Cosworth Supercharger Owners Thread

[gahooligan]

Originally Posted by botbs

Can you share the link on where can I buy this? Is it this one, Thanks!
http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/velo...l#.W1egKtJKjIU

Yes, thats it. Easy install!

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[gahooligan]

Originally Posted by Greacemonkey

Hi guys, really looking into buying that sweet kit on rallysportdirect but it doesn't specify on their site if it coming with a base map or you get it via internet. Also, I m running a full Tomei exhaust (el header), Matt can you tell me if you tested that header? should I get near the same amount of hp as the nameless?


Thx

Not sure about the EL, probably beyter for top end but I am running the UEL Tomei and Matt was able to tune mine. If I am missing out on HP I really dont care. I love the sound and the Tomei has been good so far.

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[Greacemonkey]

installing the kit and just notice the water pump and tank is missing.. Confirm you've got everything before starting peeps. I was to impatient to start haha.

[BoostTheBrz]

Hello Everyone!


I just installed the kit two weeks ago on a 2018 BRZ. Since then I have been hunting down an issue where my IAT climbs rapidly under throttle, sometimes 10C+ during a single pull.


Things I have tried:
- Check if pump is running
- Check hoses for pinching
- Feel hoses for flow (squeeze for squeaky toy effect with the reservoir)
- Checking polarity on pump (if it was backwards and not running efficiently)
- REPLACE PUMP (mine was not moving water like videos of the same pump showed)


The replacement pump sounded more correct (I helped install another Cosworth kit a few weeks prior to mine too.) and the issue persists....


Any ideas? I had to get a longer hump hose and a different filter for the 2017+ airbox, but Matt gave the all clear on tunes besides the IAT. Could the wiring loom not work the same with the 2017+? I honestly have no idea what it would be at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated.

[weederr33]

Originally Posted by BoostTheBrz

Hello Everyone!


I just installed the kit two weeks ago on a 2018 BRZ. Since then I have been hunting down an issue where my IAT climbs rapidly under throttle, sometimes 10C+ during a single pull.


Things I have tried:
- Check if pump is running
- Check hoses for pinching
- Feel hoses for flow (squeeze for squeaky toy effect with the reservoir)
- Checking polarity on pump (if it was backwards and not running efficiently)
- REPLACE PUMP (mine was not moving water like videos of the same pump showed)


The replacement pump sounded more correct (I helped install another Cosworth kit a few weeks prior to mine too.) and the issue persists....


Any ideas? I had to get a longer hump hose and a different filter for the 2017+ airbox, but Matt gave the all clear on tunes besides the IAT. Could the wiring loom not work the same with the 2017+? I honestly have no idea what it would be at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Could it be possible you didn't bleed the intercooler blocks all the way? Air in the coolant could cause a spike I'd assume? @Matt@Cosworth

[gahooligan]

Originally Posted by BoostTheBrz

Hello Everyone!


I just installed the kit two weeks ago on a 2018 BRZ. Since then I have been hunting down an issue where my IAT climbs rapidly under throttle, sometimes 10C+ during a single pull.


Things I have tried:
- Check if pump is running
- Check hoses for pinching
- Feel hoses for flow (squeeze for squeaky toy effect with the reservoir)
- Checking polarity on pump (if it was backwards and not running efficiently)
- REPLACE PUMP (mine was not moving water like videos of the same pump showed)


The replacement pump sounded more correct (I helped install another Cosworth kit a few weeks prior to mine too.) and the issue persists....


Any ideas? I had to get a longer hump hose and a different filter for the 2017+ airbox, but Matt gave the all clear on tunes besides the IAT. Could the wiring loom not work the same with the 2017+? I honestly have no idea what it would be at this point. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Definitely bleed the blocks, and make sure the reservoir level is correct. My iats will spike After the pull and you close the throttle plate. Normal cruise after getting airflow, they are about 10-15 above what the dash says is ambient. The IAT will drop when you open the throttle and get air moving.are you sure your lines to the Heat exchanger are correct? I have a 2017 as well. The drivers side line runs along the top of the fans and then out beside the radiator. No extra hose needed.

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[sly]

It sounds like you may have a problem with your cooling circuit. First make sure that the bottom hose on the intercooler radiator is feeding the inlet of the pump. You want the coolest antifreeze (which is at the bottom of the radiator) feeding your system.

Next, make sure you don't have the lines backwards on your intake manifold blocks. The outlet of the pump should feed cool antifreeze to the outside of each block. So the out let of the pump will push cool antifreeze to the driver side of the driver side block and the passenger side of the passenger side block. The return lines go to the inside of each block.

If the cooling circuit is correct and you have no pinched lines, then you need to bleed your blocks. This took awhile for me. I actually overfilled the reservoir and drove it for a short while to warm up the engine. Then I unscrewed the 2 bleeder screws on the back of the blocks and removed them completely. Be sure not to drop the screws down into the skid plate under the engine. It's a bitch to get back out. Ask me how I know...

Run the engine with the screws removed and start squeezing the coolant lines. Eventually the coolant will start spraying out the bleeder blocks. The driver's side took longer to bleed. Put the screws back in and then drive it awhile. I had to top off my reservoir for about 2 days as all the foam worked itself out of the system. But then the reservoir stayed clear of foam and I filled it to the proper level. IATs now run low. The coolant is actually cool to the touch.

[BoostTheBrz]

Thanks guys, unfortunately I feel like I've tried all that. All routes are correct, breathers correct, bled my eyes out (though not with the screws all the way out, just long enough for the cut to direct flow). Other things tried tonight with parts from a 2015 cosworth.


- Swapped MAP sensor, no change
- Unplugged pump, heat went up further, returned to normal when plugged in
- Swapped air boxes (and MAF), no change

- Measured external temperatures with a pyrometer compared to the 2015, temps of front of manifold, back of manifold (heat exchangers), radiator, were all comparable. The 2015 is running normal steady IAT temp.

@sly your behavior sounds like what the 2015 is doing (I assume correctly).


The spike does not occur at random intervals (which I would think to be an air bubble). It only happens when on more-than-maintenance throttle, immediately cooling as I let off.

[Rich196]

Originally Posted by BoostTheBrz

Thanks guys, unfortunately I feel like I've tried all that. All routes are correct, breathers correct, bled my eyes out (though not with the screws all the way out, just long enough for the cut to direct flow). Other things tried tonight with parts from a 2015 cosworth.


- Swapped MAP sensor, no change
- Unplugged pump, heat went up further, returned to normal when plugged in
- Swapped air boxes (and MAF), no change

- Measured external temperatures with a pyrometer compared to the 2015, temps of front of manifold, back of manifold (heat exchangers), radiator, were all comparable. The 2015 is running normal steady IAT temp.

@sly your behavior sounds like what the 2015 is doing (I assume correctly).


The spike does not occur at random intervals (which I would think to be an air bubble). It only happens when on more-than-maintenance throttle, immediately cooling as I let off.

Was this a brand new kit? How much driving have you done with it on? I know you dont think you have air in it but you might. Do some hard cornering to shake the bubbles out and see if the level in your coolant tank drops.


I had best success bleeding mine when jacking the rear of the car on the same side a the reservoir. Its crude but if there is a decent amount of air in it then put your ear to the laminovas and you will hear the gurgling and fizzing if there is air trapped. Dont do this after you have driven the car for obvious reasons.

[gahooligan]

I just turned the ignition on and let the pump run while I bled the IC cores.

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[BoostTheBrz]

I have ~400 miles on the kit, have tried bleeding while level, up to having the nose of the car down to where the lip is almost touching. Having bled a correctly functioning car, I don't feel like I changed the process at all and have seen the same behavior from the bleed screws from my car as I did with the 2015 car I helped with.



More info:


The 'spike' isn't technically a spike. There is a steady increase in temps when under throttle and a sharp decrease when off throttle. I get 2-3C gains just from a stop to speed limit speeds, before it cools again.


There is flow to the MAP side of the manifold, otherwise unplugging the pump wouldn't have changed the behavior and increased temps further like it did.

[Rich196]

So we assume the bleeding is good.


Have you got a log of what it happening?


I am assume the longer hose you had to use was the same diameter as the cosworth stuff, and you haven't put any restrictive joiners in?



was it a brand new kit or used??



So you have swapped the map with a good one.


Did you try your map in their car too? This would prove the loom too.


The pump you have changed, and your happy that it performed, did you test them in a bucket of water? if so what was the flow rate?



Have you tested the voltage being supplied to the pump?


Do you have metal t pieces, have you checked they are not blocked?

[BoostTheBrz]

Have you got a log of what it happening?


Yes, I can post the 2D graphs.

I am assume the longer hose you had to use was the same diameter as the cosworth stuff, and you haven't put any restrictive joiners in?

Longer hump hose, same internal diameter, just 2" longer.




was it a brand new kit or used??


New



So you have swapped the map with a good one.
Did you try your map in their car too? This would prove the loom too.

Did not try my Map on the 2015.



The pump you have changed, and your happy that it performed, did you test them in a bucket of water? if so what was the flow rate?
Flow rate on the second pump was definitely better, though I don't have it quantified.





Have you tested the voltage being supplied to the pump?
Voltage is 12V and consistent.


Do you have metal t pieces, have you checked they are not blocked?

No metal T's. Just the provided plastic ones.

[BoostTheBrz]

Logs of temperature behavior