Clutch Squeaks at the end of travel... clutch fork?

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by treminaor

That's how I drive my cars, never had a problem with grease turning to sludge before this. If I was going drive it like a grandma it the whole time I would have bought a manual Corolla and called it a day.

I's jest ah messen wich ya there, @treminaor ...... sorry if I upset you .....


humfrz

[treminaor]

It's cool guys I thought you were being serious about how I drive the car

I guess I'll try to pick up some lubricant this weekend and fix it myself spraying under the boot.

In other news I noticed the little rubber stop that the clutch pedal arm hits against in the footwell is chopped in half from wear lol, I guess I should replace that with something.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by treminaor

It's cool guys I thought you were being serious about how I drive the car

I guess I'll try to pick up some lubricant this weekend and fix it myself spraying under the boot.

In other news I noticed the little rubber stop that the clutch pedal arm hits against in the footwell is chopped in half from wear lol, I guess I should replace that with something.

You know those adhesive backed felt pads? Perfect. I'm still on my first one after 2 years.

[treminaor]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

You know those adhesive backed felt pads? Perfect. I'm still on my first one after 2 years.

Exactly what I had in mind, could have sworn I had some laying in a drawer but I'm still searching

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by treminaor

Exactly what I had in mind, could have sworn I had some laying in a drawer but I'm still searching

It's the rare "actual" upgrade. That rubber thing is a POS.

[treminaor]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

It's the rare "actual" upgrade. That rubber thing is a POS.

Ended up using some rubber drawer liner and 3M tape until I finally find those chair leg pads somewhere. Seems to work great so far but probably won't last as long as a chair pad.

Still gotta figure out what spray lube to pick up today too.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by treminaor

Ended up using some rubber drawer liner and 3M tape until I finally find those chair leg pads somewhere. Seems to work great so far but probably won't last as long as a chair pad.

Still gotta figure out what spray lube to pick up today too.

Be careful about spraying anything in there because you don't want to get anything on the clutch disk, pressure plate or flywheel. Most of the time "Bubba" just screws things up.......

@Ultramaroon ....what should he try to get onto that "socket" and how best to do it .... ??


humfrz

[treminaor]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Be careful about spraying anything in there because you don't want to get anything on the clutch disk, pressure plate or flywheel. Most of the time "Bubba" just screws things up.......

@Ultramaroon ....what should he try to get onto that "socket" and how best to do it .... ??


humfrz

I picked up the Lucas Red #2 tube and a grease gun. Waiting to get info about where to point it in there lol.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Be careful about spraying anything in there because you don't want to get anything on the clutch disk, pressure plate or flywheel. Most of the time "Bubba" just screws things up.......

@Ultramaroon ....what should he try to get onto that "socket" and how best to do it .... ??

Oh, the pivot? I've come full circle on the lithium spray. I don't think it hurts anything to stick a little spurt in there but it won't last as long as the lithium complex stuff.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by treminaor

I picked up the Lucas Red #2 tube and a grease gun. Waiting to get info about where to point it in there lol.

Haha.. NICE! I'm working on that now. gimme a few more mins.

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by treminaor

I picked up the Lucas Red #2 tube and a grease gun. Waiting to get info about where to point it in there lol.

We will remove the dust boot over the fork. You will have to unbolt the slave cylinder and slide it out of the way. We won't touch the hydraulics.

There should be grease around the end of the pin and grease in the divot on the end of the fork. If it's good, I collect it together and mash it back into the divot.

Using a 14 mm socket and a long extension remove the 2 mounting bolts. They will be super fucking tight and they will let go with a snap.

The outer heater hose will be a bit of a pain. Just fold it up and back a little.

When the cylinder comes loose the piston will extend the pin. There's a little spring on the wet side that pushes against the piston but the boot will keep everything together.

Move the cylinder aside and pop the dust cover off of the fork.

Rock the top of the fork forward and reach down the back of the fork carefully with your finger. You will feel the pivot pin in the socket.

Mash a good ball of grease in there with your finger. Then jiggle the fork back and forth a bunch of times.

Notice at first how the TOB binds a little over the guide. That's what gets bad enough to break the fork. It will clear up a little when you work it back and forth but it really needs to be cleaned. The clutch material sticks in there and acts like sandpaper.

Reinstall in reverse order.

Enjoy.

[gravitylover]

^Pics?

[Ultramaroon]

Originally Posted by gravitylover

^Pics?

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77390

minus the hydraulic stuff.

Here's under the bell housing.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Ultramaroon

We will remove the dust boot over the fork. You will have to unbolt the slave cylinder and slide it out of the way. We won't touch the hydraulics.

There should be grease around the end of the pin and grease in the divot on the end of the fork. If it's good, I collect it together and mash it back into the divot.

Using a 14 mm socket and a long extension remove the 2 mounting bolts. They will be super fucking tight and they will let go with a snap.

The outer heater hose will be a bit of a pain. Just fold it up and back a little.

When the cylinder comes loose the piston will extend the pin. There's a little spring on the wet side that pushes against the piston but the boot will keep everything together.

Move the cylinder aside and pop the dust cover off of the fork.

Rock the top of the fork forward and reach down the back of the fork carefully with your finger. You will feel the pivot pin in the socket.

Mash a good ball of grease in there with your finger. Then jiggle the fork back and forth a bunch of times.

Notice at first how the TOB binds a little over the guide. That's what gets bad enough to break the fork. It will clear up a little when you work it back and forth but it really needs to be cleaned. The clutch material sticks in there and acts like sandpaper.

Reinstall in reverse order.

Enjoy.

Are you fixing the fork, performing a prostrate exam or describing your prom date?