04-03-2014, 12:45 PM | #29 | |
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Thanks Dennis! I'm actually going to try this stuff. Just when I thought I was being a troll.. |
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04-03-2014, 02:30 PM | #30 | |
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I tried the Advanced Fuel Economy stuff in the BRZ last oil change. I didn't notice anything better or worse than Royal Purple, Valvoline (quickie lube during a long road trip), or the local Subaru dealership oil. Then again, I don't send my oil in for analysis or anything. |
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The Following User Says Thank You to kuhlka For This Useful Post: | amram (04-28-2014) |
04-03-2014, 02:47 PM | #31 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to kuhlka For This Useful Post: | ZionsWrath (04-03-2014) |
04-04-2014, 03:14 PM | #33 | |
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Just keep in mind, unlike Mobil1 (trying to somewhat keep on topic), Renewable Lube does not have API or ILSAC certifications. Same as Red Line, Motul 300V, or Amsoil Signature Series. That said, you would be in very good hands with RLI and would likely be able to speak to directly to the company president if you had issues. Now where can one find this Mobile1 that some of you speak of? I've only seen Mobil1. Is Mobile1 different oil? -Dennis |
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The Following User Says Thank You to bluesubie For This Useful Post: | evan (04-04-2014) |
04-16-2014, 09:52 PM | #34 |
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Mobile 1 and Pennzoil platinum are the two best "easy to find" 0w-20s on the market. Tons of great UOAs in a huge variety of cars for both over at BITOG.
The Subaru oil is okay, and both the Toyota and Mazda 0w-20s have a good number of fans over there. It really depends on what your personal thoughts on what is most important are. The two main things people seem to be looking at are the NOACK rating and the viscosity gradient. NOACK rates the oil's resistance to vaporizing, viscosity index rates the actual range of viscosity change with temperature (believe it or not, this can vary greatly within a particular grade of oil from one OK to another). The super high viscosity index oils are great because they behave more optimally at both startup and at operating temp. Toyota 0w-20 is one of the kings here, at around 168 iirc. M1 is the closest of the ots oils but still only rates around 120 from what I remember. I don't think the Subaru is anything to write home about here. A low NOACK indicates a high resistance to vaporization as I said earlier. This is great for keeping gunk out of your intake tract etc and keeping the oil in the crankcase and not in your combustion chamber. Some believe this is very good for today's high commission direct injected engines. Pennzoil platinum rates at the top of the list here. I tried m1 and PP. PP seemed quieter so I stuck with it. It's also a bit thicker at operating temp so I figure it was a bit better for when I really thrash on it. YMMV. Some of the other OE oils are liked because of their additive packages, Mazda falls into this camp if I remember right. Great friction modifiers that some of the "normal" oils don't get anymore for emissions or some other crap reason. Cheers Nathan Last edited by SubieNate; 04-16-2014 at 10:05 PM. |
The Following User Says Thank You to SubieNate For This Useful Post: | amram (04-28-2014) |
04-16-2014, 10:01 PM | #35 |
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I just did my first oil change using Mobile 1, and I've had no problems so far.
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04-17-2014, 06:25 PM | #36 |
Can't say what it does in the FA motor, but having done 10,000 oil changes in the past 12+ years working on subies, done countless oil analysis and tracked lots of customers oil consumption issues. We found that the M1 does not work well in the EJ motors. Clients generally consume more of it, then switch to a higher quality oil like Motul or Amsoil and the consumption dissipates. Also most of the "eco" oils out there tend to break down quicker under higher heat than the more robust non-eco ones. Such as the Motul X series v. the ECO series.
-mike |
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The Following User Says Thank You to AZP Installs For This Useful Post: | amram (04-28-2014) |
04-17-2014, 06:49 PM | #37 |
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The Following User Says Thank You to gramicci101 For This Useful Post: | fooddude (04-17-2014) |
04-17-2014, 07:45 PM | #38 | |
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I saw blown engine after blown engine (EJ's not FA's) running Mobil 1 when working at a Scoob dealer for a few years. Won't let this stuff touch my car. I only plan on running the Subaru 0w20. Its not expensive and works just fine. I see no reason to run something else unless its some custom built block that requires god knows what to maintain... Last edited by Kostamojen; 04-17-2014 at 11:11 PM. |
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04-17-2014, 09:07 PM | #39 | |
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-Mike Paisan Maintaining, Modifying and Educating TriState Enthusiasts since 2001. Like us on Facebook! | E-mail: sales@azpinstalls.com | 725 Fairfield Ave | Kenilworth, NJ 07033 | 908.248.AZP1 (2971) |AIM: AZP Installs "Race Tested, Enthusiast Approved!" |
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04-17-2014, 09:43 PM | #40 |
Yup.
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Mobil 1 0W-20
Answering the OP, I've been using Mobil 1 0W-20 Synthetic, changed every 3-5k miles for 30k miles, bought from Walmart and it works great.
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The Following User Says Thank You to mikeTee For This Useful Post: | amram (04-28-2014) |
04-17-2014, 11:08 PM | #41 |
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No issues so far with mine, either. But it's only been about 500 miles.
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04-18-2014, 12:18 PM | #42 |
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NAPA currently has their full synthetics on sale for $3.49 a quart. Oil is manufactured by Valvoline. No complaints.
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The Following User Says Thank You to White64Goat For This Useful Post: | robwbright (04-18-2014) |
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