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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 12-19-2014, 10:47 AM   #43
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Originally Posted by Koa View Post
I did it and gave a review about my setup, and thoughts on it. I really feel the 3/4 slave is the cat's meow. Best $50 I ever spent on the driveline

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=38
Ah yes, I do remember your review now! Was the one that put me over the edge when deciding.
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:00 AM   #44
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Originally Posted by Jimmy817 View Post
The Tomei UEL seems to be a great option based on that.

Any reason to go with another header?
I went with JDL because:

1) quality of the welds
2) design of the merge collector
3) option to have it thermal coated (this was important to me)
4) thicker gauge metal (anecdotal, but if true means more thermal mass and possibly quieter)

That said, I think Tomei and OFH are solid options as well.
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:33 AM   #45
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1. Adjustable seat belt @ C-pillar
2. TRD Intake. The sound-tube is a joke and crowded the engine bay for no reason
3. TRD Strut tower
4. TRD Exhaust
5. Shark fin
6. Don't mind the Prius rims but need better tires.
7. Toyota badges!
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6MT FR-S Whiteout:OFT- OTS V2 Stage 2 (93oct & E85), Tomei UEL, Invidia OP, JDL UltraQuiet FP, Ark Grip catback, GS hood struts, Perrin Inlet & K&N drop-in
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:40 AM   #46
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Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
Yes the general consensus is that UEL headers do a better job of eliminating the torque dip than EL headers.
Has anyone ever come up with an understandable explanation for this? It just seems odd. I believe it, but it still seems odd.
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:46 AM   #47
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shark_Bait88 View Post
[Updated to actually contribute to the conversation]

A shark fin antenna. I'm not a fan of the RC car look, but still haven't spent the money to switch mine out.

They do come stock with a shark fin, now.
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:48 AM   #48
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They do come stock with a shark fin, now.
Yeah, but that doesn't help me with my 2013! lol
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Old 12-19-2014, 11:50 AM   #49
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Its ~220 for the part and a pretty straight forward install. I was quoted about 500 bucks for the part and for dealer install though :p
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:04 PM   #50
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Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis View Post
Has anyone ever come up with an understandable explanation for this? It just seems odd. I believe it, but it still seems odd.
I'm sure it has to do with the fluid dynamics of the UEL manifold and the piston sequence at that particular RPM band.
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Old 12-19-2014, 12:25 PM   #51
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Originally Posted by mid_life_crisis View Post
Has anyone ever come up with an understandable explanation for this? It just seems odd. I believe it, but it still seems odd.
This is probably the best explanation I've seen:

Quote:
Originally Posted by david borla View Post
Hi,
This is David Borla from Borla Exhaust.

...

Now let’s address the whole equal length versus unequal length headers thing. First of all, those of you who have noticed that neither of our headers are truly equal length are correct. It was not our intention to make the primaries equal length and we apologize if we mislead anyone. The reason we have two different designs are for differences in sound for an otherwise mostly stock set-up and to give enthusiasts who make other modifications options that may or may not show a performance increase and or durability advantage depending on their setup. Please note that these headers both perform the same on the dyno. I hate to get too deeply into this because it gets into theory of fluid dynamics, engine management, engine dynamics, physics etc. and I have spent hours and hours debating this with enthusiasts but please understand that “equal length” does not automatically result in “maximum performance”. In fact, even “equal flow” may not give you the most power available. You can easily decrease performance by making header primary lengths equal. When designing headers for street cars, in most cases you are at the mercy of packaging and you have to make compromises to keep primary lengths equal. Unlike on a race car, we don’t have the option of moving other critical components on The FR-S to maximize the flow of every primary. We only have a certain amount of space to work in. What winds up happening is that you take a primary/cylinder which is flowing better than the others and decreasing flow on that primary/cylinder to make it equal to others which aren’t flowing as well or in many cases the worst performing one. You don’t want to decrease the flow of any primary and that’s what you wind up doing in the quest for an equal length or even an equal flow header on a street car in most cases (not every case but most). What you really want is maximum flow, the most you can get from every cylinder. I can’t say it enough, maximum flow is where it’s at. You don’t want to decrease the flow of any primary. Another important aspect of this is that maximum flow does not mean the largest primary size available, primaries that are too large in diameter will also decrease flow. It depends on the engine characteristics and essentially how much air is being pushed by each cylinder. Bigger is not necessarily better, neither is equal length or even equal flow. Sure, in a perfect world, where every primary’s flow is maximized to its full potential, there are possible benefits to equal flow, again only if every single primary is flowing as much as it possibly can. If the flow of one or more primaries is limited by packaging, the only way to get equal flow is to limit the flow of the other primaries which will only hinder performance. Our intention was to design and manufacture bolt on headers that add as much performance as possible while sounding awesome and remaining highly durable. We are confident we have achieved this combination and back it with our million mile warranty.
It's kind of long winded, but if I can extrapolate a bit, I think what he's saying is that the length of the two shorter primaries on UEL headers is probably the ideal length to promote exhaust flow in the torque dip range (3200-4500 RPM).

You can lengthen the shorter primaries to create an EL header, but in so doing, you lose that ideal primary length you had on two of the cylinders.

That is just how I interpret his statement, but could be wrong...

BTW I think if you extend the primary length enough, you eventually reach another resonance frequency that would generate ideal exhaust flow for that torque dip range. I think that is what Nameless was going for with their EL header, which is why the primary lengths on that header are so long. It's also a 4-2-1 design.
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Old 12-19-2014, 01:08 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkSunrise View Post
This is probably the best explanation I've seen:



It's kind of long winded, but if I can extrapolate a bit, I think what he's saying is that the length of the two shorter primaries on UEL headers is probably the ideal length to promote exhaust flow in the torque dip range (3200-4500 RPM).

You can lengthen the shorter primaries to create an EL header, but in so doing, you lose that ideal primary length you had on two of the cylinders.

That is just how I interpret his statement, but could be wrong...

BTW I think if you extend the primary length enough, you eventually reach another resonance frequency that would generate ideal exhaust flow for that torque dip range. I think that is what Nameless was going for with their EL header, which is why the primary lengths on that header are so long. It's also a 4-2-1 design.
Borla continuing to be one of the few big box auto manufacturers with executives rolling up their sleeves and getting in the trenches. Hats off to David and his crew, have used them in the past for various rigs and they go up to bat for their products, with the R&D and industry know-how to do so at their pricepoints. Still mass produced stuff, but nice to see he's vested AND learned in the ways of his core business. Can't say that about many other executives these days
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:30 PM   #53
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Beginning to think a (or dual) catch cans/breather should have been stock.
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Old 12-19-2014, 02:39 PM   #54
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The topic was OBVIOUSLY geared towards people with similar sentiments as my own who would like to discuss and share.
GrimmSpeed tower bar is an inexpensive mod.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ighlight=tower

Carbon fibre drive shaft
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59392
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18364

Lithium ion battery, easiest 11 kg saving.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1965

Lighter wheel can have multiple benefits depending on how much weight is saved.
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Old 12-19-2014, 04:53 PM   #55
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The first mods I did that really felt like; "now this should have come this way from the factory"

Axle back for nicer sound
Running high octane well above 91 made a huge difference (I mix 100 now to achieve 94+)
Drop in and silicone intake tube
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Old 12-20-2014, 09:13 PM   #56
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Your introductory statement about "from the factory" was superfluous. I found it to be contentious hence my response. All your into needed to say was "I am looking for some mods under x dollars. What do you suggest?"

GrimmSpeed tower bar is an inexpensive mod.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...ighlight=tower

Carbon fibre drive shaft
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=59392
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18364

Lithium ion battery, easiest 11 kg saving.
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...postcount=1965

Lighter wheel can have multiple benefits depending on how much weight is saved.
Cheapest performance mod for me would be to start riding my bicycle to work and drop 70 lbs.
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