17+ engine oil temps

[new2subaru]

Originally Posted by TunaNoCrust

Maintenance on a truck and performance on a race car are very different things.

Doing something because it works for you and doing something because research, data, and results indicate you should are very different...you may end up with the same action, but only one of them will tell you how you arrived there.

Thank for for stating your credentials. I guess we should just sit back and take direction now?

I have posted data, mine.


ETA you edited you post lol

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by new2subaru

Thank for for stating your credentials. I guess we should just sit back and take direction now?

I have posted data, mine.


ETA you edited you post lol

My credentials have "example" faintly water marked across the front

[Grady]

Oh shit it is never a good outcome when everyone starts giving out their resumes.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by solidsnake11

I think I read a post on here that Toyota recommends 10w 60 for racing. Why would they recommend no thinner than 60 weight for racing????

Why does most motor specifications recommend thicker oils for summer???

Generic chart is generic.

I saw much wilder pressure fluctuations with heavier oil above 5800 rpm. I haven’t ruled out my pressure sender causing them but I did notice it was worse with heavier oil. Same conditions. Your results may vary.

[tfp]

My engine oil seems to run hotter most .

Vehicle specs in case others can relate:
17 brz limited performance pack.
Mileage at 49,500. DD and enjoy driving twisties.
Delicious Flex Fuel kit
Jrsc C38, jrsc hbp.
Subaru 0-20w oil.
Enkei Ts10 18x8.
Conti Extreme Contact Sports 235/40.
Measured 320whp on DynoJet.

Edit:
Jdl uel catless ceramic header
Borla catback
Verus hood vents

Just last night was driving highway 17 home from Santa Cruz. About a 25mi twisty highway with an 1800 ft elevation peak. Outside Temps were mid/low 60's and I'd say I was around 260 again on e85 with non- spirited driving .

Jrsc Oil cooler install scheduled for 11/13.



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

[7 skulls]

I love these threads. Been reading them all since I joined. I have oil temp/oil pressure gauges installed and have been running UOAs on every oil change. All good so far with no oil cooler but I never push the car beyond 115 C (239 F). Would love to beat the snot out of this engine but watching that oil pressure drop into the thirties makes me think of the spun bearing threads.
Have read lots on the stribeck curve and NASIOC oil threads. My only concern with high temps, high rpm, 0W20 and falling oil pressure at redline, is there enough oil flow to the main bearing to replenish what's being spun out?

[Decep]

Originally Posted by tfp

My engine oil seems to run hotter most .

Vehicle specs in case others can relate:
17 brz limited performance pack.
Mileage at 49,500. DD and enjoy driving twisties.
Delicious Flex Fuel kit
Jrsc C38, jrsc hbp.
Subaru 0-20w oil.
Enkei Ts10 18x8.
Conti Extreme Contact Sports 235/40.
Measured 320whp on DynoJet.

Just last night was driving highway 17 home from Santa Cruz. About a 25mi twisty highway with an 1800 ft elevation peak. Outside Temps were mid/low 60's and I'd say I was around 260 again on e85 with non- spirited driving .


Jrsc Oil cooler install scheduled for 11/13.



Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

stupid question but does ethanol have much effect on oil temps? with my edelbrock and 91 octane i dont think i've ever seen temps past 230 ish, no oil cooler. daily driver and i dont baby it but i dont beat the shit out of it either like some.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by Decep

stupid question but does ethanol have much effect on oil temps? with my edelbrock and 91 octane i dont think i've ever seen temps past 230 ish, no oil cooler. daily driver and i dont baby it but i dont beat the shit out of it either like some.

E85 is actually really good at pulling heat out of the combustion chamber. Don’t know that how that translates to oil temp though.

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by 7 skulls

I love these threads. Been reading them all since I joined. I have oil temp/oil pressure gauges installed and have been running UOAs on every oil change. All good so far with no oil cooler but I never push the car beyond 115 C (239 F). Would love to beat the snot out of this engine but watching that oil pressure drop into the thirties makes me think of the spun bearing threads.
Have read lots on the stribeck curve and NASIOC oil threads. My only concern with high temps, high rpm, 0W20 and falling oil pressure at redline, is there enough oil flow to the main bearing to replenish what's being spun out?

I really enjoy threads like this as well and there is a lot of data. Interesting that you are only seeing pressures in the 30's, are you sure your gauge is reading properly? Where is it located? With 0-20W at high temps, 250F+, I usually see my oil pressure bounce around between mid 40s to low 50's above 6000 rpm. Seems to hold that till redline. My car is set at 7800 rpm. Up until 6000 rpm it builds pressure pretty steadily.

With 5-30 I was seeming the pressure fluctuation start about 5800 rpm. The fluctuation was more erratic but was peaking a little higher, around 53-57 psi max.

The pressure fluctuations at high RPM could be the oil cavitating around my pressure sender, or it could be cavitating the pump. I will know more soon as I am going to pull the timing cover off to reseal it, and while I am there I am going to check the pump for signs of cavitation.

[7 skulls]

[QUOTE=NoHaveMSG;3272938]I really enjoy threads like this as well and there is a lot of data. Interesting that you are only seeing pressures in the 30's, are you sure your gauge is reading properly? Where is it located?

It's a Cusco oil pressure gauge, plumbed into the oil gallery on the front/top of the engine and remote mounted with a short whip. I see high 30's / low 40's anywhere above 110 C (230 F) at 7000 rpm. Hit redline at those temps and the pressure needle falls off the face of the earth, very sudden drop. Maybe it's in my mind, from having read too many of these threads, but at those temps, the engine begins to feel anemic. If/when I buy another oil cooler it will be my third. Had an oil/water, stock-style cooler on it for a few years that didn't do enough. Bought an air/oil cooler that wouldn't stop leaking (off the car after a day).
Are those pressures a problem for a stock engine? No one seems to be able to agree. Maybe or maybe not.

[TunaNoCrust]

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

I really enjoy threads like this as well and there is a lot of data. Interesting that you are only seeing pressures in the 30's, are you sure your gauge is reading properly? Where is it located?

It's a Cusco oil pressure gauge, plumbed into the oil gallery on the front/top of the engine and remote mounted with a short whip. I see high 30's / low 40's anywhere above 110 C (230 F) at 7000 rpm. Hit redline at those temps and the pressure needle falls off the face of the earth, very sudden drop. Maybe it's in my mind, from having read too many of these threads, but at those temps, the engine begins to feel anemic. If/when I buy another oil cooler it will be my third. Had an oil/water, stock-style cooler on it for a few years that didn't do enough. Bought an air/oil cooler that wouldn't stop leaking (off the car after a day).
Are those pressures a problem for a stock engine? No one seems to be able to agree. Maybe or maybe not.

Short answer, no. There are many variables though, I have seen Jeeps I6 get down to 10psi, some even less when idling hot!

To really know you would probably need to do some destructive testing where you drop the oil pressure X amount for X amount of time, and then pull each motor apart to check for sudden increase in wear.

You may be able to drop the engine oil pressure incrementally until you see the engine load increase?

Originally Posted by NoHaveMSG

The pressure fluctuations at high RPM could be the oil cavitating around my pressure sender, or it could be cavitating the pump. I will know more soon as I am going to pull the timing cover off to reseal it, and while I am there I am going to check the pump for signs of cavitation.

Excellent point, cavitation is a cruel mistress.

[ermax]

Originally Posted by TunaNoCrust

Excellent point, cavitation is a cruel mistress.

There are threads on this forum with mods bringing pressures up to 80psi at redline. These threads have pictures of the pump showing signs of cavitation. Our bar straw sized oil pickup tube with near 90 bend in it is one of the issues that is addressed. The other issue addressed is the fact that the #3 and 4 rod journals share a main feed that has no more flow than the other two main feeds supplying #1 and 4.


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135294


http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=131419

[TunaNoCrust]

Originally Posted by ermax

There are threads on this forum with mods bringing pressures up to 80psi at redline. These threads have pictures of the pump showing signs of cavitation. Our bar straw sized oil pickup tube with near 90 bend in it is one of the issues that is addressed. The other issue addressed is the fact that the #3 and 4 rod journals share a main feed that has no more flow than the other two main feeds supplying #1 and 4.

Good to know, thanks for sharing.

Yeah there are a lot of test out there, and what a great article this was.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134863

[ZDan]

Regarding pressure fluctuations at high rpm, there's a great thread on that. Guy did a ton of good research after losing multiple highish rpm race engines. Solution was a bigger oil pickup tube! If you're running higher than stock rev limit it's a must. I'll probably address that as well before next track season .
I'll look for thread later...

edit: HAHA, Chuck already linked it above ^^^
Here it is again:
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=134863