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Cosmetic Modification (Interior/Exterior/Lighting) Discussions about cosmetic mods. |
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04-18-2014, 11:15 PM | #1 |
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DIY/Post Your Spec-D Headlamp Pics
So here are mine.
Preface: These are NOT FI friendly! Start with removing your bumper and current headlamps http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=8788 Wiring Info for Spec-D Lamps Wires: Headlamp harness (4 wires) Red (+12v), Red/Black (Ground) = These toggle the high beam actuator Blue (+12v), Blue/Black (Ground) = Positive trigger for the low beam headlight. Essentialy these turn the headlight on. Other 4 remaining wires. x2 Black (Ground) - x1 ground for the high beam actuator. x1 ground for the LED boomerang, turn signal and low beam headlight. Yellow (+12v) - Amber turn signal White (+12v) - LED boomerang Do you need a DRL mod? You DO NOT need a DRL mod for these lamps! Those with the FRS can essentially opt to NOT connect the yellow wire if you don't like the amber within the lamp, after all, you have turn signals in the lower bumper. For the FRS, if you want the boomerang to remain lit at all times as long as the headlights are on or the parking brake is dropped, you can wire them to the +12v in the turn signal harness. I'll verify which wire this is tomorrow when I complete the install. The LED boomerang color changes depending on what angle you look at it. I don't believe there is an HID kelvin temp perfect match. Now, how you wire yours will depend on how you want them to function. Personally, I wired my boomerang to the remote wire of the turn signal as well as diode isolated to the parking light circuit. Wiring it this was keeps the boomerang on as a DRL as well as with the low and high beam. Current Setup Winjets HIDs for Spec-D Bulb Installation (bar towards the bottom) Military Splice Ground (No need to connect 2 separate ground wires) D2S Ballasts with wires pulled through grommet https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/...2019.28.35.jpg Clamp these down a little more to grasp the cable tighter to ensure a solid connection Plastic Cap will need to be drilled to run wires Wiring to Switchback (Turn Signal) Testing
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04-19-2014, 07:28 AM | #2 |
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No build thread. I don't want to be reminded of how much money I spent.
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04-19-2014, 10:01 AM | #3 |
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very nice! I should get getting my Spec-D lights soon in the mail
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04-19-2014, 12:39 PM | #4 |
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@ecko04 why are these not FI friendly?
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04-19-2014, 01:18 PM | #5 | |
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Quote:
If you have a system designed for the BRZ then you're fine since it should've been designed with the factory ballasts in place.
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[insert profound quote here] Last edited by ecko04; 04-19-2014 at 03:11 PM. |
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04-19-2014, 01:18 PM | #6 | |
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04-19-2014, 01:34 PM | #7 | |
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Quote:
what does FI mean?
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04-19-2014, 02:55 PM | #8 |
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No build thread. I don't want to be reminded of how much money I spent.
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04-19-2014, 03:24 PM | #9 | |
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Stolen pics from @Jarumie42172 who has a real camera.
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04-19-2014, 03:24 PM | #10 |
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No build thread. I don't want to be reminded of how much money I spent.
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04-19-2014, 04:06 PM | #11 |
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So do these look that purple in person? Or is it more of a white glow?
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04-19-2014, 04:41 PM | #12 |
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Last edited by FRSTRM; 04-21-2014 at 02:11 PM. |
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07-18-2014, 02:04 AM | #13 |
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Kinda need help with this guys, please bare with me. I got the headlights same time as you all but now i just had the chance to installed it on Wed. Long story short got the HID H1 in and after couple mins of messing with the washer, i got it to fit. The long "rod" was upward and the bulb itself on on the bottom if you know what I mean. The output and coverage was quite disappointing, please check and see. Is that what you guys are getting also?
As you can see since the "rod" is above the actual bulb, there is a reflection of it on the wall and also on the ground. Hard to miss it. Should I go get D2S instead? |
07-18-2014, 04:51 AM | #14 |
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