Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[PitViper]

Originally Posted by riboyster

Not too sure about that man. I'm pretty sure even the 210 has bent rods in full boost at low RPM.

Can confirm, rods don't like 12psi. There's already initial stresses from being supercharged and then adding boost pressure on top of oem compression does not make a cheap martini when something goes wrong. And a lower compression is just going to increase need for air which is already maxed on our cars (without going crazy high boost) so we would actually get less power on a lower compression with less boost, and our stresses at low rpms would be higher from the increased throttle needed to compensate for the lack of power. (Amazing what you learn when your motor goes boom) :/

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[Dennett_]

I bought an frs with a 210 sprintex supercharger on it and I was just wondering how often should I change the oil and coolant and what oil and coolant to use. Also is there any other maintenance I need to be doing. Thanks!

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by Dennett_

I bought an frs with a 210 sprintex supercharger on it and I was just wondering how often should I change the oil and coolant and what oil and coolant to use. Also is there any other maintenance I need to be doing. Thanks!

oil in car every 3,500-8,000k or so with monthly checks
coolant...I think ours is rated for 100k or something, but probably change it cause it's cheap+easy
supercharger oil-CHECK WEEKLY, until you know how much it uses/eats. Some of us don't have any real problems with the sc eating oil, some do. I think the "change" interval is 15k or something like that, but most of us do it way more often than that. You will at the very least need to check it monthly. But check weekly as I mentioned until you know its habits.

[Dennett_]

Originally Posted by continuecrushing

oil in car every 3,500-8,000k or so with monthly checks
coolant...I think ours is rated for 100k or something, but probably change it cause it's cheap+easy
supercharger oil-CHECK WEEKLY, until you know how much it uses/eats. Some of us don't have any real problems with the sc eating oil, some do. I think the "change" interval is 15k or something like that, but most of us do it way more often than that. You will at the very least need to check it monthly. But check weekly as I mentioned until you know its habits.

Sweet thanks man!

[brybot]

Hey guys, I know these have been asked before but I'm not able to find direct answers. If anyone can direct me to them, feel free in lieu of answering yet again.

My 210 non-IC unit is eating oil like crazy. Has a 72.5 mk7 pulley but I only DD, and honestly not that aggressively. It's venting oil out the sight glass and out of the JBP oil catch can. Anything I can do to mitigate these even a little?

According to the instructions, it takes 157 mL exactly. Once the SC is leveled, is 157 mL below or right at the line on the dipstick?

Thanks!

[riboyster]

Originally Posted by brybot

Hey guys, I know these have been asked before but I'm not able to find direct answers. If anyone can direct me to them, feel free in lieu of answering yet again.

My 210 non-IC unit is eating oil like crazy. Has a 72.5 mk7 pulley but I only DD, and honestly not that aggressively. It's venting oil out the sight glass and out of the JBP oil catch can. Anything I can do to mitigate these even a little?

According to the instructions, it takes 157 mL exactly. Once the SC is leveled, is 157 mL below or right at the line on the dipstick?

Thanks!

What I do (and this is by no means a proven/evendoesanything fix) is get the SC up to temp, then loosen the dipstick to relieve SC gearbox air pressure. Secure the dipstick back on there after.

My theory is that it keeps the gearbox at ~atmospheric pressure when hot, and under light vacuum when cold.
Could be complete bullshit though. Worth a shot. Seemed to stop my weeping probs.

[riboyster]

Gents, is anyone else seeing IAM drop with these hotter days? I want to chalk it up to higher ambient temps (I tuned in the winter time at ~30F cooler), but something in me is doubtful. Double checked all vacuum, seems fine. Anyone seeing the same thing?

FYI IAM was down around 0.88 today after a pull in 90ish degree weather. It's been falling for several weeks, though.

[Kodename47]

A lower airflow reading would have the knock on affect of lower load readings and therefore more advanced ignition timing. Just be careful with idle logs as the values given depend on warm-up situation, I'm assuming no changes in tune? If not, then MAF voltage is a better indicator.

It's still not easy to determine the effect of IAT on CAT especially on the non-IC where we have no data.

[riboyster]

Thanks for the response. After pulling some logs and double checking my connections and MAF sensor, I've hacked it up to a change in driving habit. I have a knocky spot in an area that I never used to use (~0.6g/rev @ low 3000's). I've also identified some positive FLKC areas I can use to add timing back in.

Hope you all are well.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by riboyster

I've also identified some positive FLKC areas I can use to add timing back in.

I tend to ignore positive FLKC as you're only getting it due to IAM of less than 1 where it's trying to restore timing. You're better off just looking into the region that's causing negative FLKC/FBKC or the IAM to drop.

[xjohnx]

anyone know where i can download the Sprintex EcuTek Basemap?

[sam69]

Thinking of getting a Grams 72mm throttle body for the toy and was wondering if anyone with the 210 intercooled has done this and was it worthwhile.

Figured it would have to help especially at the top end as being able to draw air in easier .

Any thoughts ?

[xjohnx]

Originally Posted by sam69

Thinking of getting a Grams 72mm throttle body for the toy and was wondering if anyone with the 210 intercooled has done this and was it worthwhile.

Figured it would have to help especially at the top end as being able to draw air in easier .

Any thoughts ?

when i checked with bill and zach at delicious tuning about this, i was told don't waste my money.

[sam69]

Originally Posted by xjohnx

when i checked with bill and zach at delicious tuning about this, i was told don't waste my money.

Mmmm that surprises me somewhat as I thought the less restriction you have when sucking air through an opening the better and as the more restrictive it is the more heat generated for a given boost pressure.

I could understand that reasoning with say a turbo as it is far easier to compress / push a set quantity of through say a TB / opening than pull/suck the same quantity through the same TB / opening .

From what I understand the more energy required to pull that air through the opening the more heat generated so the Grams TB should be a benefit in this (Sprintex) application .