Edelbrock E-force Owner's thread and FAQs (Frequently Asked Questions)

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

Lets knock out some basic info; 2017 BRZ Yellow series, no issues before SC install. I'm an Army Wheeled Vehicle Mechanic with a decade of experience. I had two buddies help with same or better experience. I have read 50 plus TS guides on those codes and at least 10 threads on FT86, haven't seen any solutions. Fuel is 91, no pre-existing faults.

After initial drive cycle, threw P0171 and P117B and StabCtrl, hunting for idle etc. Found out the StabCtrl light is only there to scare you into going to a shop. Checked and found PS PCV hose was loose. Reclamped it, cleaned MAF with CRC MAF cleaner, reflashed the tune. No fuel leaks, hesitation, nothing weird.

Completed multiple drive cycles, everything looked clear, filled the tank like a dumbass, came home to take the wife to get chow and BAM same CELs. Started really hunting and saw bypass valve as a common issue. Smoked bypass valve and PCV, no leaks. Double checked all wiring, hoses, nothing out of place. Saw that over-oiled air filters could do it, cleaned it off and used 25% as much oil as I think it should have. Used starter fluid to see if unmetered air was getting in, no RPM change.

Used the ECUTEK to clear the faults, did another big drive cycle. Using TORQUE I noticed the LTFT is at 38, that seems way high. AF commanded is like 14.6 and measured goes between 14.5-14.7 which should be fine. Since I'm at 90% on the tank the EVAP and Fuel checks are incomplete still. (Edit Aaaand lights are on again!)

Am I missing something?

Consolidated list below:
-Intake air leaks: Negative, used starter fluid
-Faulty front heated oxygen sensor: Unchecked, unlikely as it was OK before install
-Ignition misfiring: Negative, no misfires present
-Faulty fuel injectors: Unchecked, unlikely. No leaks, seals looked OK, not running rough.
-Exhaust gas leaks: Unchecked, unlikely as it was not present before install.
-Incorrect fuel pressure: Unchecked, unlikely
-Lack of fuel: Negative
-Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor: Negative, cleaned and re-seated, (edit reads 12.8 PSI at idle, accurate)
-Over-oiled intake filter getting MAF dirty: Cleaned both
-Incorrect (PCV) hose connection: Corrected, smoke tested for leaks, looks OK
-Bad PCV valve: Unchecked
-Bypass valve leak: Negative, smoked no leaks, moved under suction and held position.

Current facts:
P0171 P117B
AFR(C) 14.67 AFR(M) 14.85
LTFT 1 31.25
STFT1 .78%
INTAKE 4.4PSI
MAF 12 CFM
O2S1 V 2.21
O2 1X2 .7V
MAF reads 12.8 PSI (accurate for 5k elevation.)
Could someone post up numbers for a stock car with Edelbrock SC and stock tune their STFT, LTFT, AFR(commanded), AFR (measured)?

Thanks in advance everyone.
-Robert Porter

Those two would contradict each other. You're either not delivering fuel properly or have unmetered air entering the engine.

How's fuel trim at a highway cruise at 70mph in 5th or 6th gear?

[snowtaipan]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

Those two would contradict each other. You're either not delivering fuel properly or have unmetered air entering the engine.

How's fuel trim at a highway cruise at 70mph in 5th or 6th gear?

Fuel trim at higher RPM is more normal, though I'm now nervous to actually drive her till I pin this issue down.

I know a high LTFT at idle and normal LTFT at higher RPM is usually a vacuum leak, I just don't know where from, or if it's a bad sensor etc.

I have a couple logs

https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/ecut...z?log=0&data=7
https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/ecut...z?log=0&data=7

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

Fuel trim at higher RPM is more normal, though I'm now nervous to actually drive her till I pin this issue down.

I know a high LTFT at idle and normal LTFT at higher RPM is usually a vacuum leak, I just don't know where from, or if it's a bad sensor etc.

I have a couple logs

https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/ecut...z?log=0&data=7
https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/ecut...z?log=0&data=7

You have a pretty massive vaccuum leak.

Check your manifold gaskets, as well as your actuator.

[toast]

Originally Posted by localhost

The supplied Edelbrock CARB tune is honestly not great at all.

That is a tremendous understatement. I can't believe they consider that a tune.

Also, I agree about the bypass valve. Don't use smoke. Disconnect the vacuum line from the actuator and blow into it or if you have a vacuum pump draw a small vacuum on it. It should not move.

[BirdTRD]

I know you probably don't want to hear it but have you considered the "when in doubt, rip it out" strategy, checking every hose, clamp, connector, nut and bolt along the way?
Might even go as far as putting it back to stock just for a sanity check.

[Z06ZN6]

Is that your idle vacuum, (-)4.4psi? That's about 9 inhg or so. That is way too low and you have a big vaccum leak somewhere like Mike stated already. For comparison, my car pulls 17inhg at idle.
If the issue has been there since day 1 of the install and you did everything else correctly, it may be your intake manifold gaskets under the SC. I will tell you, it is VERY easy to severly damage these gaskets under the weight of the SC and have no idea what you did (ask me how I know). They fall out under gravity when lowering the SC down, they get pulled out of their grooves when shifting the supercharger around to align it, they get cut by the sharp, unbroken edges of the machined groove. Worst of all, they are uninspectable after you bolt the SC down. You might still take a look and see if you can see anything around the runner base. My first set of gaskets had to be scrapped for the reasons above. Thankfully I found it by mistake before first start up because I had to remove the SC for other reasons or I would have been chasing a problem for a long, frustrating time.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

Fuel trim at higher RPM is more normal, though I'm now nervous to actually drive her till I pin this issue down.

I know a high LTFT at idle and normal LTFT at higher RPM is usually a vacuum leak, I just don't know where from, or if it's a bad sensor etc.

I have a couple logs

https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/ecut...z?log=0&data=7
https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/ecut...z?log=0&data=7

Your manifold is reading 0.35 bar, which is like -0.65 bar or 9.5 psi vacuum like all the time, even when you blipped the throttle it didn't rise closer to atmospheric pressure, which would be 0 psi on a gauge or 1.0 bar on the log. The lowest you get is 0.15 bar or -0.85 bar or 12 psi of vacuum.

Check my gauge. I'm at -20 PSI at idle. Like Mike said, there must be a leak, which is drawing air into the manifold.



Does your kit have the new BPV?

[BA9092]

Probably a dumb question and I've missed something. I've tried searching but couldn't find anything.

Has anyone ever installed, removed or reinstalled the unit by separating the intake manifold runners from the rotor assembly by removing the six bolts on either side?

It seems that would be easier on the gaskets and when replacing the bypass valve when it fails.

[Z06ZN6]

That's not a dumb question at all. Bolt access when its bolted down to the engine will be hard for a few of the fasteners, but from when I went through this same thought process it looked doable for me at least. So I specifically asked this question to Tony at Edelbrock (chief SC engineer) when I was going through my SC updates. He said never to remove the runner's from the SC unit. Whenever they take these off and reassemble them, they always pressure test the assembly. You may get away without doing that but you also may introduce more problems then what you are starting with. Taking the SC assembly off really isn't that big of a deal, done it a few times, always by myself. I wrote a few tips in one of my earlier posts which really make it easier for me.

[snowtaipan]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Your manifold is reading 0.35 bar, which is like -0.65 bar or 9.5 psi vacuum like all the time, even when you blipped the throttle it didn't rise closer to atmospheric pressure, which would be 0 psi on a gauge or 1.0 bar on the log. The lowest you get is 0.15 bar or -0.85 bar or 12 psi of vacuum.

Check my gauge. I'm at -20 PSI at idle. Like Mike said, there must be a leak, which is drawing air into the manifold.



Does your kit have the new BPV?

I brought one of my buddies over, long story short no leak found. I did realize that, before the SC I was idling around 900 and now it want to sit at 650, and if I hold at 900 the LTFT and STFT are much better.

Everything holds pressure. We capped off the intake and smoked through the left side PCV hose, with the BPV open and the back of the SC capped. No smoke, anywhere. This cannot be a vacuum leak, ever part of it has been checked twice now. We sprayed the injectors, the base of the runners, the TB, the hoses etc with cleaner, no RPM change. We tried spraying water, no stumble and no slurping. This looks like a vacuum leak but someone needs to point to a vacuum leak spot that I haven't checked. I think it's something other than a vacuum leak at this point.
(Both PCV valves, TB, brake booster, EGR solenoid, runners, BPV)

The manifold uses pressure to open the BPV, when you open the throttle up the vacuum drops allowing boost. The BPV holds open, moving at 5 in/hg and full open at 10. It doesn't drop pressure over 10 minutes. We tried disconnecting the BPV and capping the vacuum tube at the back of the SC, it had no effect on LTFT. While hooked up, BPV pulls in (open, bypassing the SC,) and releases when I blip it. So the BPV is good.

BPV=GOOD
Leaks=GOOD

What else is there? The computer thinks I'm lean, raising FT to adjust for it.

At this point I think that the tune sets the idle RPM too low (650 instead of 900) and sets the commanded AFR to 14.67 when it needs to be leaner. Or the tune is reading the o2 sensor wrong, and is seeing it lean when it's not.

Does anyone have an Edelbrock tuning contact I can reach out to?

Moar logs
https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/log-...3?log=0&data=7
(BPV disconnected)
https://datazap.me/u/snowtaipan/p017...l?log=0&data=7

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by snowtaipan

At this point I think that the tune sets the idle RPM too low (650 instead of 900) and sets the commanded AFR to 14.67 when it needs to be leaner. Or the tune is reading the o2 sensor wrong, and is seeing it lean when it's not.

My normal idle is 650, no issues.
If you're positive there are no vacuum or exhaust leaks, and the o2 sensor is functioning properly, I think the only thing you can do is look at the tune.
I personally would go with a tune from a known good tuner beside the canned tune from Edelbrock. I tried their tune and the car felt castrated.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

My normal idle is 650, no issues.
If you're positive there are no vacuum or exhaust leaks, and the o2 sensor is functioning properly, I think the only thing you can do is look at the tune.
I personally would go with a tune from a known good tuner beside the canned tune from Edelbrock. I tried their tune and the car felt castrated.

Are you at altitude? I think the guy is at 5000 ft. He probably should have a higher idle to offset the lower atmospheric pressure.

I have no idea if that would cause all his problems.

[BirdTRD]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

Are you at altitude? I think the guy is at 5000 ft. He probably should have a higher idle to offset the lower atmospheric pressure.

I have no idea if that would cause all his problems.

Hmmm...interesting. I'm pretty much at sea level. You might be on to something.

[snowtaipan]

Originally Posted by BirdTRD

Hmmm...interesting. I'm pretty much at sea level. You might be on to something.

Most of the data logs I've seen that don't have this issue are at 900, mine really want's to live at 650-675. As soon as I sit at 1000 its way better (not perfect but better.)

I looked at my two o2 sensors, and they're no seeing the same thing. One reads normal to leanish, the other is WAY rich. I pinned them out and both seem fine, so I am wondering if the tune didn't scale MAF or O2 correctly somewhere.