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Old 04-21-2014, 02:19 AM   #29
retrosmiths
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Sorry, I'm just really confused by the purpose of this mod.

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.
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Old 04-21-2014, 02:45 AM   #30
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Sorry, I'm just really confused by the purpose of this mod.

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.
air flow to….whatever. I his case an oil cooler
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Old 04-21-2014, 08:00 AM   #31
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Sorry, I'm just really confused by the purpose of this mod.

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.
On top of my oil cooler, my car has a Full Blown Motorsports turbo kit. It gets a LOT hotter in the engine bay. So any kind of additional airflow helps.

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Old 04-21-2014, 12:07 PM   #32
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Oh, ok. I thought it was some sort of faux brake duct before lol.

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.
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Old 04-21-2014, 12:20 PM   #33
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Oh, ok. I thought it was some sort of faux brake duct before lol.

Sent from my phone. Might have typos. Sorry.
It very well could be adapted to be brake ducts by adding some tubing on the inside and directing it at the rotors.

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Old 04-24-2014, 01:56 PM   #34
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this looks great would love to do something similar to my BRZ when I get an oil cooler for the summer
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Old 05-24-2014, 09:13 AM   #35
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Here is another potential twist on this DIY...purchase the side grills from Grillcraft and adapt to fit your needs:

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Old 05-24-2014, 10:46 AM   #36
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DIY: Making Air Vents Out Of The OEM Fog Light Bezels

So, on the driver side the opening is in front of the windshield washer fluid tank, and on the passenger side it is in front of the wheel well lining unless oil cooler or something else is installed there. Wonder if air going through the opening on the passenger side, at highway or track speeds, with nothing but the lining behind it, would push on the lining and deform it, causing tire rub? I had APR CF duct pieces installed and a bracket for a trans cooler pump right behind the opening, and had some wheel rub near full lock. May have been the bracket that caused the rub as it pushed against wheel well liner, don't know. Had both trans cooler and APR pieces taken out since and no more rub. In the OP application, doubt it would be an issue with the rad behind the hole.

I have the big center grille from Grillcraft to protect SC cooler, oil cooler and Koyo rad behind them, since it has smaller openings than stock grille. Bought the small side pieces also but won't install them since a new plastic piece with LED strips (DRL) is going in next week.

Just an FYI

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Old 05-24-2014, 09:41 PM   #37
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How much space is there between your oil cooler and the bezel? I was planning to modify one of these to provide the most possible airflow to the oil cooler, but a worried that there may not be enough room for it:

The shroud/duct is 6" deep.
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Old 05-25-2014, 12:09 PM   #38
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So, on the driver side the opening is in front of the windshield washer fluid tank, and on the passenger side it is in front of the wheel well lining unless oil cooler or something else is installed there. Wonder if air going through the opening on the passenger side, at highway or track speeds, with nothing but the lining behind it, would push on the lining and deform it, causing tire rub? I had APR CF duct pieces installed and a bracket for a trans cooler pump right behind the opening, and had some wheel rub near full lock. May have been the bracket that caused the rub as it pushed against wheel well liner, don't know. Had both trans cooler and APR pieces taken out since and no more rub. In the OP application, doubt it would be an issue with the rad behind the hole.

I have the big center grille from Grillcraft to protect SC cooler, oil cooler and Koyo rad behind them, since it has smaller openings than stock grille. Bought the small side pieces also but won't install them since a new plastic piece with LED strips (DRL) is going in next week.

Just an FYI
Interesting. I haven't experienced any issues with that.

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Old 05-25-2014, 12:24 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by OjiGeorge View Post
How much space is there between your oil cooler and the bezel? I was planning to modify one of these to provide the most possible airflow to the oil cooler, but a worried that there may not be enough room for it:

The shroud/duct is 6" deep.
Hmmm. I'll have to go look. I have a feeling you might have issues getting that in there. There's not much space. Then again, I was surprised I was able to get the 19 row oil cooler in there at all. Lol. The only thing might be the turn signal bulb on the inside gets really close to the oil cooler nozzle on the top of the cooler.



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Old 05-25-2014, 06:32 PM   #40
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Usually I'd just pop the bumper cover off and look, but with front splitter attached it's no longer a 5 min process.

I'll probably buy the core, mount it up and reassess. It would be great to have a ducting kit for this. Might be time I learn how to lay CF and make something for the community.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:19 AM   #41
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Why don't you guys just use RTV, takes time to cure but man, does it hold like a champ! we use it on our helicopter turbine engine sensors when we need to seal them up from getting moisture and water into them.
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Old 05-27-2014, 08:32 AM   #42
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Why don't you guys just use RTV, takes time to cure but man, does it hold like a champ! we use it on our helicopter turbine engine sensors when we need to seal them up from getting moisture and water into them.
Never heard of it. Thanks for the suggestion! Maybe someone can give it a try and post their experience with it. I'm going to be redoing mine with JB Plastic Weld here shortly. I already purchased it.

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