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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 08-24-2014, 12:04 AM   #29
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I'm considering purchasing actual camber adjustment bolts to get a bit more camber. Some questions:

Do they actually provide a reasonable amount of camber? For example, the Whiteline kit is only advertised at 1.75*.

Is there a particular kit that you guys prefer, or recommend?

What is the max camber I should shoot for on a car that is still driven on the street?
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:48 PM   #30
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Trying to decide where to go from here on modifying the car to be "better" and more reliable at the track. Here is the short list of what I have on the car so far:

Engine/Cooling
Stock

Brakes
Carbotech XP10/XP8
StopTech Braided Lines
GrimSpeed MC Brace
ATE SuperBlue (switching to Motul RBF600)

Suspension/Steering/Tires
Perrin Solid Steering Rack Mounts
Bridgestone RE-11A Tires (215/45/17)
Enkei RPF1 Wheels


At this point, I'm not sure where I want to go next. Things in mind are brake ducting/cooling, oil cooler, and RSR Coilovers. I'd really like an oil cooler, but nervous about warranty issues should I run into a problem. I know there are a million swaybars and braces available, but I haven't seen any hard convincing data that they are worth my time. The RSR Coilovers seemed promising and designed exactly for what I'm interested in. I haven't seen any brake fade yet at tracks like Autobahn or Road America, but as I learn to drive harder/faster...I'd like to be on top of the brake setup and head off any potential issues.

I'm very particular about the parts I put on the car and try not to hurt the balance or put on unnecessary braces, sways, etc. Willing to discuss this if there is good information out there from more experienced folks.

What do you guys think?
IMO (as in I tried them) - skip the swaybars. No real noticeable benefit although I was technically a few ticks faster with them (within standard deviation though so inconclusive).

The RSR coil overs are good (I have some) but if you're going to be doing lots and lots of HPDEs I'd recommend putting the money into brakes and tires first, then going for something beefier and more adjustable in the coil over department such as RCE Tarmac 2s or similar.

Again, that's if you're going to be doing lots and lots of HPDEs.
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Old 08-24-2014, 06:39 PM   #31
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Originally Posted by Apex_BRZ View Post
I'm considering purchasing actual camber adjustment bolts to get a bit more camber. Some questions:

Do they actually provide a reasonable amount of camber? For example, the Whiteline kit is only advertised at 1.75*.

Is there a particular kit that you guys prefer, or recommend?

What is the max camber I should shoot for on a car that is still driven on the street?
Reasonable? That depends on what you want. You'll need camber plates for real adjustability.

We keep our car between -3 and -4 front, even for street use.
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:09 PM   #32
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Reasonable? That depends on what you want. You'll need camber plates for real adjustability.

We keep our car between -3 and -4 front, even for street use.


I'm trying to find out what kind of camber I can get out of the bolts. for example, if I can get 2-2.5....ill do it. if they'll give me only close to what I have now, theres no point.


What kind of camber can I get with just camber bolts and which kit is recommended?
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:14 PM   #33
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Crash bolts only in the upper hole will get you about -1.5* max. To get more with only bolts you need:

- to slot the upper holes.
- use eccentric bolts in the bottom holes as well as crash bolts in the upper hole.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:45 PM   #34
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Crash bolts only in the upper hole will get you about -1.5* max. To get more with only bolts you need:

- to slot the upper holes.
- use eccentric bolts in the bottom holes as well as crash bolts in the upper hole.


So, use the actual camber bolts in the bottom and keep the crash bolts in the top?


Not sure I want to go that route. In that case ill probably just get what I can out of the crash bolts and leave the camber alone until I get actual camber plates.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:12 PM   #35
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I'm trying to find out what kind of camber I can get out of the bolts. for example, if I can get 2-2.5....ill do it. if they'll give me only close to what I have now, theres no point.


What kind of camber can I get with just camber bolts and which kit is recommended?
It depends on your ride height, but unless you're dropped a lot, you won't get what you truly need for the track.

Use it anyways in the meantime; it'll reduce outer shoulder wear.
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Old 08-25-2014, 09:41 PM   #36
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So, use the actual camber bolts in the bottom and keep the crash bolts in the top?
Correct. A couple of people have done it.
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Old 08-25-2014, 10:28 PM   #37
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It depends on your ride height, but unless you're dropped a lot, you won't get what you truly need for the track.

Use it anyways in the meantime; it'll reduce outer shoulder wear.

Still wondering what camber I'll get with actual camber bolts vs crash bolts. Looking for a direct response on this so I can decide if its worth it to even get them over the crash bolts I already installed. I don't want to mix camber and crash bolts.


Camber bolts: What is the camber range they provide when used in the top hole?
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Old 08-26-2014, 04:00 AM   #38
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Still wondering what camber I'll get with actual camber bolts vs crash bolts. Looking for a direct response on this so I can decide if its worth it to even get them over the crash bolts I already installed. I don't want to mix camber and crash bolts.


Camber bolts: What is the camber range they provide when used in the top hole?
Stock height? Maybe -1.3
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Old 08-26-2014, 04:37 AM   #39
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oil cooler is highly recommend, even my car didn't have this right now. But I will install it when my new bumper is arrived
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Old 08-26-2014, 08:22 AM   #40
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Stock height? Maybe -1.3
Bummer. I won't bother with them then. Thanks Mike!
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Old 08-26-2014, 09:25 AM   #41
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Bummer. I won't bother with them then. Thanks Mike!

1.3 is better than nearly zero... and they cost 5 bucks
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Old 08-26-2014, 06:06 PM   #42
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1.3 is better than nearly zero... and they cost 5 bucks

I'm currently using crash bolts at exactly -1.3*.


Was hoping to get more out of it by swapping them out with a true camber bolt kit.
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