Issue: Monogram Headlights on FRS Base, DRL Triggering HiBeam

[EndlessAzure]

Anyone have experience wiring the DRL for Monogram Headlights on Base FRS? I'm doing it on my 2014, but am running into an issue: The DRL works like factory, but it also triggers the highbeam flap when in the daytime and parking mode. All other functions work normally.



I probed the wires, and found the resistor is wired in series with high beam ground (current passes from source, through the headlight [triggering the flap], exits high beam ground, and is sent to the resistor live). Then, as most guides indicate, you tap into resistor live for DRL power. However, after passing through the headlight, powering the led, and led ground, this also happens to complete the high beam circuit.

• My exact problem is also detailed here by another member, without resolution (www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=87959)
• A deeper technical explanation given here (http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...6&postcount=83)

Am I doing something wrong? Is there an alternate method to get this working without triggering the HiBeam flap during the day?


-----


For reference, I diligently followed these references, which tell you to tap into the DRL resistor.

• Source 1: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=1012406
• Source 2: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...8&postcount=22

[Bach415]

The guide you are using is for the JDM headlights. They have 7 pins opposed to the 6 pins in the monogram headlights. The 7th pin the JDM headlights is to get the constant 12V for the LED strip (hence the tapping into the live wire from DRL resistor in source #1). If I recall properly, the base headlights have the DRL wire within the 6 pin harness (which also bypasses the resistor when high beam is activated). You should be able to just re-pin the headlight harness so the DRL is with LED strip wire of the headlight. When your e-brake is down, then it will activate the LED strip. When you turn on the headlights, the strip will disappear but low beams will be on. If you want the strip w/ the low beam, you might need to add a wire with a resistor from low beam to the DRL (engine harness side). The high beam will still be within the LED strip unfortunately as the DRL on base FRS also acts as a high beam IIRC.


Also please correct me if I am wrong about what I said.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by Bach415

The guide you are using is for the JDM headlights. They have 7 pins opposed to the 6 pins in the monogram headlights. The 7th pin the JDM headlights is to get the constant 12V for the LED strip (hence the tapping into the live wire from DRL resistor in source #1). If I recall properly, the base headlights have the DRL wire within the 6 pin harness (which also bypasses the resistor when high beam is activated). You should be able to just re-pin the headlight harness so the DRL is with LED strip wire of the headlight. When your e-brake is down, then it will activate the LED strip. When you turn on the headlights, the strip will disappear but low beams will be on. If you want the strip w/ the low beam, you might need to add a wire with a resistor from low beam to the DRL (engine harness side). The high beam will still be within the LED strip unfortunately as the DRL on base FRS also acts as a high beam IIRC.


Also please correct me if I am wrong about what I said.

I believe the portion I highlighted in RED is incorrect.

There are only six pins on the FRS Base Headlight Power Connector:

1. HiBeam+
2. HiBeam GND
3. LowBeam +
4. LowBeam GND
5. Parking +
6. Parking GND

HiBeam + is used for DRL power in the FRS. There are no dedicated "DRL" sources. You are probably thinking of the Parking +. It doesn't function as DRL: it only comes on during Parking or Low Beam (i.e. night-time modes). Like you mentioned, if you plug HiBeam+ right into the LED Bar, you can get DRL to work while giving up actual high beam functionality.

Jumping the resistor with a 7th custom wire is required on any version of the headlights (Euro, JDM, or USDM) if you want the DRL LED Bar, because as seen above there is no dedicated DRL source from the harness. Additionally, going through the resistor source also enables you to take advantage of the wiring for actual DRL functionality (e.g. only on with engine, turns off with ebrake).

Therein lies the problem: power for the resistor jumping circuit comes from HiBeam GND (wired in series), after having passed through the headlight. (This is how DRL dimming for stock headlights works on FRS base models). This would be an issue no matter what version of the headlights you have if applying to a base model FRS.

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

I believe the portion I highlighted in RED is incorrect.

There are only six pins on the FRS Base Headlight Power Connector:

1. HiBeam+
2. HiBeam GND
3. LowBeam +
4. LowBeam GND
5. Parking +
6. Parking GND

HiBeam + is used for DRL power in the FRS. There are no dedicated "DRL" sources. You are probably thinking of the Parking +. It doesn't function as DRL: it only comes on during Parking or Low Beam (i.e. night-time modes). Like you mentioned, if you plug HiBeam+ right into the LED Bar, you can get DRL to work while giving up actual high beam functionality.

Jumping the resistor with a 7th custom wire is required on any version of the headlights (Euro, JDM, or USDM) if you want the DRL LED Bar, because as seen above there is no dedicated DRL source from the harness. Additionally, going through the resistor source also enables you to take advantage of the wiring for actual DRL functionality (e.g. only on with engine, turns off with ebrake).

Therein lies the problem: power for the resistor jumping circuit comes from HiBeam GND (wired in series), after having passed through the headlight. (This is how DRL dimming for stock headlights works on FRS base models). This would be an issue no matter what version of the headlights you have if applying to a base model FRS.

Sorry for making it sound complicating. Shouldn't have typed it when I just woke up. Anyway, you got the right idea about the Hi+.



Looking at the monogram connector (8 pin connector w/ 6 pins used)

1. White - LED +
2. N/A
3. N/A
4. Black - LED GND
5. Red - HID +
6. Black 12AWG - HID GRND
7. Yellow - High Beam +
8. Blue - High Beam GND



What you can do is put pair up the LED strip wire(white) on the headlight side with the parking+ wire(white) on the engine side (and tap the DRL live wire to the parking +). Theoretically, you should have the LED strip as DRL from the DRL live wire at that point and when you turn on your headlights, parking + should provide the power to the strip as well so you have it on all the time while DRL turns off.


Also just make sure that you didn't accidentally tapped the Hi Beam + as well as having it paired up with the LED wire on the headlight side.


If the problem still persist then I can only think of something tapped incorrectly or another wire is conflict with something else.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by Bach415

Sorry for making it sound complicating. Shouldn't have typed it when I just woke up. Anyway, you got the right idea about the Hi+.



Looking at the monogram connector (8 pin connector w/ 6 pins used)

1. White - LED +
2. N/A
3. N/A
4. Black - LED GND
5. Red - HID +
6. Black 12AWG - HID GRND
7. Yellow - High Beam +
8. Blue - High Beam GND



What you can do is put pair up the LED strip wire(white) on the headlight side with the parking+ wire(white) on the engine side (and tap the DRL live wire to the parking +). Theoretically, you should have the LED strip as DRL from the DRL live wire at that point and when you turn on your headlights, parking + should provide the power to the strip as well so you have it on all the time while DRL turns off.


Also just make sure that you didn't accidentally tapped the Hi Beam + as well as having it paired up with the LED wire on the headlight side.


If the problem still persist then I can only think of something tapped incorrectly or another wire is conflict with something else.

Yes, you are describing the guides exactly. I've done that already, but it doesn't address my problem: My problem is not to get the LED Bar to work as DRL. My problem is to prevent the HiBeam reflector flap from actuating during DRL mode.

If, at any point, you run the "DRL Live" to ground via the resistor circuit, it will trigger the HiBeam reflector. This is because the resistor circuit appears to get its power straight from HiBeam GND

[EndlessAzure]

See Diagram

I suppose something could be done if you tap from HiBeam source upstream of the connector

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

Yes, you are describing the guides exactly. I've done that already, but it doesn't address my problem: My problem is not to get the LED Bar to work as DRL. My problem is to prevent the HiBeam reflector flap from actuating during DRL mode.

If, at any point, you run the "DRL Live" to ground via the resistor circuit, it will trigger the HiBeam reflector. This is because the resistor circuit appears to get its power straight from HiBeam GND

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

See Diagram

I suppose something could be done if you tap from HiBeam source upstream of the connector

I understand your problem, just trying to narrow down and make sure everything is plugged in correctly and tapped correctly. I usually like to confirm that everything is where it supposed to be before thinking of other possible problems that can cause it.



Which wire did you tapped into the DRL resistor? It should be the 12V+ DRL resistor wire that needs to be tapped (green wire I believe). If you tapped into the HiBeam GND near the DRL location, it might be the reason why it also causes the actuator to go off. Also make sure that the actual resistor is unplugged.


Another thing you can try is to untap that DRL live wire and make sure parking mode (beams & led strips off, side markers tail lights on) work properly as well low/high beam working properly. If so, then I would try connecting the DRL live wire to the fuse box (there should be a 12V connection in there but I am not sure. I've read about people tapping in there for other sources) and see if everything else still functions properly.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by Bach415

I understand your problem, just trying to narrow down and make sure everything is plugged in correctly and tapped correctly. I usually like to confirm that everything is where it supposed to be before thinking of other possible problems that can cause it.



Which wire did you tapped into the DRL resistor? It should be the 12V+ DRL resistor wire that needs to be tapped (green wire I believe). If you tapped into the HiBeam GND near the DRL location, it might be the reason why it also causes the actuator to go off. Also make sure that the actual resistor is unplugged.


Another thing you can try is to untap that DRL live wire and make sure parking mode (beams & led strips off, side markers tail lights on) work properly as well low/high beam working properly. If so, then I would try connecting the DRL live wire to the fuse box (there should be a 12V connection in there but I am not sure. I've read about people tapping in there for other sources) and see if everything else still functions properly.

Yes, its on the DRL live (Green) and there is no resistor.

Again, the problem I'm trying to confirm is whether the DRL Live gets its power from HiBeam GND. I have probed continuity between HiBeam GND to DRL Live and confirmed that when you unplug HiBeam GND, then the DRL stops working. Unless something is wrong with my wiring (which I doubt since all functions are working properly including DRL daytime power, with exception to the HiBeam Flap), there may be an incorrect presumption that the DRL splice really works as intended (to isolate High Beam from DRL)


Are you speaking from experience or quoting the guides?

• If you have the lights on the car yourself, have you tried toggling quickly from Parking to Low Beam mode? You can see the unblocked beam momentarily (raised flap - HiBeam enabled), then the flap deactivates (return to low beam) because the relay is getting switched from DRL to Night Mode.

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

Yes, its on the DRL live (Green) and there is no resistor.

Again, the problem I'm trying to confirm is whether the DRL Live gets its power from HiBeam GND. I have probed continuity between HiBeam GND to DRL Live and confirmed that when you unplug HiBeam GND, then the DRL stops working. Unless something is wrong with my wiring (which I doubt since all functions are working properly including DRL daytime power, with exception to the HiBeam Flap), there may be an incorrect presumption that the DRL splice really works as intended (to isolate High Beam from DRL)


Are you speaking from experience or quoting the guides?

• If you have the lights on the car yourself, have you tried toggling quickly from Parking to Low Beam mode? You can see the unblocked beam momentarily (raised flap - HiBeam enabled), then the flap deactivates (return to low beam) because the relay is getting switched from DRL to Night Mode.

I am speaking from both experience and guides. I have installed both my BRZ and JDM headlights myself. The only thing is that I only did the DRL for the BRZ boomerang for a bit (wasn't my thing to have DRL running) but did not do it for my JDM headlights. Did not recall if the BRZ headlights had issue with the high beam actuator as DRL was removed shortly after install (DRL resistor plugged back in but DRL setting turned off in techstream). BRZ headlights should be similar to the monograms as they utilize 6 pins (Not including the 7th one for turn signal).

Now I am trying to think of the possible issue. The more I think about it, the more I feel like you are onto something about tapping the DRL live wire for the monograms/10 series/rs/maybe BRZs. The JDM ones have both a dedicated 12V 3.3W wire for max brightness on DRL, but when going to parking/low beam/high beam, it switches to the dedicated 12V 0.5W for lower brightness (from parking 12V wire) where as the monograms only have one wire for the LED which pushes it at full 12V 3.3W when tapped to the DRL live wire during day mode but getting the 12V 0.5W for lower brightness from the parking 12V during parking/low beam mode.

Again, just to make sure I am on the correct page now, when you go from DRL to parking mode/low beam (stalk option 0 = day mode/DRL, option 1 = night mode/parking mode, option 2 = night mode/parking mode w/ low beams on), it causes the high beam to flash/actuate. If so, then my thoughts are below. If not, please correct.

Thinking back about what you said regarding the HiBeamGND power, I am wondering if it's because that DRL live wire is also connected to the parking 12V wire. As we know both know, the HiBeam 12V/GND is used for DRL on the base headlight. When you switch from the DRL to parking/low beam, the ECU cuts power to the HiBeam 12V/GND and possibly turns on the relay to make the HiBeam work when engaged during parking/low beam. Maybe after switching from DRL to parking/low beam, the parking mode provides power to the led strip and maybe to the tapped DRL live wire as well. If the DRL live wire does not ground the power fast enough, maybe that small boost in power to the from the parking 12V to the tapped DRL live wire is enough to power on the actuator, hence causing it to flicker when going from DRL to parking/low beam.

Since this is a theory, I would maybe try this to confirm it (assuming I am correct about the issue). Unplug/unpin the parking 12V wire from both the headlights (assuming that you tapped the DRL live wire on the headlight side). Switch from DRL to parking mode/low beam (you should not have the LED strip during parking/low beam). If the high beams does not actuate, then we may have found the culprit. Also, if you had tapped the non headlight side for the DRL live wire, then it should cause the high beam problem to happen again, which also helps us find the culprit of it being the wire tapped into the parking 12V.

Possible solution if above is the actual problem (could also be a test), is to unpin the white LED wire from the headlight and have it connected to another constant 12V source and hopefully it does not trigger the high beam actuator. Or have a diode on the drl live wire to flow one way and see if that fixes the problem.

Edit: Also looking at the wiring diagrams, monogram headlights get the power to the DRL differently (not from the high beams like the base FRS). The relay stops the power from flowing into the DRL when going into parking/low beam but if you use the always on module, it looks like it takes the power from the parking 12V and redirects it to the DRL as well.

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by Bach415

I am speaking from both experience and guides. I have installed both my BRZ and JDM headlights myself. The only thing is that I only did the DRL for the BRZ boomerang for a bit (wasn't my thing to have DRL running) but did not do it for my JDM headlights. Did not recall if the BRZ headlights had issue with the high beam actuator as DRL was removed shortly after install (DRL resistor plugged back in but DRL setting turned off in techstream). BRZ headlights should be similar to the monograms as they utilize 6 pins (Not including the 7th one for turn signal).

Now I am trying to think of the possible issue. The more I think about it, the more I feel like you are onto something about tapping the DRL live wire for the monograms/10 series/rs/maybe BRZs. The JDM ones have both a dedicated 12V 3.3W wire for max brightness on DRL, but when going to parking/low beam/high beam, it switches to the dedicated 12V 0.5W for lower brightness (from parking 12V wire) where as the monograms only have one wire for the LED which pushes it at full 12V 3.3W when tapped to the DRL live wire during day mode but getting the 12V 0.5W for lower brightness from the parking 12V during parking/low beam mode.

Again, just to make sure I am on the correct page now, when you go from DRL to parking mode/low beam (stalk option 0 = day mode/DRL, option 1 = night mode/parking mode, option 2 = night mode/parking mode w/ low beams on), it causes the high beam to flash/actuate. If so, then my thoughts are below. If not, please correct.

Not quite. The HiBeam flap is actually always actuated when the DRL is on using the "Resistor Tap" method. I verified by shining a flashlight into the projector while a friend toggled the parking brake. The flap moves as the DRL LED Bar is turning on and off in Option 0 (Day Mode) in unison with the parking brake.

In "Resistor Tap" method, the LED Bar is also running in DRL mode at full brightness in Option 1 (Parking Mode). --> Same HiBeam Flap issue occurs (verified by toggling e-brake), which is why it is especially apparent when you toggle from Option 1 to Option 2. The light turns on faster than the DRL Resistor relay can turn off the flap, which is why the HiBeam blips.

Originally Posted by Bach415

Thinking back about what you said regarding the HiBeamGND power, I am wondering if it's because that DRL live wire is also connected to the parking 12V wire. As we know both know, the HiBeam 12V/GND is used for DRL on the base headlight. When you switch from the DRL to parking/low beam, the ECU cuts power to the HiBeam 12V/GND and possibly turns on the relay to make the HiBeam work when engaged during parking/low beam. Maybe after switching from DRL to parking/low beam, the parking mode provides power to the led strip and maybe to the tapped DRL live wire as well. If the DRL live wire does not ground the power fast enough, maybe that small boost in power to the from the parking 12V to the tapped DRL live wire is enough to power on the actuator, hence causing it to flicker when going from DRL to parking/low beam.

Since this is a theory, I would maybe try this to confirm it (assuming I am correct about the issue). Unplug/unpin the parking 12V wire from both the headlights (assuming that you tapped the DRL live wire on the headlight side). Switch from DRL to parking mode/low beam (you should not have the LED strip during parking/low beam). If the high beams does not actuate, then we may have found the culprit. Also, if you had tapped the non headlight side for the DRL live wire, then it should cause the high beam problem to happen again, which also helps us find the culprit of it being the wire tapped into the parking 12V.

I want to state that it is generally agreed that the resistor must be uninstalled to avoid toggling HiBeam flap during Option 0. I think this is still accurate, so I will proceed without completing the circuit through resistor ground.

Summary of FRS Base-model power modes:

• Option 0: (Day): Parking Power (De-energized)
• Option 0/1 (Day/Parking): HiBeam Power (Always Energized) | LowBeam Power (De-energized) | DRL Relay (series with Resistor) | HiBeam Function (Switch DRL Relay to resistor bypass, Momentary Energize LowBeam)
• Option 1/2 (Parking/Night): Parking Power (Energized)
• Option 2 (Night): HiBeam Power (De-energized) | LowBeam Power (Always Energized) | DRL Relay (Always resistor bypass) | HiBeam Function (Momentary Energize HiBeam)

I don't believe Parking Power is causing the issue, but I will probe the car as you have suggested when I have a chance to get under it next.

Note that USDM headlights (Halogen and Monogram/RS/10S) do not even utilize Parking power. It goes to an empty pin and the circuit is never completed. (This is assuming that it isn't switched/relayed upstream). I have plugged the LED Bar into Parking Power (with no resistor), and the HiBeam flap issue does not occur. Furthermore, I would presume, unless the LED LOW and LED HIGH circuits are fully isolated and relayed internally in the JDM/EURO headlights, that the HiBeam Flap issue might occur as well on FRS Base models.

I think the car still uses HiBeam to power the DRL circuit in Option 1, providing dimmed halogen DRL on the stock lights. Whenever you pull on the light stalk for actual HiBeam for Option 0 or 1, the car simply flips the DRL relay to bypass the resistor. If you look in the engine fusebox and pull the DRL relay, you'll notice it's a 5-pin Changeover Relay.

Originally Posted by Bach415

Possible solution if above is the actual problem (could also be a test), is to unpin the white LED wire from the headlight and have it connected to another constant 12V source and hopefully it does not trigger the high beam actuator. Or have a diode on the drl live wire to flow one way and see if that fixes the problem.

Edit: Also looking at the wiring diagrams, monogram headlights get the power to the DRL differently (not from the high beams like the base FRS). The relay stops the power from flowing into the DRL when going into parking/low beam but if you use the always on module, it looks like it takes the power from the parking 12V and redirects it to the DRL as well.

Yes this is what I'm leaning toward. Unfortunately, as you have noticed, it may be a functional difference in power relaying between the base and Monogram models. As a work-around, I'm thinking of jumping the HiBeam power with a diode upstream of the headlight and not tapping into the Resistor (I have an always-on module I would like to include, which necessitates the diode). This would mean the HiBeam Circuit wouldn't be completed with LED Bar. Also implies that LED Bar will come on when I toggle the HiBeam on any mode

[Bach415]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

Not quite. The HiBeam flap is actually always actuated when the DRL is on using the "Resistor Tap" method. I verified by shining a flashlight into the projector while a friend toggled the parking brake. The flap moves as the DRL LED Bar is turning on and off in Option 0 (Day Mode) in unison with the parking brake.

In "Resistor Tap" method, the LED Bar is also running in DRL mode at full brightness in Option 1 (Parking Mode). --> Same HiBeam Flap issue occurs (verified by toggling e-brake), which is why it is especially apparent when you toggle from Option 1 to Option 2. The light turns on faster than the DRL Resistor relay can turn off the flap, which is why the HiBeam blips.

Edit:I just thought about it and there isn't a flap on the base headlights. Also if the headlight flap is actuating even just from the e-Brake toggle, then it's most likely what you had a theory about. Untapping the live wire from parking 12V might not even make a difference. That also means that the DRL resistor makes no difference in terms of the flap. Only for the brightness.

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

I want to state that it is generally agreed that the resistor must be uninstalled to avoid toggling HiBeam flap during Option 0. I think this is still accurate, so I will proceed without completing the circuit through resistor ground.

Summary of FRS Base-model power modes:

• Option 0: (Day): Parking Power (De-energized)
• Option 0/1 (Day/Parking): HiBeam Power (Always Energized) | LowBeam Power (De-energized) | DRL Relay (series with Resistor) | HiBeam Function (Switch DRL Relay to resistor bypass, Momentary Energize LowBeam)
• Option 1/2 (Parking/Night): Parking Power (Energized)
• Option 2 (Night): HiBeam Power (De-energized) | LowBeam Power (Always Energized) | DRL Relay (Always resistor bypass) | HiBeam Function (Momentary Energize HiBeam)

I don't believe Parking Power is causing the issue, but I will probe the car as you have suggested when I have a chance to get under it next.

Note that USDM headlights (Halogen and Monogram/RS/10S) do not even utilize Parking power. It goes to an empty pin and the circuit is never completed. (This is assuming that it isn't switched/relayed upstream). I have plugged the LED Bar into Parking Power (with no resistor), and the HiBeam flap issue does not occur. Furthermore, I would presume, unless the LED LOW and LED HIGH circuits are fully isolated and relayed internally in the JDM/EURO headlights, that the HiBeam Flap issue might occur as well on FRS Base models.

I think the car still uses HiBeam to power the DRL circuit in Option 1, providing dimmed halogen DRL on the stock lights. Whenever you pull on the light stalk for actual HiBeam for Option 0 or 1, the car simply flips the DRL relay to bypass the resistor. If you look in the engine fusebox and pull the DRL relay, you'll notice it's a 5-pin Changeover Relay.

Edit: Based off of your previous statement from above, it makes removing the DRL resistor kind of useless if you are still tapping the DRL live wire unless you just want the full 12V power and not care about the temporary flash of the high beams. Regardless of removing it or not, the flap is still being actuated if the circuit is still being completed. It's like on the base headlights, if you remove the DRL resistor by default, it shuts off the DRL. If you remove the DRL resistor but extend the wire to something else and complete the circuit, you'll most likely have the full power high beams instead of a low power high beam as DRLs. The only way it's important for removing the DRL resistor is if you are tapping a 12V for the DRL LED strip from another source that isn't the high beam.


Even though the parking 12V is not utilized in stock applications, some people utilizes it to do the always on mod as that provides power when in parking and low beam mode when the DRL is turned off. That's how I have my BRZs and JDMs set to so the boomerang/strip turns on when in parking mode/low beam mode only. No running DRL.

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

Yes this is what I'm leaning toward. Unfortunately, as you have noticed, it may be a functional difference in power relaying between the base and Monogram models. As a work-around, I'm thinking of jumping the HiBeam power with a diode upstream of the headlight and not tapping into the Resistor (I have an always-on module I would like to include, which necessitates the diode). This would mean the HiBeam Circuit wouldn't be completed with LED Bar. Also implies that LED Bar will come on when I toggle the HiBeam on any mode

If you can find another 12V that is only on when the car is on and tap it there w/ a diode, then you will constantly have the LED strip on at full brightness without the possibility of running into the flap issue again (rather than still tapping the hibeam wire of the headlight). I know that the factory optional connector in the cabin has a 12V that is always on when the car is on. Maybe see trace that wire and see if it goes back to the engine bay and tap that one?

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

I completed the wire splice + diode mentioned in my previous message.

Everything works as intended now. Full DRL Functionality. No HiBeam flap issue. HiBeams work at night and have bonus of powering up LED as well for extra visibility.

Plays nicely with my Beatsonic dlm2ep DRL-Always-On module. Something similar could be duplicated on both sides if one has the DiodeDynamics module. The only difference here is that, during parking mode, DRL is on full brightness rather than dimmed.

[kthxbai]

Originally Posted by EndlessAzure

I completed the wire splice + diode mentioned in my previous message.

Everything works as intended now. Full DRL Functionality. No HiBeam flap issue. HiBeams work at night and have bonus of powering up LED as well for extra visibility.

Plays nicely with my Beatsonic dlm2ep DRL-Always-On module. Something similar could be duplicated on both sides if one has the DiodeDynamics module. The only difference here is that, during parking mode, DRL is on full brightness rather than dimmed.

Hi @EndlessAzure, I apologize for bringing this thread back from the head. I have a base 2013 FRS and just acquired a pair of gently used Release Series headlights. Wiring is not my forte and I've tried to follow the diagrams on the forum to no avail when trying to make the BeatSonic always-on module work fully. The best I managed was no DRL function with ebrake down but the LED strip does stay on with the headlight at a dimmer setting. Could you shed some light on what I'm missing when using the BeatSonic module? My goal is to have the DRL function with ebrake down and LED bar on with headlights. Thank you for your time.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

[EndlessAzure]

Originally Posted by kthxbai

Hi @EndlessAzure, I apologize for bringing this thread back from the head. I have a base 2013 FRS and just acquired a pair of gently used Release Series headlights. Wiring is not my forte and I've tried to follow the diagrams on the forum to no avail when trying to make the BeatSonic always-on module work fully. The best I managed was no DRL function with ebrake down but the LED strip does stay on with the headlight at a dimmer setting. Could you shed some light on what I'm missing when using the BeatSonic module? My goal is to have the DRL function with ebrake down and LED bar on with headlights. Thank you for your time.

Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

If you want DRL, you will need to add a new wire:

1. Either through a splice from the DRL resistor power ("traditional method" with high beam flap issue)
2. Or a Splice from high beam power with a diode, to prevent the high beam from triggering at night due to the always-on module (this thread).