720 Form GTF1 Stock Height - Wheels are on!!

[Jordanwolf]

Originally Posted by Deorio

I would consider the Konig Ultraform or Hypergram. Konig has been a reputable brand in the racing scene for quite a while. The two mentioned above are from their newish flow-formed series of wheels. Cheap af for a 17x8 wheel at ~16lb.

https://www.ft86motorsports.com/koni...atte-grey.html

Was looking at the Hypergram a while back, not a fan of the look though.

[OfficeWorker]

I can't comment on the trackability, but I have owned both Enkei and Gram Lights (technically the GLs were NISMO-branded wheels made by Rays GL) and I was delighted with the quality of both...from both a finish perspective, ease of upkeep, and the ability to withstand real-world road usage (MD roads suck right after winter) without bending.

The Gram Lights I had were similar to the 57DR. One thing I instantly fell in love with was how damned easy they were to clean, and just how nice of a convenience that it was.

[Jordanwolf]

Originally Posted by OfficeWorker

I can't comment on the trackability, but I have owned both Enkei and Gram Lights (technically the GLs were NISMO-branded wheels made by Rays GL) and I was delighted with the quality of both...from both a finish perspective, ease of upkeep, and the ability to withstand real-world road usage (MD roads suck right after winter) without bending.

The Gram Lights I had were similar to the 57DR. One thing I instantly fell in love with was how damned easy they were to clean, and just how nice of a convenience that it was.

Since updated, but the Gram Lights are hella cool, just out of my current price range of cheap but good wheels though.

[v1beeee]

I track GTF1's, AMA

[EndlessAzure]

Is there a reason why you need the absolute lightest? What other wheels would be in contention if you didn't have that constraint?

---

Also, I would prefer sticking with 17x9+35 to +40. I run this fitment on my car (Tein Flex A [Lowered ~1.5 inches, -1.7 deg front, -2.4 deg rear], Gram Light 57CR 17x9+38, 245/40-17 Pilot MPSS)

You can fix front poke with camber. You gain camber from simply lowering the car, or adding camber adjustability (which may inevitably come if you're serious about HPDE). It's arguably less desirable to fix rear suck with spacers. The suck gets worse due to increase in rear camber as you lower the car (unless you add a rear LCA).

This why my rear camber is so much higher than my front camber. My car is set-up for daily canyon rather than track; there's no way to significantly adjust the rear camber with the stock components.

[Jordanwolf]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

Is there a reason why you need the absolute lightest? What other wheels would be in contention if you didn't have that constraint?

---

Also, I would prefer sticking with 17x9+35 to +40. I run this fitment on my car (Tein Flex A [Lowered ~1.5 inches, -1.7 deg front, -2.4 deg rear], Gram Light 57CR 17x9+38, 245/40-17 Pilot MPSS)

You can fix front poke with camber. You gain camber from simply lowering the car, or adding camber adjustability (which may inevitably come if you're serious about HPDE). It's arguably less desirable to fix rear suck with spacers. The suck gets worse due to increase in rear camber as you lower the car (unless you add a rear LCA).

This why my rear camber is so much higher than my front camber. My car is set-up for daily canyon rather than track; there's no way to significantly adjust the rear camber with the stock components.

I don't recall if I made mention to having the lightest possible wheels, but I did mention that I would like the wheel to be lighter than stock for it to be a competitive and worthy upgrade. Give or take two or three pounds within the same price bracket and black - darker grey colours, with the sizing 17x8 +35-+42.

Sizing is the only thing I am not looking to change (but am open to change, don't be confused), 17x8 is the size I have decided on, now just finding the perfect wheel within above metrics drastically limits my options, especially when factoring in the price. Reason for sizing is to reuse the stock tires so they don't go to waste and I don't have to shell out immediately for another set of tires, and clearance/rub issues; I will be staying stock suspension for a while and am not really interested in having rubbing/clearance issues, unless of course proven to be not an issue for sizes like 17x8.5 or 17x9.

I may be bumping the price up a bit so I have more competition between wheels, but when the price is higher than for my current choice, the GTF1, the style, weight and colour all have to be absolutely perfect.... and as I go and check the the wheels today.. the price went back up so, that leaves more room for contenders.


Note: I am using https://www.ft86motorsports.com/ as a baseline for Canadian pricing, so if someone knows a better option I am open to suggestions.

[JustSomeGuy]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

Is there a reason why you need the absolute lightest? What other wheels would be in contention if you didn't have that constraint?

---

Also, I would prefer sticking with 17x9+35 to +40. I run this fitment on my car (Tein Flex A [Lowered ~1.5 inches, -1.7 deg front, -2.4 deg rear], Gram Light 57CR 17x9+38, 245/40-17 Pilot MPSS)

You can fix front poke with camber. You gain camber from simply lowering the car, or adding camber adjustability (which may inevitably come if you're serious about HPDE). It's arguably less desirable to fix rear suck with spacers. The suck gets worse due to increase in rear camber as you lower the car (unless you add a rear LCA).

This why my rear camber is so much higher than my front camber. My car is set-up for daily canyon rather than track; there's no way to significantly adjust the rear camber with the stock components.

do you got any pics to upload? im interested in 17x9 +35 also lowering roughly same height and wanna get a good idea

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by Jordanwolf

I don't recall if I made mention to having the lightest possible wheels, but I did mention that I would like the wheel to be lighter than stock for it to be a competitive and worthy upgrade. Give or take two or three pounds within the same price bracket and black - darker grey colours, with the sizing 17x8 +35-+42.

Sizing is the only thing I am not looking to change (but am open to change, don't be confused), 17x8 is the size I have decided on, now just finding the perfect wheel within above metrics drastically limits my options, especially when factoring in the price. Reason for sizing is to reuse the stock tires so they don't go to waste and I don't have to shell out immediately for another set of tires, and clearance/rub issues; I will be staying stock suspension for a while and am not really interested in having rubbing/clearance issues, unless of course proven to be not an issue for sizes like 17x8.5 or 17x9.

I may be bumping the price up a bit so I have more competition between wheels, but when the price is higher than for my current choice, the GTF1, the style, weight and colour all have to be absolutely perfect.... and as I go and check the the wheels today.. the price went back up so, that leaves more room for contenders.


Note: I am using https://www.ft86motorsports.com/ as a baseline for Canadian pricing, so if someone knows a better option I am open to suggestions.

Gotcha. Yeah I have to be careful with CAD pricing; I'm so used to what the US market prices are. You guys might have different import taxes and other considerations to take care of in that regard.

Always a trade-off between pay-now and pay-later with regard to getting all the components. I bought coilovers and wheels/tires all at once, so it was not an issue for me.

Konig Ampliforms just released. A little outside of your $800 CAD mark, but I like them. https://www.ft86motorsports.com/whee...-graphite.html

I'll browse around and let you know if I spot anything else.

Originally Posted by JustSomeGuy

do you got any pics to upload? im interested in 17x9 +35 also lowering roughly same height and wanna get a good idea

Check out this post: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...&postcount=206

If you want to see any other angles, let me know. My floor-to-fender height is approximately [24-3/4" Front, 25-15/16" Rear]

[carlovestela]

Gonna buy 17x9+38 57cr
Trd lowering springs in stock suspension.
Whats the camber to avoid poke and rub in front and rear?
Thanks

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

Is there a reason why you need the absolute lightest? What other wheels would be in contention if you didn't have that constraint?

---

Also, I would prefer sticking with 17x9+35 to +40. I run this fitment on my car (Tein Flex A [Lowered ~1.5 inches, -1.7 deg front, -2.4 deg rear], Gram Light 57CR 17x9+38, 245/40-17 Pilot MPSS)

You can fix front poke with camber. You gain camber from simply lowering the car, or adding camber adjustability (which may inevitably come if you're serious about HPDE). It's arguably less desirable to fix rear suck with spacers. The suck gets worse due to increase in rear camber as you lower the car (unless you add a rear LCA).

This why my rear camber is so much higher than my front camber. My car is set-up for daily canyon rather than track; there's no way to significantly adjust the rear camber with the stock components.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by carlovestela

Gonna buy 17x9+38 57cr
Trd lowering springs in stock suspension.
Whats the camber to avoid poke and rub in front and rear?
Thanks

I don't know how much the lowering springs drop the car, but my rough back-of-the-envelope calculations before I fitted the wheels to the car were ~2deg front camber. This was pretty accurate, since they look pretty much dead on flush with my -1.7 deg front camber

You technically don't need any rear camber.

[carlovestela]

Do i need camber bolts in front to adjust camber?
Whats the ideal camber for front and rear
I think trd springs lowers 1”

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

I don't know how much the lowering springs drop the car, but my rough back-of-the-envelope calculations before I fitted the wheels to the car were ~2deg front camber. This was pretty accurate, since they look pretty much dead on flush with my -1.7 deg front camber

You technically don't need any rear camber.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by carlovestela

Do i need camber bolts in front to adjust camber?
Whats the ideal camber for front and rear
I think trd springs lowers 1”

You need front camber bolts or camber plate.

I don't know what the ideal for front is. You'll have to do your own calculations/research.

Ideal for rear is zero.

[churchx]

Ideal can be differing depending on car and on use type (daily or track or some mix of those) and from tires used and from wished handling change. Even stock rear camber is not zero, i somewhat doubt on it being best choice.
Commonly i see mentioned -1.5dg front, -1dg rear camber for daily driving, -2.5dg to -3.5dg front camber for track, -2dg to -2.5dg rear, even more camber front like -4dg or -5dg for drift setups. Zero toe front, slight +0.1dg toe in rear. (stock is zero camber front, -1.2dg rear, zero toe front, 0.2dg rear toe in. Best way to dial "ideal" camber is with tire pyrometer with comparing tire inside/outside temps.

[Jordanwolf]

bump See Edit2 in first post