What oil will you use?

[frs10]

Originally Posted by OmarYasin

I work at napa autoparts so I bout nearly get it at store cost

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hook it up!

send it over to NYC haha

[Euro7R]

OW-20 Factory Oil. I don't drive my car that much.

[OmarYasin]

Originally Posted by frs10

hook it up!

send it over to NYC haha

Ok but u pay shipping

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[frs10]

Originally Posted by OmarYasin

Ok but u pay shipping

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ill def hit you up next time i have an oil change... unfortunately i just changed my oil

[Jmonty]

Wow 12 pages but a good read

[regal]

There is talk in the thread about camshaft wear due to Subaru having issues with VVT design, a video was just posted I guess this is their third revision. Now one thing we know is ZDDP protects camshafts, the SN oils are pretty darn low on ZDDP. I'm going to stick with my regiment of adding a 1/2 qt of 0w30 Mobile racing oil, its full of the stuff and compatible with Toyota 0W20. Only down side is cat damage when/if the rings wear out.


I can understand why so many here take redline 0w20 as its full of ZDDP, ashame it voids the warranty.

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by regal

There is talk in the thread about camshaft wear due to Subaru having issues with VVT design, a video was just posted I guess this is their third revision. Now one thing we know is ZDDP protects camshafts, the SN oils are pretty darn low on ZDDP. I'm going to stick with my regiment of adding a 1/2 qt of 0w30 Mobile racing oil, its full of the stuff and compatible with Toyota 0W20. Only down side is cat damage when/if the rings wear out.


I can understand why so many here take redline 0w20 as its full of ZDDP, ashame it voids the warranty.

Where's the vid? Is the wear specifically traced to lower ZDDP levels? I don't know, ZDDP isn't the be all and end all for anti-wear additives. It's just cheap.

There are new additives including organic non-metallic adds that don't show up in uoa's. Do you really think that someone that uses super low zinc Eneos Sustina is going to have additional camshaft wear based on lower ZDDP levels? I think the oil formulators are smarter than that. OTOH, Mobil1 5W-20 does use more ZDDP than the 0W-20.
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf
And where are you finding find M1 Racing? I only see it on-line.

-Dennis

[mweidner311]

Thought I would chime in as well.

Changed mine at about 7,500 I bought the car certified used dealer said they changed it before I purchased at the time 6,500 miles on it I put about 1k on driving it from Chicago back home to GA. The oil shot out like water I am definitely not used to 0w20 and for "allegedly" only having about 1k miles on it it was already caramel in color is this normal?

Usually with synthetics in my other vehicles it doesn't start changing color for a couple thousand miles.

Either way thanks everyone for the info from what it sounds like I'll stick to Mobil 1 0w20 (only $25 for 5 quarts at walmart cant beat that) I only drive her to the office on Friday and sparsely on the weekend.

LOVIN the car! Thanks again

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by mweidner311

The oil shot out like water I am definitely not used to 0w20 and for "allegedly" only having about 1k miles on it it was already caramel in color is this normal?

As long as that dealer used an API SN/SM ILSAC GF-5/GF-4 certified oil, then it's fine. Different oils can have different colors from different additive packages.

-Dennis

[GotMunchies?]

Originally Posted by mweidner311

The oil shot out like water I am definitely not used to 0w20 and for "allegedly" only having about 1k miles on it it was already caramel in color is this normal?

Addressing only this from your post - oil color is not indicative of how "worn" or "dirty" the oil is. Oil holds particulates in suspension and this changes the color - it means the oil is functioning as intended.

Talk to someone running a diesel (like me) and they'll tell you that their oil is darker than a black steer's ass on a moonless prairie night after 500 miles. But its still good for 10,000 miles.

[regal]

Originally Posted by mweidner311

Thought I would chime in as well.

Changed mine at about 7,500 I bought the car certified used dealer said they changed it before I purchased at the time 6,500 miles on it I put about 1k on driving it from Chicago back home to GA. The oil shot out like water I am definitely not used to 0w20 and for "allegedly" only having about 1k miles on it it was already caramel in color is this normal?

Usually with synthetics in my other vehicles it doesn't start changing color for a couple thousand miles.

Either way thanks everyone for the info from what it sounds like I'll stick to Mobil 1 0w20 (only $25 for 5 quarts at walmart cant beat that) I only drive her to the office on Friday and sparsely on the weekend.

LOVIN the car! Thanks again

I agree ZDDP is old school and cheap. Problem with the new additives is you have to take the companies word for it, for all we know these new super molecules could be modified paraffin. Not saying they are we consumers are in the dark.


A bought the mobile 1 0w30 racing oil for $15 shipped off amazon, good for 2 oil changes to give redline additive levels. At $7.5 per oil change I can afford the insurance/piece of mind.


I may switch to the 0w30 catterham blend plus the racing oil additive. Need to get my oil pressure gauge installed when it warms up.

[mweidner311]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

As long as that dealer used an API SN/SM ILSAC GF-5/GF-4 certified oil, then it's fine. Different oils can have different colors from different additive packages.

-Dennis

Originally Posted by GotMunchies?

Addressing only this from your post - oil color is not indicative of how "worn" or "dirty" the oil is. Oil holds particulates in suspension and this changes the color - it means the oil is functioning as intended.

Talk to someone running a diesel (like me) and they'll tell you that their oil is darker than a black steer's ass on a moonless prairie night after 500 miles. But its still good for 10,000 miles.

Originally Posted by regal

I agree ZDDP is old school and cheap. Problem with the new additives is you have to take the companies word for it, for all we know these new super molecules could be modified paraffin. Not saying they are we consumers are in the dark.


A bought the mobile 1 0w30 racing oil for $15 shipped off amazon, good for 2 oil changes to give redline additive levels. At $7.5 per oil change I can afford the insurance/piece of mind.


I may switch to the 0w30 catterham blend plus the racing oil additive. Need to get my oil pressure gauge installed when it warms up.

Thank you all for your knowledge and input. Puts my mind at ease a bit then about the color.

Would it be safe to use 0w30? I do see others running it.I only drive it sparingly but when I do its 35 miles one way to the office cruising at about 85mph then stop go in lovely ATL traffic.... when I'm back around home though I do have a very heavy foot I would feel better running a thicker oil just leery to go against the manufactures specs...

I'm still new to this forum thing if I knew how to thank you each I would... sorry

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted by mweidner311

Thank you all for your knowledge and input. Puts my mind at ease a bit then about the color.

Would it be safe to use 0w30? I do see others running it.I only drive it sparingly but when I do its 35 miles one way to the office cruising at about 85mph then stop go in lovely ATL traffic.... when I'm back around home though I do have a very heavy foot I would feel better running a thicker oil just leery to go against the manufactures specs...

I'm still new to this forum thing if I knew how to thank you each I would... sorry

Judging from uoa's posted here, as well as input from engine builders on this forum, a thicker viscosity isn't needed. Even some guys that have added forced induction run 0W-20's (although more robust 0W-20's like Red Line and Motul 300V).

-Dennis

[regal]

Originally Posted by bluesubie

Judging from uoa's posted here, as well as input from engine builders on this forum, a thicker viscosity isn't needed. Even some guys that have added forced induction run 0W-20's (although more robust 0W-20's like Red Line and Motul 300V).

-Dennis

Its a catch 22. There are still a lot of UOA's with high copper as well.


If you read the vvt noise thread I recommend watching the video with the Avo engineer.


I can say my FA20 runs better on the 0w20. The vvt noise is a lot lower than with 5w30. But I admit I am still concerned for long time rod bearing wear with 0w20 so I'm trying the 0w30 catterham mix next oil change.