Oh-Oh's, I Think I Broke It!

[Sportsguy83]

Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83

As for your second quote where I said I bet he was running super thick oil I was assuming he may be running 10w40 (because I have had people come into my dealership requesting to use their own oil which was 10w40). And for your next quote I never said they trained us telling us that 5w30 was too thick. You must have missed my other post or didn't want to quote that Idk.

... I NEVER implied you said "training taught us 5w30 is too thick". I just asked you directly if you knew something more than we all could know because of your training since you thought 5w30 is too thick... That's all I was asking, not more, not less.

At this point I will just assume that no, there is nothing in your training with which to conclude 5w30 is too thick.

[OrbitalEllipses]

This thread is about pcasso's engine, not 20valve's training (or lack thereof depending on the poster). Let's keep it that way folks.

[20valvewynn83]

Originally Posted by Sportsguy83

... I NEVER implied you said "training taught us 5w30 is too thick". I just asked you directly if you knew something more than we all could know because of your training since you thought 5w30 is too thick... That's all I was asking, not more, not less.

At this point I will just assume that no, there is nothing in your training with which to conclude 5w30 is too thick.

Since you decided to quote every post I mad ill repost the only one you didn't quote

"Which is fine I'm not knocking anyone choice of oil and I never told anyone which oil to use I just stated my choice. Also training doesn't tell use what oil to use that's up to the customer to decide. When I was referring to training I was backing up my statement of the crank pulley not effecting the check engine light and that it was most likely the VVTI gear. I was also stating that because I know some people were wondering where the crank position sensor was and I said it was on the back on the flywheel side"

[robispec]

everybody LET IT GO...lol enough already.

[carbonBLUE]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

As you said do whatever you want. Subaru and Toyota SUGGEST 5w-30 though for severe usage which likely means their experience (instead of book based training by a corporate trainer) matched my own data that we see low oil pressure with 0w-20, especially when warm and at high RPM. 0w-20 is great for Eco though. Based on my data alone my car will never see 0w-20 again.

ive been running 5w-20 extended mileage every 3k miles since my first oil change

dont have to worry about cold start my garage stays at a nice 55 degrees F at its coldest

Originally Posted by brillo

Why not 0w-30 instead for better cold start protection?

yes

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

And this is a 2L Subaru. 2L WRX was famous for chewing bearings.

yeah but no 2 engines are the same, plus toyota had it's hand in making this engine

the current STI engine can handle about 450whp on the stock block where ours (with higher compression and lower volume can make at least 520 whp without blowing up )

open deck design helps cooling a LOT

Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83

Which is fine I'm not knocking anyone choice of oil and I never told anyone which oil to use I just stated my choice. Also training doesn't tell use what oil to use that's up to the customer to decide. When I was referring to training I was backing up my statement of the crank pulley not effecting the check engine light and that it was most likely the VVTI gear. I was also stating that because I know some people were wondering where the crank position sensor was and I said it was on the back on the flywheel side.

you remind me of the guy who told me 10w40 and 75w90 aren't the same viscosity... tard... is it sarcasm? maybe?....... are you intelligent? maybe?....

Originally Posted by 20valvewynn83

First off I take it you didn't read my original post but ill help you. "If anything one of the VVTI came gears are damaged. Maybe you are using thicker oil then recommended and debre is in your oil blocking the passages" never did I say the oil caused the issue. The oil can have debree in it which I was implying thicker oil can cause slower flow threw the screen mesh filter for the VVTI. But in reality I would assume its a faulty gear. All we can do is assume things because we do not have the car hooked up to a scan tool to truly diagnose the vehicle.

just because it threw a code saying "blah blah blah" doesn't mean THAT is what is wrong with the car...

ie. i got a vacuum leak on my other car saying the gas cap wasn't sealing, it ended up being a charcoal canister being clogged up....

i bet one of the plugs fouled, as someone stated before, and it isn't firing at full strength because or contamination of a plug, a oil catch can helps with this but doesn't prevent it

ohh yeah... and...

BE QUIET

FFS... damn..

Originally Posted by pcasso87

I was actually running 225/45/17 BfGoodrich R1'S, great tire but takes a long ass time to get up to temp, i wont go that wide until i go FI. Im sticking with 225-235 for now since im not sure a fatter tire will make this car faster.

Meh, i live in Texas and my car sits in my garage that is insulated with temperature and humidity control all year round. Plus 300v only comes in 5w-30 .

Well guys im off to dynotronics to flash back to stock and from there im making a trip to the dealer. I hope all goes well, ill keep you guys posted.

GOOD LUCK! ask them to check the plugs!

[Gixxersixxerman]

Wow.. Love all the Internet auto techs on here.. Hope the OP gets his car fixed properly, As a ASE tech I know better then throwing out diagnostic ideas based on a short video and a couple codes, like carbon said one code could be caused by a numbers or different problems,

Funny thing, my only track day, after one of my sessions, pulling into the "pits" my engine was sounding like a heavy misfire, had that boxer rumble and all.. Was barely idling, no codes or CEL, after shutting it off and letting it cool, starting up for my next session 40 mins later or so it was hard to start, but once I'd did,it ran fine.. Just every once in awhile it will give that really rough idle.. Luckly my car has not presented any of the problems I have read on here, idle dip or anything.. But maybe four times in the 12k miles I've owned her. She seems to get a little pissy

Please OP, keep us up to date

[OrbitalEllipses]

Originally Posted by carbonBLUE

yeah but no 2 engines are the same, plus toyota had it's hand in making this engine

the current STI engine can handle about 450whp on the stock block where ours (with higher compression and lower volume can make at least 520 whp without blowing up )

open deck design helps cooling a LOT

Very true, but the latest casting of the EJ255/257 series engines have been reported to be weaker than the earlier castings...allegedly. I wouldn't make claims on the power of this engine just because a tuner managed not to blow it up at a ridiculous power level. That's not long-term enough to make that kind of claim IMO.

[carbonBLUE]

Originally Posted by OrbitalEllipses

Very true, but the latest casting of the EJ255/257 series engines have been reported to be weaker than the earlier castings...allegedly. I wouldn't make claims on the power of this engine just because a tuner managed not to blow it up at a ridiculous power level. That's not long-term enough to make that kind of claim IMO.

yeah i understand that, im just saying with faulty sensors and ECU's im surprised 1 hasn't blown up because of a warranty issue lol

or what's the chance that a first year motor had no problem accepting THAT amount of boost, open deck is great for cooling, but at the same time it is a toss up for wall rigitity.

any impurities in the metal could cause the entire cylinder to skew in any direction when under THAT much pressure and heat the only thing holding the cylinder straight is the head and open deck boxer motors are more susceptible for lifting at the heads when under a lot of boost

but if you can pull 540whp at 8.5k rpms... im going to go and say i trust it for at least 400

here's some good examples

FA20 OPEN DECK


EJ20 OPEN DECK (not as open) but more rigid


and for fun EJ25



I STILL SAY A PLUG IS FOULED!!!!

[bakerr6]

Originally Posted by carbonBLUE

yeah i understand that, im just saying with faulty sensors and ECU's im surprised 1 hasn't blown up because of a warranty issue lol

or what's the chance that a first year motor had no problem accepting THAT amount of boost, open deck is great for cooling, but at the same time it is a toss up for wall rigitity.

any impurities in the metal could cause the entire cylinder to skew in any direction when under THAT much pressure and heat the only thing holding the cylinder straight is the head and open deck boxer motors are more susceptible for lifting at the heads when under a lot of boost

but if you can pull 540whp at 8.5k rpms... im going to go and say i trust it for at least 400

here's some good examples

FA20 OPEN DECK


EJ20 OPEN DECK (not as open) but more rigid


and for fun EJ25



I STILL SAY A PLUG IS FOULED!!!!

The first problem with that last pic is that they are trusting a fram filter haha

[SkullWorks]

its clear that engine failed because they used hose clamps that were not factory specified,

[fluffy-reindeer-slayer]

any updates?

[FrX]

Just skimming through the thread...Those images scared me a bit! I wasn't really reading closely and thought they were pcasso87's motor.

[track_warrior]

Ok guys well according to a toyota tech one of my pistons has a huge hole, my ecu could also be faulty which could have caused the engine to fail. I will have more information today or tomorrow. This is extremely weird, i really cant explain it my self. Hopefully the tech will diagnose it better so we can have a better idea as to what failed.

[Chimpo]

Originally Posted by pcasso87

Ok guys well according to a toyota tech one of my pistons has a huge hole, my ecu could also be faulty which could have caused the engine to fail. I will have more information today or tomorrow. This is extremely weird, i really cant explain it my self. Hopefully the tech will diagnose it better so we can have a better idea as to what failed.

OH NO!

Probably your super thick oil mixing with the wrong gas...
/Amiright
//I'llshowmyselfout