SPC Camber Bolt Issue

[SportInjected]

I was able to achieve -2 with oem crash bolts in the top holes and spc kit in the lower holes. No slippage that I've detected, and I get my alignment specs checked after every event pretty much. Just an FYI.

[Bimble Bamble]

Is this the correct procedure?
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!

1- Loosen top oem bolt
2 - Remove botttom bolt and replace with SPC bolt (SPC part # 81305)
3 - Remove top bolt and replace with bottom oem bolt

Are you pushing in the suspension towards the car re-tightening bolts?

[venturaII]

Originally Posted by Patrick_B

Is this the correct procedure?
Someone please correct me if I'm wrong. Thanks!

1- Loosen top oem bolt
2 - Remove botttom bolt and replace with SPC bolt (SPC part # 81305)
3 - Remove top bolt and replace with bottom oem bolt

Are you pushing in the suspension towards the car re-tightening bolts?

The instructions from SPC did not include swapping the OEM bottom bolt into the top hole. Some forum members have done this on their own, others have swapped just the location for the SPC eccentric bolt, all with varying degrees of success, but all seemingly better than the SPC instructions.

[twag4]

I installed spc camber bolts last night exactly by the instructions. I got it aligned today with both fronts at -1.5 degrees.

[breadcrumbz]

Originally Posted by twag4

I installed spc camber bolts last night exactly by the instructions. I got it aligned today with both fronts at -1.5 degrees.

Did you push the hub in before tightening? I think that was my problem. Been too lazy to fix it haha.

[twag4]

I did, but at the alignment shop they make all adjustments with the car on the rack. The car sits on all four wheels. The suspension is at full squat- making it automatically want to go negative on camber. The tires sit on plates that move fore/aft, left/right, and yaw. It takes care of itself. I'm lowered an inch, and when I first had the car alligned they did not install the camber bolts. I supplied them to them, but they thought zero camber was good, so they chose not to install them. That was december. I finally had enough of zero camber and zero feel in the steering wheel and had it remedied. It was a great move, steering feels great again. Vagueness gone!

[lutfy]

Folks bringing up an old thread. Trying to obtain data since... Intend to use two SPC bolts on both ends, checking to see if there has been adverse effect (slippage or bolt breakage). Goal is to get to -2.5 with an inch drop in place. Did the crash bolt only and the car still plows on the track. Got just a degree

Lutfy

[churchx]

lutfy: I got one top crash bolt break on me, but it could be due too late noticed wheel bolts slightly undone after wheel change yet still keeping tracking, not re-tightening them as i should.
As for slipping .. people sometimes use paint to prevent such. It extra glues/holds bolts in place, and is often used with something that may slip much more, eg. if you slot your struts for more camber. It's hack, but it works
"two SPC bolts on both ends" .. camberbolts are already smaller in diameter then stock to allow play for adjustment. Use proper 16mm camberbolt on top hole, and 14mm camberbolt in lower hole. I wouldn't risk using 14mm camberbolts at both.
With whiteline's KCA416 16mm camberbolt top & SPC 81305 14mm camberbolt bottom, at stock hight i got -2.2. Not exactly your aimed -2.5, but imho a bit safer then SPC 81305 at both holes.
P.S.
To lessen understeer on track (and get better more even tire wear) of course right way would be to add neg. camber on end that needs more grip, front that is. But as there is limit how much camberbolts can help, there is option of removing grip on other end too, to get wished grip bias. As many advised, i'm running by 0.5deg camber less (-1.7) in rear and find that doing exactly that, changing grip balance more to my liking with stock.
In ideal world there would be also whiteline's com-c offset rubber top mounts to go along camberbolts for extra camber, but unfortunately they didn't manage to fix bearing failures thus delisted twins as compatible with those. So if you need camber more then what is provided by camberbolts in both holes, there are only two options - slotting struts or camberplates (unfortunately in absence of com-c only pillowball ones). Also, if you lower your car, it will naturaly gain negative camber too. -2.5 camber should be easy to get with camberbolts in both holes for cars with lowering springs.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by churchx

lutfy: I got one top crash bolt break on me, but it could be due too late noticed wheel bolts slightly undone after wheel change yet still keeping tracking, not re-tightening them as i should.
As for slipping .. people sometimes use paint to prevent such. It extra glues/holds bolts in place, and is often used with something that may slip much more, eg. if you slot your struts for more camber. It's hack, but it works
"two SPC bolts on both ends" .. camberbolts are already smaller in diameter then stock to allow play for adjustment. Use proper 16mm camberbolt on top hole, and 14mm camberbolt in lower hole. I wouldn't risk using 14mm camberbolts at both.
With whiteline's KCA416 16mm camberbolt top & SPC 81305 14mm camberbolt bottom, at stock hight i got -2.2. Not exactly your aimed -2.5, but imho a bit safer then SPC 81305 at both holes.
P.S.
To lessen understeer on track (and get better more even tire wear) of course right way would be to add neg. camber on end that needs more grip, front that is. But as there is limit how much camberbolts can help, there is option of removing grip on other end too, to get wished grip bias. As many advised, i'm running by 0.5deg camber less (-1.7) in rear and find that doing exactly that, changing grip balance more to my liking with stock.
In ideal world there would be also whiteline's com-c offset rubber top mounts to go along camberbolts for extra camber, but unfortunately they didn't manage to fix bearing failures thus delisted twins as compatible with those. So if you need camber more then what is provided by camberbolts in both holes, there are only two options - slotting struts or camberplates (unfortunately in absence of com-c only pillowball ones). Also, if you lower your car, it will naturaly gain negative camber too. -2.5 camber should be easy to get with camberbolts in both holes for cars with lowering springs.

Excellent info and thank you so much! Agree with adjusting for grip, however the rear end as of now is piinned. I cannot lift throttle oversteer in most places and forget about power on oversteer So need to get as much bite in the front as I can.

Last question, instead of using the Whiteline 16mm on the top, I have the stock bottom bolt (which is the OEM crash bolt) up top of now. Will I gain a tad more camber (all things equal meaning running SPC in the bottom for both- be installing the SPC bolts soon, currently have the crash bolt or bottom bolts on both ends)?

Cheers!

Lutfy

[churchx]

OEM "crash bolt" is normal 14mm bolt originally intended for lower hole. People use it as "free camber bolt" reusing it in upper hole, but i'd prefer something like Whiteline's 16mm one due: 1) camberbolts are rather cheap, 2) they should be of similar strength (both are thinner in narrowest part, probably by similar amount, but camberbolts have extra eccentric tab on side + specific washers) but 3) unlike normal bolts like OEM one, they are simpler to adjust and have small teeths to lessen chance of slipping.

I'm guessing that there might be similar total camber to get with SPC bottom + OE top (haven't tried it) but for reasons above i'd probably buy real camberbolt.

If one is willing to mod stock struts, then imho best way for camber would be slotting them + welding in some material/spacer, so one can keep using full strength normal bolts in non slipping normal holes in struts but simply placed now at offset position for there to be negative camber of wished amount.

Some aftermarket coilovers already have slotted mount holes, but that is a bit more expensive upgrade vs plain camberbolts.

As for not being able to put well power to road - try slight toe-in rear. My current alignment (with cambolts in both holes front & SPC lca-s rear) is -2.2 front, -1.7 rear, zero toe front, -0.1 rear. Camber helps with more grip in curves, self stabilizing toe-in helps with allowing opening throttle sooner. Just remember not going overboard with toe. Camber is not accelerating tire wear so much as toe is. Also some advise this for more stable rear.

[wparsons]

For anyone having trouble getting the camber they want with the lobed bolts, make sure not only the bolt, but the tabbed washer, is in the correct orientation. If you don't move the washer and just rotate the bolt you won't get as much adjustment range.

[lutfy]

Originally Posted by churchx

OEM "crash bolt" is normal 14mm bolt originally intended for lower hole. People use it as "free camber bolt" reusing it in upper hole, but i'd prefer something like Whiteline's 16mm one due: 1) camberbolts are rather cheap, 2) they should be of similar strength (both are thinner in narrowest part, probably by similar amount, but camberbolts have extra eccentric tab on side + specific washers) but 3) unlike normal bolts like OEM one, they are simpler to adjust and have small teeths to lessen chance of slipping.

I'm guessing that there might be similar total camber to get with SPC bottom + OE top (haven't tried it) but for reasons above i'd probably buy real camberbolt.

If one is willing to mod stock struts, then imho best way for camber would be slotting them + welding in some material/spacer, so one can keep using full strength normal bolts in non slipping normal holes in struts but simply placed now at offset position for there to be negative camber of wished amount.

Some aftermarket coilovers already have slotted mount holes, but that is a bit more expensive upgrade vs plain camberbolts.

As for not being able to put well power to road - try slight toe-in rear. My current alignment (with cambolts in both holes front & SPC lca-s rear) is -2.2 front, -1.7 rear, zero toe front, -0.1 rear. Camber helps with more grip in curves, self stabilizing toe-in helps with allowing opening throttle sooner. Just remember not going overboard with toe. Camber is not accelerating tire wear so much as toe is. Also some advise this for more stable rear.

Good stuff. Cheers mate!!

Regarding the traction mod, interesting read, have reached out.... what I meant to say was I cannot induce power oversteer and the car WILL understeer out of the corners if I give it full throttle. Granted I have stock (except for TRD lowering springs) suspension so cannot tune much will want to get a reasonable amount of camber in place first (in the front as I am wearing the outside).....

Will attempt to install the SPC bolt at the bottom this weekend.

Regards,

Lutfy

[DHitHim]

I'll be installing SPC-81305 this week! I'm going to try out the bottom holes first. I have vorshlag camber plates too.

[lutfy]

Got these installed. Had major issues with those tabbed washers.
The. Lots won't go through as all. Later just installed the bolts straight with marking on the bolt (when the hub started to get max outwards for meg camber, held it there and tightened the nut to spec torque.

Anyone else had issues with the washers?

Cheers.

Lutfy