Best oil for the 86

[Teseo]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Some say that it's the same stuff .........


humfrz

I use the toyota oem oil

[radroach]

I may change my oil too often and to keep my crankcase holistically clean, but its stuff like reading about AVCS cam gear sludge (from the EJ) and problems with the oil control valve module not liking different viscosities on this FA motor, that just make me want to clean, flush, whatever's in the motor.

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3AwDpxrDEec"]EJ257 metal shavings in AVCS gear - YouTube[/ame]

[Zentec]

The 0W20 oil is for fuel economy and cold start only as it says in your OM, the manufacture/dealer gets kick backs & price per car in line up that is fuel efficient. If you live in a timid climate you are fine with the 0W20 Toyota or Subaru or what brand fits your fancy. If you want to get long life out of your car as I do even if you just daily drive or even push your car you should increase your weight of oil to 30 or (Track/ F.I. to 40) make sure it's full synthetic API grade 5 as states in your OM. If you go with F.I or track your car then yes you need to increase your oil weight period and should use an oil cooler! I live in the desert its dusty, hot as hell, and I love to push my car that is why I got it in the first place. This is why I will be adding an oil cooler and going to a 30 weight oil. This is an enthusiasts car and is high compression high rev engine.
I took my 86 in at 1k miles and had the oil changed at Toyota I paid for it so I did not use my Toyota care then at my 7.5 month mark had it's first regular oil change with my Toyota care. Both times I had them put in the 0w20. Now for my next oil change I will have them put in a 5w30 full synthetic Toyota brand, if they don't cover the cost of the oil under the Toyota care (even though they should). If they won't I will buy my own and have them put it in (I use to do this all the time with my Subie). I could go all the way up to 10w out here as it just doesn't get cold enough although will stick with the 5w30. I will be putting in an oil cooler with an thermal plate down the road. If you track this car or just want to keep it for a long time I suggest oil cooler and or 30 weight oil. Below I have posted a picture of the Subaru BRZ OM in Japan.

You will see that they suggest 0w20, 0w30,5w30, and Castrol SLX Professional SM 5w40(race oil). This Is an Subaru designed engine they know the tolerances. As for brand of oils personally I am considering Royal Purple or Eneos. I have looked at Red Line, Motul, Mobil 1. I have used Mobil 1 in my Subies for years. Royal Purple seems to have an higher friction capacity than others, although I have not seen the Eneos tested. The fact that its Japan's #1 oil and is formulated for Subies is why I'm leaning towards it.

You will would benefit from protection if your putting in 30 weight and the brand is up to you and your application. Fuel economy(1-3%) is what you gain with the 20 weight oil. The winter level is up to you and where you live 0w or 5w will matter on how cold it gets. The reason why they use 0w is because it is the widest range for temp, and so they don't have to stock 300 types of oil at each dealer. Now Toyota uses 0w20 in the 86, Prius, Corolla, iM,Tundra and Tacoma it's all in the OM. Each OM says the same thing in regards to cold start and fuel economy. But you bet your butt that if I had a truck and was hauling and towing that I would put in 30 weight at minimum!
Remember that once oil is at operating temperature and under load with a 20 weight your oil pressure will go down resulting in less oil being pushed through your engine because of the low weight (this is thinning viscosity). If you go up to the 30 weight you will maintain that protection at operating temps under load resulting in longer engine life. If you add the oil cooler depending on the type of cooler you can decrease that oil temp by around 10 degrees F resulting in better and stable oil temp and pressure under load. So with the cooler and 30 or 40 weight you will maintain pressure and protection under load thus helping to keep you engine happy and live a longer life.

Note I have seen a few tests online that show you can gain a few HP depending on the oil types they use same car used on a dyno. What I have found is oil is like gas each has different additives cleaners ect and all come from the same base. Gas is all the same but with different additives added for each manufacture. What is important is octane in gas, what is important in oil is the winter/weight and API grade of full synthetic oil. So think of it as our cars require minimum of 91 octane and our cars require 0w20 minimum (for fuel economy and cold start.) Now if you want performance and put under load you add 93 octane-100 octane or (e85 if your set for it) and 0w-5w and 30 or 40 oil weight. In the end it is all up to you and your living conditions and driving style.

Happy Driving!

[Zentec]

The frequency that you change your oil is entirely up to you, your driving style, and conditions. Did I have to change my oil at 1k during my proper brake in period NO. I did so for peace of mind and I know that there are still contaminates and metal shavings in the oil. I want the best for my car that is why I chose to pay for it. Yes break in oil is a thing of a past and full syn oils are much better than crude oils. Your engine is only tested at the assembly line for defects, that is why they have a proper break in section in you OM. That is also why the word Recommended is used all the time in OMs! The fine print says all the things like under load or climate conditions lol. This is them covering there legal butt.

Change your oil when you feel it should be done as per your climate and driving style, although I would not recommend going over your time/mileage stated in your book.

Live life and dive Happy.

[Soulboarders]

For Vegas folks and SAWing general...in going reline 5w30 in winter and probably 40 in summer....110 degrees here..kinda hot.

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[Somerandom18]

Thoughts on Amsoil's new anti LSPI formula? Worth using?

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