Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Also, look ahead to your next corner/apex earlier. Right now, you're fixated onwhat's ahead of you. Look one more step ahead.

Originally Posted by ddeflyer

Looking up is one of those things that takes a really long time to get programmed in.

If developing this habit is a priority, it can help if you slow down. (Kind of obvious, I know.)

[ShoShin]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@becauseracecar1

Your rear came around because you stabbed at the gas pedal (based on what I can hear), with the steering wheel turned. Remember, at your level, your steering wheel dictates how much you can brake and gas.

If you're turning 20%, you can brake or gas 80%. If you're turning 50%, you can brake or gas 50%.

As far as inputs go, keep your hands at the same position on the steering wheel. I see your hands shuffling a lot.

Also, look ahead to your next corner/apex earlier. Right now, you're fixated onwhat's ahead of you. Look one more step ahead.

The ride-along you gave from the other day was like 100% crazy regardless of what your steering angle was!!

[Simon99]

I have a quick one. How to you countersteer during a slide without turning the car into a 360 with the nannies off. ..

[ddeflyer]

becauseracecar1: Another thing to realize is that "the line" is not the be all and end all of track driving. For a beginner it often becomes a safety blanket that is assumed to keep them on track. Because "the line" seems like a stable, understandable element in a foreign environment, there is a strong tendency to focus on each apex, often to the detriment of other, more important factors. It might feel like hitting your apexes perfectly is the determinant of what a good driver is, or that hitting those apexes might make you a great driver, the envy of all the beginners; it won't.
In reality the line is a placement on track that will be pretty darn good for most cars (assuming they have a good driver) to turn a fast lap time. By realizing that your apexing won't miraculously make you the next Andretti or Senna, you can start to relax about not being perfect. You can start to look up, see what is around you. Those flag stations will be visible much sooner and you will pick up alot more information about what happened in each corner. You will be able to start noticing what happens when you give the car one input vs. another and suddenly the meaning of being smooth will reveal itself much more than anything I, or anyone on this board, can tell you. Being smooth you will see that it is faster to keep a constant lock through a corner and accept being a foot or two off the school line rather than trying to steer onto the optimal path (not to mention you will learn to place the car faster by seeing where it arcs to).

[glamcem]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

@becauseracecar1

Your rear came around because you stabbed at the gas pedal (based on what I can hear), with the steering wheel turned. Remember, at your level, your steering wheel dictates how much you can brake and gas.

If you're turning 20%, you can brake or gas 80%. If you're turning 50%, you can brake or gas 50%.

As far as inputs go, keep your hands at the same position on the steering wheel. I see your hands shuffling a lot.

Also, look ahead to your next corner/apex earlier. Right now, you're fixated onwhat's ahead of you. Look one more step ahead.

exactly, one thing to add, you may also want to practice squeezing the gas pedal as you open the steering wheel to gain better exit speed, it's like allocating those inputs/percentages more efficiently (reducing the turning input in other words opening and simultaneously increasing the speed).. it will become a habit after a while..effects of failure to do this even more dramatic with a high horsepower car (such as a V8 sports car) so if you're not really careful or patient with your input, it'll bite your as$

[dradernh]

Originally Posted by Simon99

I have a quick one. How to you countersteer during a slide without turning the car into a 360 with the nannies off. ..

Off the top of my head:

1) For a rear-wheel only slide, and if there's a significant amount of rear-end step-out, early enough that a tank-slapper doesn't get started because of the amount of countersteer required to catch the initial movement;
2) Very quickly; and,
3) With just the right amount of countersteer.

That will fix the 360 problem; whether it arrests the slide in the manner you wish is something else - sometimes you have to get creative with the controls. For example, it's possible for your car to pick up speed while it's in a major four-wheel slide, even when it's on a level section of track; in that case, and if the slide is going to take you off the track, it may be time for two feet in, or some brake and then throttle...whatever works. Obviously, learning this stuff on a race track is a bit dicey - that's why karting, autocross, rally school, winter car control school, etc. are there.

[ZionsWrath]

When you are swapping between track and street pads and have to compress the piston, are you opening the bleed screw? If so are you bleeding the brakes a bit after?

How will I know when rotors need replacement? Do I measure them or will it be obvious through braking feel and/or physical appearance?

[jvincent]

Assuming the street pads are somewhat worn, then you will probably need to compress the pistons. You don't need to open the bleed valve to compress the pistons, although it would make it easier and if you are planning to bleed anyway, then you can for that.

If you are going to track the car it's a good idea to change out the stock fluid anyway so I would plan on a full flush.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

[ZionsWrath]

Originally Posted by jvincent

Assuming the street pads are somewhat worn, then you will probably need to compress the pistons. You don't need to open the bleed valve to compress the pistons, although it would make it easier and if you are planning to bleed anyway, then you can for that.

If you are going to track the car it's a good idea to change out the stock fluid anyway so I would plan on a full flush.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk

Yea I already did a full flush with Motul 600, After track day I will put stock pads back for street and since they are somewhat worn I'm sure I'll be able to put the in and press the brake pedal and be fine.

I mean in future when swapping back and forth. Sometimes am going to have to press the piston in to fit pads.

[gramicci101]

An easy way to compress pistons in a sliding caliper, like OEM calipers, is to use a bar clamp to compress the caliper and the bracket before you take the caliper off the rotor. The pistons will be pushed straight in because they're being pushed against the rotor, so you don't need to worry about getting them cocked in the bores.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Simon99

I have a quick one. How to you countersteer during a slide without turning the car into a 360 with the nannies off. ..

WHy are you sliding to begin with? The cause of the slide is, IMO, more important than anything else.

You countersteer by, literally, turning the direction is rotating. If the rear is swinging right, you turn right, and vice versa. Just know when to stop coutnersteering, or you'll snap back the other direction and spin the other way.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by glamcem

exactly, one thing to add, you may also want to practice squeezing the gas pedal as you open the steering wheel to gain better exit speed, it's like allocating those inputs/percentages more efficiently (reducing the turning input in other words opening and simultaneously increasing the speed).. it will become a habit after a while..effects of failure to do this even more dramatic with a high horsepower car (such as a V8 sports car) so if you're not really careful or patient with your input, it'll bite your as$

But, but but... I just stay WOT...

(To the newer guys, don't do this)

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by ZionsWrath

When you are swapping between track and street pads and have to compress the piston, are you opening the bleed screw? If so are you bleeding the brakes a bit after?

How will I know when rotors need replacement? Do I measure them or will it be obvious through braking feel and/or physical appearance?

Just push in the pistons by hand. Don't open anything.

If you're tracking with race pads, replace the rotors when the microfractures get big enough to make you notice.

From the CSG FB page:

[RehabJeff86]

Originally Posted by becauseracecar1

I did my first trackday about month ago and it was awesome. My car was 100% stock. Now I'm getting ready for my second track day at Homestead (now with race pads)!!

Thanks to @CSG Mike I have a better idea of how to adjust my tire pressures so I think I'll definitely play around with that.

Here are some videos of my first track day. Any advice on how to improve my driving there?
Thank you!!

Also a big thanks to everyone that responds to all the questions in this thread, it's a huge help and very much appreciated!!

Fast Lap:

In Car video @ about 4:20 you can see me lose the car a little

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Sorry a lil off topic, i use RaceRender for track video, wonder wut r u using cuz i really like the turn number and cornering speed on ur track vid!