Car clicks but won't crank. Battery or Starter?

[JERM^]

Thanks guys. So 2 days went by again, clicked once. Rest of the time started up all fine. Next time I am stuck, I'll get the multimeter out.

Thanks guys for all the help!

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by JERM^

So I don't have longer leads, I don't know where the starter connections are, and I have no friend.

GG I'm screwed.

No problem. Just get an extension cord, strip the wires bare on each end. Have a person, preferably not a friend, sit inside the car with the bare leads of one end gripped by his/her teeth and one hand on the metal frame of the car.

Find the starter (it's at the end of the big wire coming off the battery). Touch the other end of the extension cord to that post ....... have your assistant push the start button. If they scream ...... your battery and cable connections are OK. If they don't scream, your starter is shot.

Got it ......


humfrz

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by Tcoat

The starter connections are on the starter. Lower passenger side of the car at the bell housing. Don't need a meter to check the connections but certainly will to check the voltage reaching it.
Drive down to London and will be your friend and help check it out. I do have long leads for my meter.
Yes Ultra I actually still have a meter.
No Hum it is solid state not a tube set.

Go ahead, @JERM^ .....I'm sure ol Tcoat has a volt meter and some wiring to test your starting system .......


humfrz

[HappyRobot]

Just wanted to add a recent experience to this thread.

I purchased a new battery to replace the original Panasonic battery (car is 2013 FRS with ~73,000 miles). After replacing the battery, the car would not start and would click similar to the video. Electronics worked, but the starter would not engage. I tried a bunch of things, checking fuses, cleaning terminals, and letting the car sit before starting it up. AAA finally came and diagnosed that the battery was defective. Before they jumped it, it was at 10 volts, it jumped up to 12 when running, but dropped to 6 volts after they attempted to start the car without a jump. I did not expect a brand new battery to be faulty. My guess is that the clicking means that most of the electronics seem to work (no issues with the immobilizer or clutch sensor), but don't rule out battery issues before assuming it might be the starter.

Brand new battery.....gosh.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by HappyRobot

Just wanted to add a recent experience to this thread.

I purchased a new battery to replace the original Panasonic battery (car is 2013 FRS with ~73,000 miles). After replacing the battery, the car would not start and would click similar to the video. Electronics worked, but the starter would not engage. I tried a bunch of things, checking fuses, cleaning terminals, and letting the car sit before starting it up. AAA finally came and diagnosed that the battery was defective. Before they jumped it, it was at 10 volts, it jumped up to 12 when running, but dropped to 6 volts after they attempted to start the car without a jump. I did not expect a brand new battery to be faulty. My guess is that the clicking means that most of the electronics seem to work (no issues with the immobilizer or clutch sensor), but don't rule out battery issues before assuming it might be the starter.

Brand new battery.....gosh.

Of all the things you can buy that can be defective car batteries are at about the top of the list. Their very nature is subject to defects that are detected until you try to use them. I have had a couple of bad ones over the years.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by HappyRobot

Just wanted to add a recent experience to this thread.


Brand new battery.....gosh.

Good heads up post, there, HappyRobot -

Yep, back in the day, when a clerk would pull a auto battery off the shelf and dust it off for me to buy, I would request that he check the fluid level and "load test" the damn battery before I would buy it.

That comes with "buyer beware" life experiences.

Like, back in the day, down in Mexico, when a little kid would come up to you and say "hey, meester, you want to fuck my seester, she is a virgin?"





humfrz

[_keepkushin_]

hey so i recently had a problem in this manner. car ended up shutting up after hitting 137 ish on the freeway codes came up as p0345 p0340 p0198 and a few other. i have had the 345 and 340 codes pop up before due to me snapping all 8 of the flywheel bolts clean while under load with a stage 3 clutch. problem was that the crank sensor wasn't reading crank plate rotation. sense then i have fixed the issue involving crank plate and codes along with the bolts. but back to the issue, so i originally thought i snapped my flywheel bolts again cause the problem once again sounded the same as it did in previous issue, but during further inspection i noticed nothing wrong with the flywheel or bolts but i think the problem came about due to a bad cam sensor which i have tested all the sensors and harness for power, ground and also continuity all good my scanner wasn't seeing anymore problems to throw code but still same problem i would go to start and just get a loud knock like something wasnty engaging.... starter was my last option but i i decided to make usre nothing on my block or harness melted. so i ended up taking my starterout and doing a mild bench test with an old battery and a jumper connected to the battery due to it dying while trying to figure out this problem. so my buddy took apart my started and noticed that it was melted which provented it from spinning after kickout. cleaned it and know i have no click no start no crank, i hear fuel prime and i just don't hear starter signal anymore. so today i ordered a new starter, also got a code for the engine oil temperature sensor low which mean that it has a hot reading if what i have read up on is correct if im wrong please inform me... so rn im facing a bad eot sensor and just waiting for the new starter to get here and see if i have any problems that exsist i have yet to discover. all this over a 6 month peroid. only thing i installed was a underbrace. next im going to wraap my skunk2 uel headers. to keep the heat down cause im pretty sure the heat was the original bandit. also did a oil change sense i had to drank the oil anyways to replace the driverside lower camshaft posistion sensor and bought and installed new oil filter. also lookied into the tune i am currently running on my 13 brz limited... and noticed that max speed is that when the car had soft shutdown which is 137 wondering if the values might have caused or been a part of this. i am open to all suggestions

[Tcoat]

My god that was the hardest thing to read I have ever seen. I am still not even sure what the issue is after three attempts to get through it so can't help at all beyond make sure the ground wire is bolted securely to the bell housing.

[Impureclient]

Also, don't kill anybody.

[soundman98]

ithinkyourproblemmightbeinthegroundwirethatattache satthebellhousingwhatareyoutalkingaboutmyeyesarefi ne