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Forced Induction Turbo, Supercharger, Methanol, Nitrous


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Old 05-05-2016, 03:23 PM   #3403
asnatlas
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Originally Posted by uRBAN_Metal View Post
You realize the drift bar replaces the factory bumper beam, right? It's less "insurance" and more of a compromise of the structural integrity of your car in the even of a collision.
Yes I understand that the Drift Bar replaces the stock bumper. The stock bumper is designed to "crumple" which would direct damage into the engine bay. The Drift Bar is designed for "protection". Just like a roll cage is designed to protect the driver. This is designed to protect the front of your car / engine.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:36 PM   #3404
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I was looking at picking up a Front Drift Bar from http://www.driftarmor.com/about.html. When I was looking at the JRSC install PDF (page 13 and 14) it looks like you use at least one screw to mount the top left of the inter-cooler to the front bumper. If I got the Front Drift Bar would I run into any issues? Without it being in front of me I can't see what might be needed to fabricate something to secure that top mount of the inter-cooler to the Drift Bar.
You'd need to figure out a way to secure the intercooler/oil cooler(s) assembly.
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Old 05-05-2016, 03:37 PM   #3405
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Yes I understand that the Drift Bar replaces the stock bumper. The stock bumper is designed to "crumple" which would direct damage into the engine bay. The Drift Bar is designed for "protection". Just like a roll cage is designed to protect the driver. This is designed to protect the front of your car / engine.
The stock impact beam crumbles to save your chassis. That's the whole point. Your repair bill will be much larger without one, and plus, insurance should be covering everythign anyways, unless you're self-insured.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:03 AM   #3406
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Thanks all. The BRZ is not a DD, and will be used on the track and AutoX. It's not 100% "race" but my luck if / when something were to happen it would be off the track. I will hold off on the drift bars for now
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:17 AM   #3407
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I had another question. I was looking at getting the Track Engine Oil Cooler Kit. Now I am debating on the Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler. I plan on attending some track days and AutoX sessions, but nothing hard core extreme (dedicated). I will also get the car out on the weekends when weather permits.
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:33 AM   #3408
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From talking to different people who track/autocross and reading some articles, it appears that the engine oil cooler would be highly recommended. The cars have not be designed from the cooling side to handle the stresses from running them in the above environments.

I have one on my car and there is a slight difference in temperature between highway cruising and a session on the track. On the gauge, the equivalent of a thicknesses of a normal piece of spaghetti
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Old 05-06-2016, 11:58 AM   #3409
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Since you'll be running FI (more hp = more heat) I'd go for the traditional cooler over the dual unit.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:05 PM   #3410
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That is what I was thinking, going with the Track Engine Oil Cooler Kit and upgrading the radiator and fans in the future.
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:33 PM   #3411
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Originally Posted by asnatlas View Post
I had another question. I was looking at getting the Track Engine Oil Cooler Kit. Now I am debating on the Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler. I plan on attending some track days and AutoX sessions, but nothing hard core extreme (dedicated). I will also get the car out on the weekends when weather permits.
The Radiator/Oil Cooler actually sounds like the better option for you. The Radiator/Oil Cooler will handle what you will be doing with ease. We designed this unit for customers just like you!

-Jackson Racing Staff
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Old 05-06-2016, 12:45 PM   #3412
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The Radiator/Oil Cooler actually sounds like the better option for you. The Radiator/Oil Cooler will handle what you will be doing with ease. We designed this unit for customers just like you!

-Jackson Racing Staff
So where is the "upgrade point" when someone would need the Track Engine Oil Cooler Kit over the Dual Radiator/Oil Cooler ?
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:27 PM   #3413
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Wondering if anyone here can help be out. I had my JRSC C38 kit installed at a local shop in march. When idling it makes a mild squeaking noise that to me sounds like a belt issue. It becomes more noticeable after the engine has warmed up while stoped at traffic lights. Talked to the people at the shop and they insist it is the "supercharger whine" but to me it sounds separate. The belt shifts slightly back and forth on the idler pulley that directly follows the tensioner pulley and now the pully itself has started to wobble. When the engine is in idling the tensioner moves quite a bit and slightly erratically but calms down with increased rpm. Any suggestions that could help a new guy out?
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Old 05-06-2016, 05:35 PM   #3414
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Wondering if anyone here can help be out. I had my JRSC C38 kit installed at a local shop in march. When idling it makes a mild squeaking noise that to me sounds like a belt issue. It becomes more noticeable after the engine has warmed up while stoped at traffic lights. Talked to the people at the shop and they insist it is the "supercharger whine" but to me it sounds separate. The belt shifts slightly back and forth on the idler pulley that directly follows the tensioner pulley and now the pully itself has started to wobble. When the engine is in idling the tensioner moves quite a bit and slightly erratically but calms down with increased rpm. Any suggestions that could help a new guy out?
Check the bolt that holds that pulley on, and make sure it is tight.
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Old 05-06-2016, 06:51 PM   #3415
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CSG Mike View Post
Check the bolt that holds that pulley on, and make sure it is tight.
It is on tight enough that I cannot tighten it anymore with out a longer wrench. Could it be the pully bearing or alignment? I have a video close up of both of the pulleys with the sounds. But it is too big to attach to a post. I can post it elsewhere and link it if you think it will help.

Last edited by SlipperyBastard; 05-06-2016 at 07:42 PM.
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Old 05-06-2016, 08:17 PM   #3416
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It is on tight enough that I cannot tighten it anymore with out a longer wrench. Could it be the pully bearing or alignment? I have a video close up of both of the pulleys with the sounds. But it is too big to attach to a post. I can post it elsewhere and link it if you think it will help.
Can you post a video?
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