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Wheels | Tires | Spacers | Hub -- Sponsored by The Tire Rack Specific topics relating to wheels and tires.


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Old 12-28-2018, 01:24 PM   #29
Leonardo
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Yes, you will feel the difference in 5 to 7 pound change in wheel weight. Especially if you go that much heavier than stock! LOL


I also can say:
If you take out all the interior and trunk bits, the decrease in weight makes a difference in how the car feels. I also could tell the difference in ride height on springs.
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Old 12-28-2018, 01:47 PM   #30
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I drove my new base 2018 BRZ stock for 3 weeks then went to this for the past 3 weeks:

WedsSport - SA-72R - 18x8.5" - ~19 lbs
Michelin - Pilot Sport 4S - 245/35R18 - 21 lbs

So, 40 lbs vs maybe 45 stock.

In the first 3 weeks I did not push the engine much, but I do take turns fast -- onramps, offramps, roundabouts.

It sticks better now, not that I ever had a problem before. The ride is bumpier / louder / less comfortable for sure. The overall performance in a straight line, I think, is pretty equivalent yet maybe slightly worse, because the 18" wheels decentralize the weight farther out. For me, that's all fine.

The look -- is great. I can't be happier there. (Except there's so much gap it looks half way monster truck right now.)

I already knew that what I should have done was get the TC105X 17x8" (or so) wheels for the best performance. And they look really good, too, but it's just not what I was going for, stylistically.
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Old 12-28-2018, 03:24 PM   #31
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I drove my new base 2018 BRZ stock for 3 weeks then went to this for the past 3 weeks:

WedsSport - SA-72R - 18x8.5" - ~19 lbs
Michelin - Pilot Sport 4S - 245/35R18 - 21 lbs

So, 40 lbs vs maybe 45 stock.

In the first 3 weeks I did not push the engine much, but I do take turns fast -- onramps, offramps, roundabouts.

It sticks better now, not that I ever had a problem before. The ride is bumpier / louder / less comfortable for sure. The overall performance in a straight line, I think, is pretty equivalent yet maybe slightly worse, because the 18" wheels decentralize the weight farther out. For me, that's all fine.

The look -- is great. I can't be happier there. (Except there's so much gap it looks half way monster truck right now.)

I already knew that what I should have done was get the TC105X 17x8" (or so) wheels for the best performance. And they look really good, too, but it's just not what I was going for, stylistically.


Stock wheel tires come to ~41.5 so you didn't lose weight but good job getting wider stickier tires without adding weight.
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Old 12-28-2018, 10:28 PM   #32
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Stock wheel tires come to ~41.5 so you didn't lose weight but good job getting wider stickier tires without adding weight.

When I planned it out, it was actually for 18x7.5's, but they were out of stock, so I got the 8.5's for the same price. Then they would have been a couple pounds lighter still. The extra inch of width added a couple pounds, but I'm just as happy this way.



Every time I look at my car, I know there really was no other choice my particular mind could have ever made...
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:06 AM   #33
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I wish we had some measurements to compare the barrel weight and thickness of roto-formed vs. forged vs. cast, but it's not even easy to get the overall weight, sometimes.
There are wheel charts out there, comparing / chronicling wheels that have been made/sold , size , weight, etc. I use to have one on my old hard drive 5+ years ago, but I don't believe I still have it. If you want the lightest / nicest / strongest ( forged or cast) stick with Rays/Volk , Work , and SSR ( they are light , but have their own semi-state forged manufacturing , not true forged). There are a few other good manufactures, but those are 3 that have a solid track record the last 10-25 years.

People will always gravitate towards bigger ( 18" +) wheels / size of cars/trucks, etc. However factoring in weight, and the size you're getting most sub-compact /compact cars SHOULD have 14" - 16" wheel , and most mid-size cars and/or sports cars SHOULD have 16"-17" . Sure, certain GT sports cars ( older/newer 911 , Supra, 300z , etc) are fine with a 17"-19" (max) size. Newer cars with 20-21" wheels…..outa-control. It's the bling-bling factor (not taking into consideration weight / unsprung weight , effect the size/wight of wheel has on braking and handling characteristics. Pre 2005 , where were all the larger sedans / sports cars with 20-21" wheels stock ? There really weren't any. What happened ?
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Old 12-29-2018, 05:35 AM   #34
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Nope, I didn’t notice the difference between the TWS T66-f 18x9.5” at 7.17kg with 265/35 tyres and my heaviest wheels being the Weds SA10R in 18x9.5” at 9.27kg with the same 265/35 tyres. 2.1kg heavier = 4lb 10z per wheel.

I’ve driven both on road and track with both and don’t notice any difference. But, I wouldn’t say I feel the car like other amateurs either seem to or at least say they do. Pros would notice but not sure average drivers like me would.

If you’re not going on track then I’d go for looks. And, if you are regularly tracking then you might consider smaller lighter wheels for track (if you notice any difference) and another set for street looks.
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Old 01-09-2019, 07:06 PM   #35
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Nope, I didn’t notice the difference between the TWS T66-f 18x9.5” at 7.17kg with 265/35 tyres and my heaviest wheels being the Weds SA10R in 18x9.5” at 9.27kg with the same 265/35 tyres. 2.1kg heavier = 4lb 10z per wheel.

I’ve driven both on road and track with both and don’t notice any difference. But, I wouldn’t say I feel the car like other amateurs either seem to or at least say they do. Pros would notice but not sure average drivers like me would.

If you’re not going on track then I’d go for looks. And, if you are regularly tracking then you might consider smaller lighter wheels for track (if you notice any difference) and another set for street looks.
Probably because the massive inertia of the tires was not affected much by the different wheels used. You are saying you used tires that are at minimum 5 lbs heavier (easily up to 8+lbs heavier) and with at least a .5" larger diameter than stock - the difference in the wheels used to mount them will not matter as much when both wheels are of similar low MOI design to begin with. MOI difference is much more important for wheels than their overall weight. Tires can't be helped much, they are a high MOI shape that isn't going to change. The best you can do is keep it stock or slightly lighter weight with stock or smaller diameter. 265/35-18 tires make great gyroscopes for the corners of an 86!
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Old 01-21-2019, 10:11 AM   #36
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People will always gravitate towards bigger ( 18" +) wheels / size of cars/trucks, etc. However factoring in weight, and the size you're getting most sub-compact /compact cars SHOULD have 14" - 16" wheel , and most mid-size cars and/or sports cars SHOULD have 16"-17" .
Yeah, I kind of hate this trend. My 2000 Celica GT-S I preferred with the 15" wheels that came on the GT. I would swap back & forth and could certainly notice at least a seat of the pants difference, as the 2ZZ-GE isn't exactly a torque monster.

I was bummed that the FR-S was only offered with the 17's. I have a set of JDM OEM 16's scheduled to get delivered by FedEx today (though weather conditions may affect that).

I'm not expecting a massive difference, but I'm not a big wheel guy (and to me 17's are big on a small car)...and I like the look of the 16's better anyway. The weight savings is a nice bonus.
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Old 01-21-2019, 11:02 AM   #37
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Unless you got those oem 16 wheels used, imho oem wheels are too insanely priced for cast wheels if new, hence imho going aftermarket (if new) even if for also cast, not forged, wheels, is preferable. Even more so, if weight saving was goal, as aftermarket has even much lighter products available vs OE.
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Old 01-21-2019, 11:28 AM   #38
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Yes, I got them used with domestic (US) shipping rates. I realize I could have found something lighter in the aftermarket (they are OEM wheels after all). But I'm not planning a track car, and I'll probably rarely (if ever) autocross it either. I'm not trying to get super light, it's just an added benefit that they are lighter than the 17's (and some other 16's).

I just happen to like the OEM JDM 16" wheels, so I figured I'd try to get a set when a reasonable opportunity presented itself. But yeah, I don't remember the "new" cost when I looked, but if I remember it's like $300+ per wheel (not including shipping). Even if buying used from Japan, without having a good contact the shipping can be astronomical by itself. But I'm relatively pleased with what I paid. I should be able to fit them with good tires and still be under/near $1k all said. And part of the appeal to me is that they are uncommon wheels in the US.

I am not claiming it's the best bang for the buck for getting lighter wheels or anything though.
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