MotoIQ: Tech Look at FR-S Underside - Suspension, Chassis, Brakes, Differential

[subatoy]

I don't understand what's all the whinning with the 5x100 bolt pattern.
Every freaking Rota wheel comes with that pattern and they
make knock-offs of every freaking wheel out there.
They have an amazing selection of wheels.

[Dave-ROR]

He never said that they were the only wheel, only that they had a lot of options for the bolt pattern.

edit: Hachi is ninja modding, removed most of the post.

[JDLM]

Originally Posted by subatoy

I don't understand what's all the whinning with the 5x100 bolt pattern.
Every freaking Rota wheel comes with that pattern and they
make knock-offs of every freaking wheel out there.
They have an amazing selection of wheels.

I can't support a co. that can't have an individual thought and has to copy off of others hard work.

[NESW20]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

What about calipers? Or were you saying still with stock brakes? I only plan on switching fluid and pads for track use, nothing else.

this x eleventybillion.

Originally Posted by old greg

GT-Pentium or GTFO.

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

It's not. That's been my point for awhile

yep, i'm in the same boat as you. my MR2 has the weeniest brakes ever put on the SW20 chassis, yet with just some decent pads and fluid, it stops plenty hard enough. not sure why people are SO fascinated with putting the biggest brakes in the world on relatively light cars. and if i ever get it back on track and start experiencing fade (which i fully expect on the slicks with 2.5-3 times the horsepower), i'll step up to a more aggressive pad compound.

[Racecomp Engineering]

Jamal on motoiq brought up a good point...on the STI the brembos are on the rear side of the rotor and for the BRZ the calipers are on the front. So it's not going to be as straightforward of a swap as you think (if you want it to work correctly). I have other ideas, but still premature at this point.

- drew

[old greg]

Originally Posted by NESW20

if i ever get it back on track and start experiencing fade (which i fully expect on the slicks with 2.5-3 times the horsepower), i'll step up to a more aggressive pad compound.

When your rotors start turning blue, you might want to think about some ducting as well.

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

Jamal on motoiq brought up a good point...on the STI the brembos are on the rear side of the rotor and for the BRZ the calipers are on the front. So it's not going to be as straightforward of a swap as you think (if you want it to work correctly). I have other ideas, but still premature at this point.

There doesn't seem to be anything preventing just swapping the front calipers left to right.

[Racecomp Engineering]

The issue is the piston sizes are staggered....so you'll end up with nasty pad wear if you swap left to right (which you have to do in order for the bleeder to be on top). Fine for "the look" but not worth it for me.

- drew

[subatoy]

Originally Posted by JDLM

I can't support a co. that can't have an individual thought and has to copy off of others hard work.

unless you have lots of money to throw away thats the only way to go for most people.
I have WAY better uses for the extra $1k-$2k I'll save purchasing
the Rotas vs the original brands.
I have no need for forged wheels so Rotas are the way to go.

besides if you have that much money there are plenty of wheel companies that will make you a custom set with ANY bolt pattern you
may need so I still don't understand the whine about the pattern.

[NESW20]

Originally Posted by old greg

When your rotors start turning blue, you might want to think about some ducting as well.

haha, yes, blue would clash with my color scheme on the car...

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The issue is the piston sizes are staggered....so you'll end up with nasty pad wear if you swap left to right (which you have to do in order for the bleeder to be on top). Fine for "the look" but not worth it for me.

- drew

I haven't messed with the STI calipers before, but some you can switch the transfer tubes and bleeder to fix that.

[old greg]

Originally Posted by Racecomp Engineering

The issue is the piston sizes are staggered.

Well that does throw a wrench in the works. I suppose the blank bosses will need to be drilled and tapped then.

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

I haven't messed with the STI calipers before, but some you can switch the transfer tubes and bleeder to fix that.

The sti calipers have internal transfers.

[JDLM]

Originally Posted by subatoy

unless you have lots of money to throw away thats the only way to go for most people.
I have WAY better uses for the extra $1k-$2k I'll save purchasing
the Rotas vs the original brands.
I have no need for forged wheels so Rotas are the way to go.

besides if you have that much money there are plenty of wheel companies that will make you a custom set with ANY bolt pattern you
may need so I still don't understand the whine about the pattern.

Tell me something I don't know

You make it sound like forged wheels are the only light weight wheels out there that are right : That is incorrect

You act like ROTAs are lightwieght (well that isn't always the case)

[Dave-ROR]

Originally Posted by JDLM

Tell me something I don't know

You make it sound like forged wheels are the only light weight wheels out there that are right : That is incorrect

You act like ROTAs are lightwieght (well that isn't always the case)

They can be as lightweight as other cast wheels. LW cast wheel don't tend to be lighter than a LW forged wheel (ie a monoblock design like CE28s, TE37s, etc, not a forged 3 piece wheel which tend to be heavy). All performance wheel companies tend to have light and heavier wheels in their lineup.

Lots of weights of wheels are misleading with only one weight provided for a size, but they vary by offset at times too because the hub area can be thicker (my 5Zigen forged wheels are that way, they are forged but the +35s are ~.5 lbs heavier than +42s).

[JDLM]

Originally Posted by Dave-ROR

They can be as lightweight as other cast wheels. LW cast wheel don't tend to be lighter than a LW forged wheel (ie a monoblock design like CE28s, TE37s, etc, not a forged 3 piece wheel which tend to be heavy). All performance wheel companies tend to have light and heavier wheels in their lineup.

Lots of weights of wheels are misleading with only one weight provided for a size, but they vary by offset at times too because the hub area can be thicker (my 5Zigen forged wheels are that way, they are forged but the +35s are ~.5 lbs heavier than +42s).

If you would re-read my post I wasn't saying forged wheels are the end all be all wheel or only process for a light wheel