Easy Axle Replacement

[thekevinvo]

The easiest way you can replace an axle on these cars.

[NoHaveMSG]

Should replace the nut. I find they don't hold well after being removed. I have a couple spares I keep in my stuff.

[thekevinvo]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

Should replace the nut. I find they don't hold well after being removed. I have a couple spares I keep in my stuff.

I'll have to pick one up when I get the chance.

[canyons]

This process in this video worked worked for me. First side ~90min, second side ~40 min.

here is the process checklist I used:

BRZ AXLE REPLACEMENT

Tools:
- pry bar or fork
- torque wrench
- 32mm socket (axle nut)
- 17mm socket and crescent wrench
- 19mm socket and crescent wrench – for
- High temp grease


STEPS:

- Lift car, remove wheel.

- straighten (round out) the punched/bent part of the axle nut so it will spin freely
- Remove the big axle nut (32MM) with breaker bar.

- remove 19mm outer bolt on lower control arm - MARK the bolt/nut position first!!
----- oem bolts may be 17mm? Can’t remember.

- remove 17mm on lower trailing arm

- CAREFULLY hammer axle inwards to free it from the spindle – don’t hit the wheel studs or the axle splines!

- use a screw driver / tool to push the axle through the spindle
- pivot the spindle left/ front of car and tap it through until it comes loose.


- With a wide pry-bar or fork, lever the inner spline connector from the rear diff
- Remove old axle from the diff and from the hub


- INSTALL NEW AXLE

- start at inside, hand place it, line up the splines

- Replace old axle nut half-way on to absorb hammer bows. Use a few blows at the hub end of the axle with a 4lb hammer to get the whole axle it to seat past the interior circlamp.

- Pivot the spindle left (forward) as much as possible, then angle the outer part of the axle and fish the end of axle into the spindle

Wiggle and jiggle to seat the outer splines fully into the hub.

Thread on the Axle nut finger-tight

Reinstall the bolts for the lower control arm and lower trailing arm. May need a jack to position the LCA.


Once suspension bolts are done, Torque down the Axle bolt to 160 foot-pounds

With a nail set, punch the axel bolt sleeve to stop loosening.

DONE !


BOLT TORQUES:å

Axle nut 160 foot-lbs
Lower control arm (SPL) bolt - 59 lb-ft
Lower trailing arm bolt - 81 lb-ft

[canyons]

For aligning the replacement axle:

swivel the spindle+hub to the font as much as possible. Stick a piece of wood between the spindle and the coil-over to keep it out of your way.

I extra jack stands so I used those to support the new axle in a straight line while tapping it into the diff and then wresting the outer edge into the Hub.

Much easier when your're not holding the axle up at the same time!


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[blsfrs]

I just did axles on an 05 Forester. Same axle configuration as the Twins. This time I put a little oil on the diff end of the axle over the lock ring. Push the axle in until it contacts the lock ring then take up the "slack" in the CV. An quick impulse push sends it home. No BFH needed.

[gnarjunkie]

Originally Posted by canyons

For aligning the replacement axle:

swivel the spindle+hub to the font as much as possible. Stick a piece of wood between the spindle and the coil-over to keep it out of your way.

I extra jack stands so I used those to support the new axle in a straight line while tapping it into the diff and then wresting the outer edge into the Hub.

Much easier when your're not holding the axle up at the same time!


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Attachment 222246.
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Attachment 222247

This was incredibly helpful. Everything went smooth for me until I was trying to hold the knuckle with my shoulder and somehow align it with my left hand while tapping it in with my right.

I didn't have an appropriate piece of wood, but I wedged a rubber wheel chock between the LCA and the knuckle and used a jackstand to hold the axle at the right angle. Then it was just a couple taps and it was in. I liked the thought of using the old axle nut to give a good surface to tap on as well.