ZILLA: (How-To) *REAR FOG LIGHT WITH BRAKE LIGHT* MOD!

[Young_makaveli]

If this wasn't meant to be a 4th brake light then why is there a "lock and unlock" indicator right above the 4th brake light just like the reverse lights ?

[Gunman]

Originally Posted by ZILLA

I ran the (+) wire from each 194 bulb to the driver side tail light harness. The green wire is the regular tail light. The red wire is the brake light. The ground wires went to the OEM ground location in the trunk.

FWIW, I just redid the wiring for the rear fog on my car, and the green was the brake, and red was the parking light.

[headlikeahole]

Originally Posted by Young_makaveli

If this wasn't meant to be a 4th brake light then why is there a "lock and unlock" indicator right above the 4th brake light just like the reverse lights ?

Attachment 114665

Because it's meant to be a fog light.

[PresiO.]

Can anyone tell me the wiring for the frs? it seems to be different.

[NahumCC]

Originally Posted by PresiO.

Can anyone tell me the wiring for the frs? it seems to be different.

I know it doesn't make sense when you look at the wiring colors and what you would expect them to represent but trust me. I stopped during the project I took this in and had to keep reorienting my self to the pages in the repair manual referenced (which you can download from the DIY section).

[PresiO.]

Is it the same with the jdmtoy one? or whatever its called? @NahumCC

[NahumCC]

Originally Posted by PresiO.

Is it the same with the jdmtoy one? or whatever its called? @NahumCC

Should be if your referring to the JDMtoy version of the Valenti rear light bar.

[frslee]

Make sure to spray penetrating oil on the 2 10mm bolts holding the light housing. Mine was rusted badly and it broke.

[PresiO.]

what kind of sealant dd you guys use? if you did seal it up?

[eggncheese]

Originally Posted by PresiO.

what kind of sealant dd you guys use? if you did seal it up?

Silicone RTV adhesive sealant. Gonna be a bitch to get off, but I can be damned sure no moisture is getting in.

Anyone try this with an 1157 socket and bulb?

[twag4]

Originally Posted by eggncheese

Silicone RTV adhesive sealant. Gonna be a bitch to get off, but I can be damned sure no moisture is getting in.

Anyone try this with an 1157 socket and bulb?

Look at post number 4 on first page of this thread. I just happened to go back to original post to see how this has evolved and saw that, after having just read your post.

[eggncheese]

Originally Posted by twag4

Look at post number 4 on first page of this thread. I just happened to go back to original post to see how this has evolved and saw that, after having just read your post.

Yes, I saw that. I should've specified more. Has anyone tried this with an 1157 LED bulb? I've got parts on order. Just seeing if anyone else has opinions or views on this route.

[eggncheese]

Wired mine up using an 1157 red LED, I think it came out pretty nice.

Here's the LED in the socket I purchased.


And a poorly lit picture of the assembly


And finally, the result!
[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Ly49mnnjSg"]4th Brake light LED test - Scion FRS - YouTube[/ame]


I like it and I think it will look good. When the signal for brake signal comes in the light becomes brighter as expected (the camera had to readjust its exposure to compensate for the increased light output). I'm running the diode dynamics tail-as-turn module so I dont even think I'll need brake signal wire, but I'm going to leave it there in case I decide to switch it up.

For those worried about an 1157 getting hot:
Primarily, I used an LED... so it's only going to get but so hot. I did use a pretty beefy LED though. I used a 7W Cree LED that has a pretty big heat sink near the top of the bulb. To make sure this was going to be safe to run for a long period of time I ran a test. I took the temperature of the LED before it went in the assembly, and then I periodically checked the temperature of the heat sink over the course of 30 minutes.

Starting Temperature: 73F
After 10 minutes: 101F
After 20 minutes: 115F
After 25 minutes: 120F
After 30 minutes: 118F

It seemed to reach a max of 120F and stay close to that number. I could pick it up with my hand and handle it normally after 30 minutes. It wasn't very hot at all, just warm. For reference, I measured the temperature of a finger I didn't use to handle the LED and it read 89F. All in all, no need to worry about a melting housing

[Hi_Psi]

Did it, took about 2hrs to do, simple write up, for those who have a frs if i remember correctly red wire is for light to be on and green wire is for brake light