made a big difference while it lasted. The batteries recovered on the hour-long drive home at the end of the day.

If my purpose for owning this car was for track sessions, I'd have a different system. I have this for what it does on the street, and it couldn't be better for that.

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by rdub-S

I ran mine on the track about a month ago. It was a cool day and I never tripped the thermal protection (as far as I could tell). I ended up shutting it off during my second session because the batteries couldn't keep up, even with the accessory charger. It was pulling the voltage down to 16 volts or so, and would only recover to about 24 volts (where I normally drop to 21 or 22 and run at 28.6 volts fully charged). The batteries did not fully recharge even after letting the car idle for 20 minutes between sessions. To prevent overworking the batteries, I gave them the rest of the day off and ran with the system switched off.

It definitely made a big difference while it lasted. The batteries recovered on the hour-long drive home at the end of the day.

If my purpose for owning this car was for track sessions, I'd have a different system. I have this for what it does on the street, and it couldn't be better for that.

I got the audio batteries specifically because they dump fast and recharge fast. Even when I only had 2 audio batteries they recharged so fast it was like they bounced back. I will try and make a video showing what I mean.

I think the ideal battery setup, using the stock location, would be 1 big crank to run the car with, and 2 audio batteries to run the ESC with. When I used that setup it all fit reasonably well, only minor mods to the top piece, and worked well. The voltage did drop quickly and dramatically with only 2 audio batteries though. With 4 audio batteries I hardly ever see it drop below 25V. That pc680 optima was just too weak though. I was always having to jumpstart my car after only leaving my OFT plugged in overnight. Now I leave it plugged in all the time and never have to jumpstart. 1 big crank is a good replacement for the pc680, but 2 is even better.

[super josh]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

I got the audio batteries specifically because they dump fast and recharge fast. Even when I only had 2 audio batteries they recharged so fast it was like they bounced back. I will try and make a video showing what I mean.

This sounds interesting, which audio batteries did you use?

Josh

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by super josh

This sounds interesting, which audio batteries did you use?

Josh

The Shuriken 12 volt 600 amp. http://www.shurikenonline.com/index....&products_id=2
I noticed when I only had 2 installed voltage dropped fast down to 20 volts or lower, with 4 installed it rarely drops below 25 volts. They are designed to have low resistance for use as a surge buffer for high-power audio amps. They are even better than capacitors for supplying power as needed. So, I'm using them to supply an electric motor, and I'm using 2 Big Crank's to supply power to my audio amp's. I would really like to try the bigger Phantom, to see how they would stand up to the bigger power draw.

[l0aded]

@Sojhinn

Any update on PC680s vs ETX16s?

My ETX16 that was bad was warrantied and they sent me a new one so I swapped back to the 2x ETX16s for dump packs. Comparing a 1 year old PC680 (used as starter) + a new PC680 against 2 new ETX16s, the system feels way better with the latter. In general, it just feels noticably powerful with the new ETX16 batteries and voltages don't drop as low.

Most likely it is because one of my PC680s is one year old but wanted to get your input.

[Sojhinn]

Originally Posted by l0aded

@Sojhinn

Any update on PC680s vs ETX16s?

My ETX16 that was bad was warrantied and they sent me a new one so I swapped back to the 2x ETX16s for dump packs. Comparing a 1 year old PC680 (used as starter) + a new PC680 against 2 new ETX16s, the system feels way better with the latter. In general, it just feels noticably powerful with the new ETX16 batteries and voltages don't drop as low.

Most likely it is because one of my PC680s is one year old but wanted to get your input.

I wish I could give a comparison. I'm in the middle of something right now in regards to my car. I promise more news when I can give it.




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[KoolBRZ]

As @keen as discovered, the PROcede controller doesn't give full boost when the throttle is calibrated properly. See the posts starting here;

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=87889&page=14

With the help of @keen as and others, I've completed a new calibration guide to allow maximum boost at full throttle.

Here is how to do it. Turn on your car without starting it. Plug the Procede cable into your laptop. Open Procede software, click on the red connect button to connect. Wait for current map to load. If you are going to continue using this map, proceed to next step, otherwise, click open to load the map you want to use. Wait for map to load. Click on the Analogue Inputs link on the left-hand column to open it. Click and drag it to the left, so you can see the readouts on the right, as shown in the pic. Calibrate the throttle by clicking on the "Set Throttle" button once, step on the throttle several times, take your foot off the throttle, click the "Set Throttle" button once again, step on the throttle several times, WHILE HOLDING THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR, click the "Set Throttle" button once again, release the throttle.

Now edit the Max Throttle field by adding enough so that the "Engine Load In %" is between 92 and 93% when the throttle is pushed to the floor. Over 95% is too much, it jumps to the 100% column, under 85% is too little, it drops to the 80% column. 92.5% allows for some variance in the throttle calibration, but ensures full throttle is in the 90% column.

Unless your current map has the same numbers in the last two rows, you will lose boost at full throttle, and unless the throttle is re-calibrated to go no further the the second to last column, you will lose boost at full throttle. So, I recommend copying the same numbers to the last two columns of the map, and re-calibrating your throttle. See my pics below for examples.

[kritch]

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

As @keen as discovered, the PROcede controller doesn't give full boost when the throttle is calibrated properly. See the posts starting here;

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...=87889&page=14

With the help of @keen as and others, I've completed a new calibration guide to allow maximum boost at full throttle.

Here is how to do it. Turn on your car without starting it. Plug the Procede cable into your laptop. Open Procede software, click on the red connect button to connect. Wait for current map to load. If you are going to continue using this map, proceed to next step, otherwise, click open to load the map you want to use. Wait for map to load. Click on the Analogue Inputs link on the left-hand column to open it. Click and drag it to the left, so you can see the readouts on the right, as shown in the pic. Calibrate the throttle by clicking on the "Set Throttle" button once, step on the throttle several times, take your foot off the throttle, click the "Set Throttle" button once again, step on the throttle several times, WHILE HOLDING THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR, click the "Set Throttle" button once again, release the throttle.

Now edit the Max Throttle field by adding enough so that the "Engine Load In %" is between 92 and 93% when the throttle is pushed to the floor. Over 95% is too much, it jumps to the 100% column, under 85% is too little, it drops to the 80% column. 92.5% allows for some variance in the throttle calibration, but ensures full throttle is in the 90% column.

Unless your current map has the same numbers in the last two rows, you will lose boost at full throttle, and unless the throttle is re-calibrated to go no further the the second to last column, you will lose boost at full throttle. So, I recommend copying the same numbers to the last two columns of the map, and re-calibrating your throttle. See my pics below for examples.

Hard work appreciated. Hope to use it someday.

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[MGPAX]

I was just looking all over the place for their "600 amp" model!" I think you mean "600 Watts" Big difference! LOL

Originally Posted by KoolBRZ

The Shuriken 12 volt 600 amp. http://www.shurikenonline.com/index....&products_id=2
I noticed when I only had 2 installed voltage dropped fast down to 20 volts or lower, with 4 installed it rarely drops below 25 volts. They are designed to have low resistance for use as a surge buffer for high-power audio amps. They are even better than capacitors for supplying power as needed. So, I'm using them to supply an electric motor, and I'm using 2 Big Crank's to supply power to my audio amp's. I would really like to try the bigger Phantom, to see how they would stand up to the bigger power draw.

[KoolBRZ]

Originally Posted by MGPAX

I was just looking all over the place for their "600 amp" model!" I think you mean "600 Watts" Big difference! LOL

Yes, 20 AH 600 watt. It's still way better than the PC680 at only 16 AH. The internal resistance is lower which helps it dump faster.

[MGPAX]

What I'm looking into and wondering about is how you all are making this work.

The Phantom is a 3.5-4 thousand watt motor at 24volts which is over 150 Amp draw.

If your batteries are only capable of 600 watts, that's 50 amps or 20 AH (20 amps output for an hour).

I fly electric jets at 4K watts and I do it with 50 volts and batteries that can put out 140 amps, but only need to put out 90. (at full throttle)

I just don't see how you guys are not destroying those batteries and underpowering that motor on the Phantom to death?!