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Engine, Exhaust, Transmission Discuss the FR-S | 86 | BRZ engine, exhaust and drivetrain. |
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10-17-2013, 04:47 AM | #1 |
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How-To: Change final drive ratio (relatively) cheaply
I just recently completed a final gear swap in my FR-S a couple days ago and have another thread going on that. What I want to do here is give the recipe I followed all in one place.
For reference, when I refer to a "carrier", I mean specifically the whole pumpkin assembly with the actual differential installed in it. Carrier, pumpkin, third member, same thing. Note for turbo guys: If you're looking to swap to a taller gear ratio, just go get yourself a carrier from an IS300. You want either an M98 (3.9 final drive) or M85 (3.7) code. These are the LSD variants for the automatic and manual IS300, respectively. Both of these are a direct swap into our cars, the only trick is to pop out the axle stubs (the wheels on the sides) as our axles simply spline straight into the carrier. You still may consider overhauling the carrier/differential depending on the condition yours is in, but otherwise you can stop reading here. OPTIONAL - Donor Carrier What I did to minimize my downtime was to obtain one of the carriers mentioned in the note above, and had my gears installed in that. Added bonus of having a second working carrier in case something goes Horribly Wrong. Optional Cost: ~$300 depending on condition Meat and Potatoes - Ring and Pinion Give Spence a call at weirperformance.com. Tell him that you want an 8" ring and pinion set for a mark 3 Supra and that you intend to use it in an IS300 or FR-S/BRZ carrier. Then just make up your mind what ratio you want. He also sells a shim kit that I highly recommend for $15. It has all the shims you could possibly need to get the install right. Cost: $225 for ring and pinion, $15 for shims, plus shipping Fiddly Bits - Seals and Nuts For these I just visited a couple different Toyota parts distributor sites. Here's the breakdown of what I got for my installation:
Other note: If you're looking to make Balls-Out Torques, you may consider getting a solid spacer in lieu of the OEM pinion spacer. Also available from Weir, also part of the installation kit. Cost: ~$100 without bearings, plus shipping Putting it together - Labor Cost 4 hours for the ring and pinion install, 2-3 hours for carrier install. I'd recommend a dedicated differential shop for this just because they should be guaranteed to get the setup dead on. Labor costs vary widely, and you could easily save a couple hundred bucks by installing the carrier in your car yourself. I chose to let the Professionals handle it all. Cost: ~$700 if the shop does everything, ~$400 if you install your own carrier, $0 if you're a Professional Price Breakdowns
So there you have it! Let me know if you think I missed anything or need further clarification on something. Big thanks to @37, @Jeff Lange and anyone else I may have forgotten for helping me figure out what ratio I wanted and what installation parts to buy. |
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10-17-2013, 05:27 AM | #2 |
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Excellent post, thank you!
I'm not sure what the pinion spacer is could you clarify that for me? . Sent from my GT-S7560M using Tapatalk |
10-17-2013, 09:35 AM | #3 |
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Picture the pinion as the gear on the end of the driveshaft that spins the ring gear. You don't want it pushing off the ring gear and sliding back up the driveshaft. A solid spacer to hold it in place makes that impossible. When I say driveshaft, I obviously mean the assembly in the carrier that the driveshaft connects to, but you get the idea.
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10-17-2013, 02:23 PM | #5 |
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Amazing post! One question though. I live in the Tacoma/Seattle area too and was wondering where you found your carrier at? Local, or did you order online? Thanks!
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10-17-2013, 04:03 PM | #6 |
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If you're looking to buy local, do a search on car-part.com. There's always eBay if there's nothing around, but these suckers are HEAVY so shipping will probably be awful.
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10-17-2013, 04:11 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
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10-17-2013, 04:32 PM | #8 |
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The OEM spacer is still made of steel, but it's meant to be "crushed down" when putting everything back together. Hence the alternative term, crush sleeve. A solid spacer is much more substantial and doesn't deform during reassembly.
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10-17-2013, 05:42 PM | #9 |
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Golden thread!
Part numbers are a great help, thanks again |
10-17-2013, 06:01 PM | #10 |
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Total noob question, but when searching on car-part does it matter if it is locking or non-locking? Are you able to slap the LSD from your diff into the carrier? If this is stupid sorry
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10-17-2013, 07:54 PM | #11 | |
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Quote:
Open differentials suck. You definitely want a LSD version if at all possible. |
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10-17-2013, 09:24 PM | #12 |
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Great work, this will be very helpful to many (including myself haha)!
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10-19-2013, 11:04 PM | #13 |
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I will definitely be doing this as well. Thanks OP for all the info!!
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10-20-2013, 11:59 AM | #14 |
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Thanks for the post. Ill be doing this aftet my wheels
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