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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing. |
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10-10-2013, 02:28 PM | #15 |
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You may be able to get up to speed quicker with more horsepower, but unless you're on the throttle while braking, stopping from 80mph with 1000 horsepower is the same as 80mph with 100 horsepower. Obviously with more power you'll likely have higher peak speeds (on a track), which could translate to needing more braking power.
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10-10-2013, 02:31 PM | #16 | |
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On a given track, with specific parameters, you'll get to a faster top/entry speed with more HP, so you need more heat dissipation on hand for the brakes, where BBKs come in handy. -alex Edit: you edited right when I quoted you... |
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The Following User Says Thank You to mav1178 For This Useful Post: | Firestorm_86 (10-10-2013) |
10-10-2013, 06:57 PM | #17 |
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Once you've determined you are ready for a brake upgrade there are some good options out there. Like @Dave-ROR said, be careful when selecting an "upgrade" as it is easy to mess up performance. My personal track choice has always been AP Racing but there are plenty of other good bbk's out there that will work and help with your track days.
Remember what Dave said, Adding too much rotational mass can actually hurt your braking (and accelerating) performance.
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10-11-2013, 12:54 AM | #18 | |
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These are all reasons why brake upgrades should be properly designed. I think a lot of us have went through the "I'm going to run XXXmm front brakes with 4 pots..." only to use the same brake marker on track and end that braking zone with a "oh shiiiiiiiit" due to improperly thought out changes. Not saying that you haven't taken these things into account.
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10-11-2013, 12:56 AM | #19 | |
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Just sayin... Speaking of brakes, I really should install those SS lines that have been sitting around for a year. There's absolutely zero need to do so but I'm kinda sick of looking at them taking up shelf space in my garage. :shrug:
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10-11-2013, 01:32 AM | #20 | |
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Legacy GT had 316mm front rotors, so moving to a 290mm-ish rotor wasn't the smartest move. On this car, the rotors are identical up front so the 4 pot isn't a "BBK" as much as it simply an opposed-piston fixed caliper that feels better. |
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10-11-2013, 03:31 AM | #21 | |
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I appreciate what you're trying to say about rotating mass - I have found that it doesn't really become an issue (gyroscope effect) until you get to ~380mm or larger. |
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10-11-2013, 01:36 PM | #22 | |
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I tend to follow this path: 1. If I beat on the car on track for extended periods of time, does it fail? 2. If yes, what's the best way to resolve it without increasing mass? 3. Does that change require a rear brake change to resolve any bias issues? If so, are more agressive pads (up to a point) enough? That's simplified a bit, but... basically I want AS SMALL of brakes as I can get away with. If I can make them lighter and cheaper overall than stock that's a great bonus. I never want more thermal mass than I *need* because it's not as ideal as having "just enough". I currently run ~more or less OEM diameter rotors, they are just a lot thicker with a lot better cooling. They hold up to abuse and have help up to boosted track cars without issue so I just will never see the *need* for huge brakes on these.
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10-11-2013, 01:57 PM | #23 |
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I am curious on opinions (backed up or not) on Cross Drilled and/or Slotted Rotors as and upgrade for stock braking systems.
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10-11-2013, 02:02 PM | #24 | |
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I'll grant slotted rotors can have a purpose but I honestly don't feel that either are an upgrade for a stock brake system. Both remove mass (less in slotted) and introduce stress risers (again less in slotted). Neither are additional features I want in a brake system that is, IMO, borderline for extended track use already. They add some noise as well but my car sounds like a dump truck mixed with a frieght train under braking so I don't care about that. Of course I barely track the BRZ anymore so.. oh well. My dedicated track car and the race car have even smaller brakes.. with sliding calipers.. oh the horror.. err. :shrug:
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Track cars: 2013 Scion FRS, 1998 Acura Integra Type-R, 1993 Honda Civic Hatchback DD: 2005 Acura TSX Tow: 2022 F-450 Toys: 2001 Chevrolet Corvette Z06, 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1994 Toyota MR2 Turbo, 1991 Mitsubishi Galant VR-4 Parts: 2015 Subaru BRZ Limited, 2005 Acura TSX Projects: 2013 Subaru BRZ Limited track car build FS: 2004 GMC Sierra 2500 LT CCSB 8.1/Allison with 99k miles |
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10-11-2013, 02:07 PM | #25 |
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So does mine, and having slots or espeically cross drilled holes are just places for cracks to start in my $15 rotors made proudly in China.
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10-11-2013, 02:10 PM | #26 |
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Speaking of that, I need to go pickup some more mini cooper rotors for the GS-R.. they are ~$30 each :~(
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10-11-2013, 02:11 PM | #27 |
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I personally like the application of slotted helping keep the rotor and pad surface clean. I agree with Dave in that removing a lot of mass from the rotor just hurts thermal capacity. I do love the look of cross drilled rotors but as far as being applicable for performance I stray away from them. Seems to be more of a gimmick than anything (not in reference to Carbon Ceramic Brake which I don't know much about).
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