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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous |
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09-08-2013, 10:00 AM | #15 | |
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09-08-2013, 02:48 PM | #16 |
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It is a simple fact that on all FI cars with an intercooler, all the air going through the front of the car needs to go through the intercooler, then AC and then the radiator to provide enough cooling. The RA BRZ in Japan has no AC unit, so had no issues running for multiple 20 minute sessions (an entire days worth) on the stock radiator. But that's also because when we did the install Ross made sure every hole was blocked off, using aluminum and black race tape, and hard rubber pushed up against the bumper. This is to force the air to go through the intercooler/radiator, and It's why we insist on people keeping the bumper undercover and side diverters in place. Subaru spent a lot of time and money making those guides, and we are sure it's for a very good reason. We've seen too many installs where those parts were not fitted back (possibly for some kits because they couldn't be fit anymore), and would not be surprised if that's the reason for cooling issues.
A larger radiator only delays the time it takes for water temps to get too hot if there is not enough air flowing through it for it to cool it down. In our track testing we had the problem at 200+ km (125+ mph) where we would get a rise in temp every time we hit the long straights, then it would cool down when we go through the slower corners. At those speeds we suspect the air is not getting pushed through the front of the car effectively, this is why we are working on a front splitter (photo work in progress). ** Our advice is for track use, the first step is to block every possible exit path for air running to the radiator to make sure it is being used to cool the radiator. On high speed tracks, you will probably need a front splitter to get the air in there. Alway run a good engine oil (AVO Turboworld will have FA20 turbo specific oil released at SEMA show). And most off all, on track days run the best possible gas, any detonation will cause heat in the engine and make the engine run hot. |
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09-08-2013, 09:51 PM | #17 |
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The AVO kit is pretty good. Keeping the lower engine covers on adds to stationary heatsoak on IAT (getting up towards 60c on hot days). But IAT drops rapidly back towards ambient on take off. Hood vents and insulation delete would probably bring this a good 10c lower.
On the track without any cooling upgrades you're looking at 105c + coolant and 130c + oil temps. With uprated radiator your coolant temp can drop back to 90-105 range. With a decent oil cooler your oil temp can drop back to 115-125 range. An air-oil cooler like a mocal solution will add a considerable amount of heat soak on it's own, from the ~5m of lines that will radiate ~100c of heat when the car is on a run. The rubberised avo hoses don't help at isolating temps from the FMIC so I am thinking about re-routing or thermal wrapping some of those areas to avoid any efficiency issues on the cooler on long runs above about 110c oil. nix Edit.. realised I didn't answer OP's question. I'm using a Koyo radiator with oem hoses/cap and the FBM 19 row Mocal core & sandwich plate oil cooler kit.
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09-08-2013, 10:20 PM | #18 |
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This is why I think the robispec system is the best because the water system is what keeps the oil temps in check, and it eliminates the extra air blockage in front of the radiator and AC cooler all in one swoop.
Now if we could just get the robispec parts we ordered and installed, we'd be all good. Graphs show they work very well on track usage on keeping both water and oil temps in check. Some sort of hood vent or air vent to let hot air out of the engine compartment would help a lot too I think. |
09-09-2013, 11:00 AM | #19 | |
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I would rather let the radiator do its thing and let my oil cooler cool the oil. I do wish we had some more data on how well a vented hood helps.
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