No start after pulling the mir relay.

[Brz_racer]

Is it a pushbutton or key start?

[Rob37072]

Found my better "beeping" multi-meter. Just went through all the fuses under the hood and in the foot well again, all have continuity.

I don't follow wiring diagrams well... if the mirror heater relay broke when i pulled it would that kill the power to the ECU?

I have an FRS, the red "car and lock" is flashing and the door ajar is on. When I insert the key the car and lock light goes out. Door ajar works as you would expect. Nothing else on the dash works.

Radio works, headlights work.

Betting on a trip to the dealer...

[Rob37072]

Originally Posted by Brz_racer

Is it a pushbutton or key start?

No, it's a '13 FRS.

[Brz_racer]

This might be a stupid thing to ask but I'll ask it anyway, if you have an Auto Trans are you in Park or Neutral. Just remembered a similar thing happened to my brother awhile back

[Rob37072]

Originally Posted by Razorlor

There is a fusible link in that circuit for the alternator.

The issue I have is that removing a relay shouldn't blow any fuses whatsoever.

I'm assuming you have a multimeter, so do this. Put one lead on the battery positive terminal and the other on the power wire of the alternator and let me know what it reads. (Have it set to DC volts)

12.57.

[Rob37072]

Originally Posted by Brz_racer

This might be a stupid thing to ask but I'll ask it anyway, if you have an Auto Trans are you in Park or Neutral. Just remembered a similar thing happened to my brother awhile back

Nothing is stupid. It's a stick. Problems are obvious before I ever trey too crank it.

[humfrz]

What is the exact volt reading on your battery??


Is the battery the original battery?


Sometimes a weak battery will cause problems.


Before I'd take the car to a dealer, I would take out the battery and take it up to a shop and have it "load tested".


humfrz

[Razorlor]

Originally Posted by Rob37072

12.57.

So from battery POS to the power wire from the alternator, you have a reading of 12.57V?

[Rob37072]

Originally Posted by humfrz

What is the exact volt reading on your battery??


Is the battery the original battery?


Sometimes a weak battery will cause problems.


Before I'd take the car to a dealer, I would take out the battery and take it up to a shop and have it "load tested".


humfrz

Normally I would agree but the car was running, i pulled the relay and it died. I think something is broken...

[Razorlor]

If you did your testing right, I know what the issue is.

Just need you to confirm.

I have to get back to work, but if you did what i asked for testing, you have blown the fusible link (pic below). Remove the cover for the positive battery terminal and look in the glass and see if the elements are separated, if so, you have found your issue.

Worth adding that if you blew this fusible link, you would no longer have ignition power, etc. So it sounds like that is probably what happened here.

[Brz_racer]

Looking in the wiring diagram the only thing tied into the mirror heater is that big fuse on top of the battery.

[steve99]

You should be able to talk to ecu via obd port (ie can buss) with just earth 12v and ignition 12v supplied to ecu.


Check all ecu fuses

[Rob37072]

Originally Posted by Razorlor

If you did your testing right, I know what the issue is.

Just need you to confirm.

I have to get back to work, but if you did what i asked for testing, you have blown the fusible link (pic below). Remove the cover for the positive battery terminal and look in the glass and see if the elements are separated, if so, you have found your issue.

Worth adding that if you blew this fusible link, you would no longer have ignition power, etc. So it sounds like that is probably what happened here.

I checked that and they look ok. I also have continuity between the battery post and both of the big nuts that have blue lines in your image.

I put the meter leads on the big bare starter bolt and the positive terminal on the battery. I didn't really expect 12v, i assumed it was + to +. Maybe i hit the wrong part of the starter.

[Razorlor]

Originally Posted by Rob37072

I checked that and they look ok. I also have continuity between the battery post and both of the big nuts that have blue lines in your image.

I put the meter leads on the big bare starter bolt and the positive terminal on the battery. I didn't really expect 12v, i assumed it was + to +. Maybe i hit the wrong part of the starter.

Alternator bolt and battery positive. It is positive to positive, but it is called voltage drop testing. Easy way to determine if a fuse/fusible link is blown without visually inspecting it.

A meter tells you the different between the two leads. If you go positive to positive and show a difference of 12 volts, it isn't making it to where it should be.