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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain.


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Old 06-17-2014, 07:08 PM   #169
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So weird! Seals don't look bad at all


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Old 06-17-2014, 11:51 PM   #170
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Seals look ok. One of the reasons I pulled mine I had massive popping noise at around 4000-5000rpm. But I was running one of Perrins more agressive maps with agressive ignition/cam timing which did have some knock and quirks which I never ran again after.

My seals were ok and I went back to the base less agressive map and never had issues again.
You get the experience of pulling injectors, replacing seals and piece of mind. Its possible you may just have bad coils or the tuning needs to be dialed back.
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Old 06-19-2014, 07:11 PM   #171
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At this point I suspect the following: 1) I was running a custom map for aftermarket headers and put the OEM ones back on without reverting to the previous map. 2) Bill has posted that there were misfire issues with the 8.58 map above 4.5K RPM, and he has an updated map. I'm putting the new seals on the DI units tonight, and will be bolting everything else back up this weekend. Hopefully I'll get the new revised tune from Bill as well. Fingers crossed it'll run fine once I'm done.
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Old 06-20-2014, 01:19 AM   #172
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Originally Posted by whataboutbob View Post
At this point I suspect the following: 1) I was running a custom map for aftermarket headers and put the OEM ones back on without reverting to the previous map. 2) Bill has posted that there were misfire issues with the 8.58 map above 4.5K RPM, and he has an updated map. I'm putting the new seals on the DI units tonight, and will be bolting everything else back up this weekend. Hopefully I'll get the new revised tune from Bill as well. Fingers crossed it'll run fine once I'm done.

You should be fine, just keep your eyes out for fuel leaks. Hopefully its just tuning issues and you had misfires.
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Old 06-21-2014, 01:24 AM   #173
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It is back together now. Waiting on a tune file before I start it up again.

I took a few photos and made some notes while I was doing the seals. Ended up destroying the seals on the 1st and 3rd injectors on the first attempt. Luckily I had ordered a total of 8 seals so I still have 2 extras even after finishing all of the DI units.

Thanks for making the video, it helped me understand what I needed to do.
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Old 06-21-2014, 01:52 AM   #174
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It is back together now. Waiting on a tune file before I start it up again.

I took a few photos and made some notes while I was doing the seals. Ended up destroying the seals on the 1st and 3rd injectors on the first attempt. Luckily I had ordered a total of 8 seals so I still have 2 extras even after finishing all of the DI units.

Thanks for making the video, it helped me understand what I needed to do.
Glad it helped, doing the seals suck no way around it. I have Bills tune for the Vortech as well and went back to Perrin for now until it matures a bit more.
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Old 07-13-2014, 07:35 PM   #175
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I may have missed it, but do any reputable companies currently offer upgraded seals for the FA20?
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Old 07-13-2014, 09:30 PM   #176
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I may have missed it, but do any reputable companies currently offer upgraded seals for the FA20?
autofactory.jp

http://www.autofactory.jp/product/to...&cate=6&seq=34

Someone should contact a US vendor and Company 23(to make the tool) and release this as a package.
http://www.company23.com/

How are the race teams combating this via tuning?

http://www.tune86.com/ft-86-news/298...ce-nurburgring

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10 days before the race the team realized they had a common problem these cars tend to have - after racing for longer periods the direct injector seals detoriate as the stock ECU map is quite harsh in its first revisions. The only option was to quickly get a race spec ecu map from Swiss GT86 team.
Now the team is ready, passed some practice runs and two qualifying runs! In the morning another qualification run and then the race starts and goes till Sunday!

Last edited by illmatic; 07-14-2014 at 12:59 PM. Reason: direct link and more info to ponder..
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Old 08-12-2014, 12:05 PM   #177
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anyone else have all #2 injectors?
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Old 08-13-2014, 05:19 PM   #178
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I'm surprised this is still going on. I have a 2012 build and haven't been keeping up with this issue. Is there a "fix" yet?
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Old 08-22-2014, 09:55 AM   #179
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I replaced My seals in the dealer and the popping returned after 3 days
I replaced it again after a few months wiht aftermarket seals and the came back again
I plan to replace the DIS injectors next and I hope it gets fixed

The Car is Heavily Tracked in Time attacks usually no more than 10 minutes per session.

I hope this thing gets solved!







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Old 10-02-2014, 12:45 PM   #180
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Originally Posted by Margovincent_22x View Post
I replaced My seals in the dealer and the popping returned after 3 days
I replaced it again after a few months wiht aftermarket seals and the came back again
I plan to replace the DIS injectors next and I hope it gets fixed

The Car is Heavily Tracked in Time attacks usually no more than 10 minutes per session.

I hope this thing gets solved!







What tuning are you running? What RPM is your redline set to?
Are you running any type of oil cooler and what oil?
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Old 10-03-2014, 12:14 AM   #181
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Originally Posted by Dezoris View Post
What tuning are you running? What RPM is your redline set to?
Are you running any type of oil cooler and what oil?
This is my History,

-after 6months stock I tuned it with ECUTECH for XCS 95 Fuel
-after 1 year from tune I got Popping in ~ 15k miles, Used heavily in track for time attack
-replaces Seals at SUBARU Dealer
-After 3 days UN-TUNED Popping again while using BLAZE 100 Fuel
-Replaced to FUNNY JDM seals at a local SHOP then TUNED
-after 1 month Popping again while using Vpower racing 97 Fuel
-Replaced INJECTORS to new ones
-Still haven't tracked it ever since but will track it maybe next month.

REDLINE 7800 RPM tuned 7400 Un-tuned
Cusco Cooler
Koyo Rad
REDLINE 5w30 and 5w40 depending on oil pressure

Ambient Temperature 33-38 deg. C
Max Oil Temp 132 deg. C With Cooler and 150 deg. C with out cooler
Max Water Temp 98 deg. C With KoyoRad 112 deg. C with Out
Average Track Time 10 Minutes Hot Laps

FUEL:
Shell Vpower Nitro Plus Racing 97 Oct 10% ethanol PHILIPPINES Ver.
Petron Blace Euro4 100 Oct Philippine Ver.
Perton XCS 95 Oct 10% Ethanol Philippines Ver.






Images From http://www.tunedph.com/eyes-prize-et...uddy-club-brz#

Last edited by Margovincent_22x; 10-03-2014 at 12:29 AM.
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Old 10-03-2014, 12:46 PM   #182
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Margovincent_22x View Post
This is my History,

-after 6months stock I tuned it with ECUTECH for XCS 95 Fuel
-after 1 year from tune I got Popping in ~ 15k miles, Used heavily in track for time attack
-replaces Seals at SUBARU Dealer
-After 3 days UN-TUNED Popping again while using BLAZE 100 Fuel
-Replaced to FUNNY JDM seals at a local SHOP then TUNED
-after 1 month Popping again while using Vpower racing 97 Fuel
-Replaced INJECTORS to new ones
-Still haven't tracked it ever since but will track it maybe next month.

REDLINE 7800 RPM tuned 7400 Un-tuned
Cusco Cooler
Koyo Rad
REDLINE 5w30 and 5w40 depending on oil pressure

Ambient Temperature 33-38 deg. C
Max Oil Temp 132 deg. C With Cooler and 150 deg. C with out cooler
Max Water Temp 98 deg. C With KoyoRad 112 deg. C with Out
Average Track Time 10 Minutes Hot Laps

FUEL:
Shell Vpower Nitro Plus Racing 97 Oct 10% ethanol PHILIPPINES Ver.
Petron Blace Euro4 100 Oct Philippine Ver.
Perton XCS 95 Oct 10% Ethanol Philippines Ver.



Images From http://www.tunedph.com/eyes-prize-et...uddy-club-brz#
Good info.
If you are killing seals that fast I would make two assumptions:

1. You have knock or misfiring which could be related to tuning or mechanical issues.
(Have you pulled your plugs and coils yet for inspection)

2. Most tuners are getting higher RPM and power by leaning on DI for fueling.
(Are you logging these time attacks to look for potential issues with tuning?)

3. What oil pressure are you seeing at 7000-7800RPM at 132C Oil Temp?

By no means am I assuming to know your issue, just offering suggestions.
Replace plugs and coils. Back off the RPM, drop to (7300-7400) check to see load on DI system at high RPM.

132C is too hot for 5w30 and likely 5w40. 10w40 or a straight 40wt will keep pressures up closer to 50PSI at 7000RPM. At 7800 you are absolutely pressing your luck.
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