DIY Clutch Replacement

[ermax]

Originally Posted by Pwoods

Has anyone checked out the video on YouTube where a guy drops the trans out of one of these cars in 20 min? There is no need to take the shifter out, everything can be done from underneath the car except removing the slave cylinder and a ground wire on top of the bell housing. This clutch, TOB, etc. replacement is pretty easy. I did mine a couple weeks ago in a total of 2 hrs.


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Yep and 10mins of the video is him removing a cross threaded bolt. This tranny is by far the easiest I’ve ever done.

[YamahaR86]

Originally Posted by Pwoods

Has anyone checked out the video on YouTube where a guy drops the trans out of one of these cars in 20 min? There is no need to take the shifter out, everything can be done from underneath the car except removing the slave cylinder and a ground wire on top of the bell housing. This clutch, TOB, etc. replacement is pretty easy. I did mine a couple weeks ago in a total of 2 hrs.


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I believe he's a member on here and posted it earlier in the thread.

[Boccaccio]

@YamahaR86, correct.

It's TheRacersLine [https://www.ft86club.com/forums/member.php?u=43312]


Awesome and very helpful video

[grichardt]

Here is a video tutorial if anyone is interested of getting the trans out

[zberz]

Originally Posted by grichardt

Here is a video tutorial if anyone is interested of getting the trans out

Thanks for this! Especially the 4 seconds at 16:37 where you show how to pop the bearing cover off. That would have taken me a lot longer to figure out.

[evo13]

thanks you save ma asss bruh this is awesome!!

[k2r79]

The best DIY tutorial out there, thank you so much !

I did my clutch change using jack stands, it was tough and long (around 10 hours) but I finally can enjoy my HKS LA Clutch.

A few things to note :

- Some people have a rubber dust booth around the part with the pin that ties the shifter lever to the gearbox, I suggest removing the pin while the booth is still on and then sliding the lever out. That booth is thight.

- Be careful with the metal plate behind the flywheel, if you move it the TDC sensor will be out and the car won't start, back to square one. See the picture below, there is a little hole close to the center holes that should be aligned properly.



- Ensure your clutch fork is fully inserted on to the pivot by working it from side to side until you hear or feel a click

- You can spin the splines to line them up by putting the gearbox into gear with the rod that ties on to the gear lever and then spinning the drive shaft side of the gearbox

- The most important part to line up the transmission with the engine (after the splines) is to lift the engine at the front, I managed to lift mine just in front of the oil pan between my header pipes. I adjusted the engine tilt according to how big the space between the gearbox and the engine was. I just looked at the space at the top and the bottom of the transmission from the engine bay and tilted the engine until this space is even.

[k2r79]

Originally Posted by grichardt

Here is a video tutorial if anyone is interested of getting the trans out

This also saved me during the process, thank you

[FR-SWINK]

I gave this a go, took my time to do everything right. Car got back together well... and when I clutch in I can't change gears. I can only change gears when the car is off. The car starts and runs fine in neutral, no strange noises when revving. Flywheel should be installed properly knowing this. I can't pin which part is messed up. Clutch is far too light, only resistance is from the master cylinder hydraulics. Cant feel any grab point like normal. My only guess as to what is wrong is something with the new clutch cover/pressure plate. Maybe the disc is pinned? I can never feel the clutch disengage when clutching ALL the way to the floor. If I start in gear it stalls out. Of course I could have messed up, I am new to this but everything seemed aligned properly and the ToB+Fork pivot smoothly.

Parts Replaced:
-Throwout Bearing (OEM)
-Bearing retainer/cover (OEM)
-Clutch fork+clips for ToB (OEM)
-Flywheel (OEM/Exedy)
-OEM Exedy Clutch Kit
-Diff + Trans fluid (Motul 300)
-MTEC Shifter Springs
-Perrin Trans Mount
-Whiteline Trans Insert
-Perrin Shifter mount


-The the ToB and clutch fork pivot smoothly
-Bled the clutch line fully, refilled with new fluids.
-Clutch disc was aligned properly (dropped trans a 2nd time to check this) we not only used the tool but crouched in the trans tunnel to check it, sat flush and center.
-Made sure (on 2nd time)that the clutch fork didn't get knocked out of place while putting the trans back on.
-Alignment when putting the trans back on goes very smoothly which should be a good hint that clutch disc is aligned properly right? There was no keying/scraping on the splines of the disc or the shaft and everything slid in/out.

I followed torque specs, grease and loctite points as well. Any help figuring out where I might have slipped up would be greatly appreciated. I have been struggling with this for a week now. The 2nd time I dropped the trans I got it all done in one night so if I have to do a third time (3 times the charm!) I might can get it done in under 4 hours! I have tried to read everything I can, I can't find anymore info and am getting desperate If I can't get it right next time I think I will just tow it.

[captain awesome]

My money is on trapped air in slave.

[FR-SWINK]

Originally Posted by captain awesome

My money is on trapped air in slave.

Is there a specific way to get air out of the slave? I completely drained the reservoir and refilled with new DOT4 fluid. I can also see the fork getting pressed by the master cylinder but not sure if its being fully pressed. Anyone have a clip or image of the cylinder being fully extended?

[captain awesome]

I use a small oil squirter to push fluid through the bleeder into the reservoir. I’m sure there are better methods to try though.

[T0rt0r0]

Compress the slave all the way in and keep it that way then bleed then slowly release it perhaps ?

[Apsan23]

I did this job last summer to replace my clutch everything was going fine until I noticed a small leak from one of the Starter bolts any Ideas what it could be? I have not drive the car ever since im waiting for better weather to take it down again.(not a mechanic) Thanks