High power short blocks

[jeepmor]

Does anyone know the secret of IAG short blocks?

They buy new case halves, modify the oiling system and put in new pistons with a slight overbore for a quieter engine as they put it.

But they still list a stock crank and fail to mention any rod selection.

Am I looking at some creative machine/dremel work on the oil system and a set of Skunk rods they won't advertise? I don't think they can put this engine together with Carillo rods for the prices they're asking. But to me, this looks like a rod change, ball stone dremel work and new pistons with maybe a tighter spec than new. Up to 600 bhp until they close the deck.

What gives, stock crank must be steel forged already? I know it doesn't need bored out to produce those kind of numbers. Without seeing one up close, guessing Skunk brand rods, bore out and major markups.

I'm investigating a 350-450 hp commuter build. Commuter in the regards I want it to stay street-able for parking lot freeway traffic in and out of the clutch adnauseum commuting.

It'd be much cheaper than a Cayman 2.5 turbo'd or above where I'd like to be. And would skip the Porsche cost of ownership issues.

[NoHaveMSG]

I thought our stock cranks are forged but I am not completely sure. According to their website they have some pretty stout CNC machines, they are a big name and have been around a while. I don't believe you are getting a dremel job.

I am guessing they are manley rods as that is what they sell already. I thought I remember them being manley before.

[DarkPira7e]

Stock crank appears plenty stout, best not to introduce variance where it is proven not to be needed.

For the lower spec blocks, I asked about what rods they are using and their reply was "IAG spec H Beam" so I am assuming Manley or something similar. If you go up in " stages" they use name brand rods.
I didn't really look mine over comparatively to see what they did to improve oiling, if they actually did anything. The car runs great and is definitely less noisy than my previous few stock blocks, but I am attributing that to properly shimmed valves and careful assembly.

[jeepmor]

Thanks for the input, really appreciate actual owner positive feedback. I checked out their site a bit and agree oiling changes aren't dremel work. I was pretty silly on that one, but still don't know what that is on the block.

I thought our stock cranks would have to be beyond basic for the rpm range, but really never knew what went into the aftermarket blocks parts wise except new rods. I'm impressed seeing these handle that much juice. I haven't even started looking at the turbo or supercharger side of putting something like this together yet.

Do any superchargers out there reach the 450 hp level in this FA20 platform?

More reading to do. This is a research exercise at the moment as I really don't want to part with this car, just keep improving and keep it street-able as it is a commuter. And replacing the motor if it goes is still much lower cost than any new car I'd choose to buy. I'd buy another first gen, probably a BRZ next time, or a Cayman turbo if I did choose a Porsche.

[jeepmor]

Originally Posted by DarkPira7e

Stock crank appears plenty stout, best not to introduce variance where it is proven not to be needed.

What power level are you running?

I'm currently running an HKS GT2 with the HKS tune tablet on gas with stock block. Been great so far, no codes, but probably 250 bhp. Been on the car a year, about 15-20k miles. Starting to want more power, 400 bhp is the new goal for research. Prefer to stay away from E85, but it'll have to roll in there being it will require more injector flow. It'd turn into an Ecutek racerom package with multiple tunes on tap is the current thinking.