DIY BRZ / FR-S Oil Change

[RallySport Direct]

Originally Posted by michaelahess

K&N PS-1004 or HP-1004? What's the diff?

I did not know this my self so I looked it up and according to K&N's site, the only difference is that the PS-1004 has the nut on the end for easier install/removal, and weighs in at .63lb, where the HP-1004 does not have the nut on the end and weighs on at .75lbs. Other than that they are identical according to K&N's site. I wonder if the HP-1004 has physically more filter media(guessing due to the weight) or if the casing of it just weighs more. I am thinking it is only from the casing though from further research. Can anyone chime in with a better answer?

Hope this helps.
Thanks,
Rick

[Bobasaur]

Fumoto makes a new "S" variant of their valves now. So now there's

F108: original, no nipple. (7/8" in length (Only stick out 1/2" more than standard oil plug head.)
F108N: with long nipple (15mm) for attaching rubber hose (1 1/2" in length (stick out 1 1/8" more than standard oil plug head)
F108S: short nipple. (17/16" in length, 5mm nipple)

I'm gonna order a F108S to try it out.

[Jayde]

Originally Posted by Bobasaur

Fumoto makes a new "S" variant of their valves now. So now there's

F108: original, no nipple. (7/8" in length (Only stick out 1/2" more than standard oil plug head.)
F108N: with long nipple (15mm) for attaching rubber hose (1 1/2" in length (stick out 1 1/8" more than standard oil plug head)
F108S: short nipple. (17/16" in length, 5mm nipple)

I'm gonna order a F108S to try it out.

Yup, I recall a member on here having the F108S and he reported no problems with it sitting below the skid plate.

[RallySport Direct]

Thanks Bobasaur and Jayde, great info!

Rick

[FR-S,M.D.]

Originally Posted by jarviz

anybody found the drain plug to be extremely tight? I think I might have worn the edges on mine trying to loosen it. I stopped and hoped I didn't do too much damage. I'll bring it to a mechanic tomorrow and hope they can open it. Can they replace the bolt/plug with a new one?

Changed my oil at 2000K today for ENEOS 0W-20. Drain plug came off easily. Just a firm tap on the wrench to loosen. You sure you using the right size wrench (or a good quality wrench)?

[Napoleon]

Originally Posted by FR-S,M.D.

Changed my oil at 2000K today for ENEOS 0W-20. Drain plug came off easily. Just a firm tap on the wrench to loosen. You sure you using the right size wrench (or a good quality wrench)?

I had the same issue as jarviz. I bought a new 14mm wrench in the hopes that I could loosen up the drain plug, but it still did not work. Finally I decided to use a ratchet with a 14mm drive socket and it worked. I had to tap the drive socket into the drain plug first to cover the nut, and then I attached the ratchet to that drive socket. I was not sure whether the nut was a hairline larger than my drive socket, or vice versa, or that it is still new. The drain plug did got stuck in the drive socket though after I unscrewed it. I tapped it out. Our drain plugs might have been over torqued.

[Splat]

Originally Posted by Napoleon

I had the same issue as jarviz. I bought a new 14mm wrench in the hopes that I could loosen up the drain plug, but it still did not work. Finally I decided to use a ratchet with a 14mm drive socket and it worked. I had to tap the drive socket into the drain plug first to cover the nut, and then I attached the ratchet to that drive socket. I was not sure whether the nut was a hairline larger than my drive socket, or vice versa, or that it is still new. The drain plug did got stuck in the drive socket though after I unscrewed it. I tapped it out. Our drain plugs might have been over torqued.

Napoleon, the reason it got stuck in your socket is that when the open wrench was slipping on it, it created basically bumps for stripping the head. So, you had to tap the socket on to get passed the bumps, tightness, and obviously tap it out. You should use the socket from now on and you probably will not have anymore problems.

[michaelahess]

I always use sockets, never an issue. Now I have Fumoto Valves so it's never going to be needed again!

[RAWR BRZ]

Quick question, is it fine if I only lift the front by driving up the ramp to do an oil change? So basically like jacking up only the front. Or should I drive up ramp/jack up front, then jack up the back so they are leveled. I will be using jack stands of course. Ive been jacking up all four corners for oil changes and imo if all i need to do is just drive it up a ramp and no need to lift the back then thats so much easier...

[RallySport Direct]

Originally Posted by RAWR BRZ

Quick question, is it fine if I only lift the front by driving up the ramp to do an oil change? So basically like jacking up only the front. Or should I drive up ramp/jack up front, then jack up the back so they are leveled. I will be using jack stands of course. Ive been jacking up all four corners for oil changes and imo if all i need to do is just drive it up a ramp and no need to lift the back then thats so much easier...

I would assume the ideal way is to keep it level, but I figure since the plug is near the rear of the pan, having the front elevated may actually help remove a bit more oil compared to having it on a perfectly level surface.

Thanks,
Rick

[OrbitalEllipses]

A pressure bleeder would do nicely. I purchased a Motive Products pressure bleeder to do one man brake fluid changes, works like a charm. I imagine pushing oil out the engine (or even a vacuum bleeder) would be the IDEAL way to get all the oil out and the most fresh oil in.

[bjhines]

The OP had a good replacement using a magnetic plug. It does not help with a real problem but it might help diagnose issues.

WOW! you guys can make this WAY over complicated. It is an oil change for god's sake. I have a dry sumped SBC track car and I don't put this much thought into an oil change. Use a 6 point socket and remove the drain plug like a man. The Fuckyermoto valve is ridiculous. Why would you add another point of failure to a beautifully simple drain plug. It is not like you change the oil every day at the track... get some fuzzy dice while your at it.

The filter is inverted... wet the element with a small amount of oil and screw it on... no need to fill it up at all. You are just going to dump oil all over the place.

[michaelahess]

Originally Posted by RAWR BRZ

Quick question, is it fine if I only lift the front by driving up the ramp to do an oil change? So basically like jacking up only the front. Or should I drive up ramp/jack up front, then jack up the back so they are leveled. I will be using jack stands of course. Ive been jacking up all four corners for oil changes and imo if all i need to do is just drive it up a ramp and no need to lift the back then thats so much easier...

This matters not, the only thing to be aware of is checking level after on level ground. I never fill to "full" while on the ramps, just put in a quart less than it should take. Drive off the ramps to a flat spot, let it sit a bit, check and fill as needed.

Actually never heard of anyone lifting their car at all four corners to do an oil change before unless they had a lift.

[michaelahess]

Originally Posted by bjhines

The OP had a good replacement using a magnetic plug. It does not help with a real problem but it might help diagnose issues.

WOW! you guys can make this WAY over complicated. It is an oil change for god's sake. I have a dry sumped SBC track car and I don't put this much thought into an oil change. Use a 6 point socket and remove the drain plug like a man. The Fuckyermoto valve is ridiculous. Why would you add another point of failure to a beautifully simple drain plug. It is not like you change the oil every day at the track... get some fuzzy dice while your at it.

The filter is inverted... wet the element with a small amount of oil and screw it on... no need to fill it up at all. You are just going to dump oil all over the place.

Less tools and crazy quick to do it. Less mess as well, never mastered the removal of a drain plug without getting oil all over my hand.