When do you guys shift under normal driving (Esp 1st to 2nd)

[NiteScar]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Actually, the two are analagous. Once you get the feel of it being more picky, it's easy to clutchless shift the same way you shift that tractor.

Another thing about this transmission when it's cold, is how quickly it stalls as soon as you disengage the clutch in neutral. It's like molasses. When you upshift, especially from first to second, if you don't get through neutral quickly enough you lose that match and have to really lean into the syncro to get it spinning back up fast enough. I usually double clutch if I miss.

I guarantee you would appreciate the clutch cylinder mod. Try it.

Hmmm. I have noticed, especially on the first drive of the day, it helps to shift quicker but I always feel like I'm in "race-mode" and that's overkill when I'm just cruising in traffic lmao.

Sometimes I say screw it and accel to 5k or so in 1st, skip 2nd and shift right to 3rd, then casually accelerate since I'm close to lugging haha.

I've debated removing the clutch assistance spring / adjusting pedal height per the numerous threads on here but I'm not sure how Subaru would feel, since I'm practically brand new into warranties (2017 sub-3,000 miles on ODO). You could argue I've barely driven the car and you'd be correct.

It's just frustrating given I have nearly 400,000mi behind the wheel (tractor) in the last 3 years and "feel out" a truck in the first month or so.

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[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by Spec C Wannabe

What is clutch cylinder mod? Adjusting the clutch rod at the base of clutch pedal?

No, that's just a good adjustment to dial in. A couple pages into that thread I start a new DIY.


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77390

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by NiteScar

Hmmm. I have noticed, especially on the first drive of the day, it helps to shift quicker but I always feel like I'm in "race-mode" and that's overkill when I'm just cruising in traffic lmao.

Sometimes I say screw it and accel to 5k or so in 1st, skip 2nd and shift right to 3rd, then casually accelerate since I'm close to lugging haha.

I've debated removing the clutch assistance spring / adjusting pedal height per the numerous threads on here but I'm not sure how Subaru would feel, since I'm practically brand new into warranties (2017 sub-3,000 miles on ODO). You could argue I've barely driven the car and you'd be correct.

It's just frustrating given I have nearly 400,000mi behind the wheel (tractor) in the last 3 years and "feel out" a truck in the first month or so.

Leave the spring installed. It's not bad. Swap the slave cylinder and don't tell anyone about it. Looks identical.

The thing I don't like about going up to 5k when it's cold is that, especially for a new engine, the oil pressure is easily in bypass range. I think it goes full bypass at 140 PSI. First thing in the morning, it pushes 120 PSI by 2500 RPM on 0W-20. All it takes is a flick of the wrist quickly through neutral with steady, gentle pressure, and it will drop right into second.

[NiteScar]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

Leave the spring installed. It's not bad. Swap the slave cylinder and don't tell anyone about it.

First thing in the morning, it pushes 120 PSI by 2500 RPM on 0W-20. All it takes is a flick of the wrist quickly through neutral with steady, gentle pressure, and it will drop right into second.

Haha I like it, I'll look for your DIY once I take my break tonight. I definitely need more time behind the wheel of my car anyhow, but the knowledge and understanding is definitely appreciated.

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[mkivsoopra]

Originally Posted by cjd

So low? I take it to 7850 every time.

I short-shift at 10,000 RPM in every gear. Not joking either... #becauseraceacr

[treerexaudi Official]

I know this was a thread about shifting, and I too am a fairly new driver to standard. I just thought I would share my 2 cents since this thread doesn't look that dead.

Coming out slowly with the clutch and giving it gas as I let the clutch out slowly. When I say slow it isn't S-L-O-W it just isn't instantly out either if you know what I mean. and while I am letting out on the clutch I give it a little bit of gas at the bitting point and just continue to let of the clutch and give more gas. Seems smooth for me. I shift between 2k-3k RPMs (They said I shouldn't go over 3k rpm until I hit 2k miles on the clock)

Since I gave a tip though I would like to share a sort of problem that is shifting related and I am sorry if this is the wrong place. Every other thread on the topic looks old (2012 old, don't want to be a necro poster) c:

Heel toeing. Yes I can rev match for smoother downshifts and it works great! But I commute a little ways away and take a highway. Once I get to the off ramp I want to rev match. For a smooth downshift and to help the transmission last a bit longer if I can. But when coming off the off ramp I have to break, and I just can't seem to heel toe either due to the throttle being a tad low or the car being on brembos which are a bit (QUITE!) touchy. Maybe I am wrong and the brembos aren't touchy and the gas peddle is just right. Please correct me if I am wrong!!! D:


P.S. My parents say rev matching and heel toe is for race cars only. c:


Best regards,

-treerexaudi Official

[churchx]

Supposedly pedal placement in our cars (and shape of pedal) might be impacted by lame "sudden acceleration"/"sticky carpets" lawsuits from Land of Free. After all, pre-launch prototype had more H&T friendly pedals, changed from angled to plain rectangular and spaced wider apart when cars actually were launched.
I might be wrong, but RHD drivers also usually complained less for pedal placement regarding H&T.
Even with current pedal placement H&T is kind of usable .. except mostly on track, where you press brake pedal harder/deeper, then it's not that hard to reach also gas.
Or, if your want to use throttle blipping even for downshifts during lighter brake presses, or eg. train for it also during DD, i suggest buying Verus's spacer kit, that will relocate accelerator both higher from floor, and a bit lower and closer to brake pedal. Or one of different aftermarket pedal sets that bolton different shaped pedal ontop of stoock.