Safely Jacking and Supporting Your BRZ/FR-S

[Phaedrus29]

Drive up on some wood boards to give your jack a little more clearance?

[xwd]

Yeah I was going say if you have ramps you can just drive up the ramps and then jack it up otherwise just put down a couple 2x4s.

[sa1126]

4x4's would be perfect...thanks for the idea. all I really need is another inch or so of clearance.

[JimmyMac]

I just picked up the Harbor Freight one this weekend. It is awesome! I had to do a spring install on my car. My cheapo jack could reach under the car to jack it up at non lowered height, BUT it could not jack the car up high enough to put jack stands under the side rails. The Harbor Freight jack one will jack the car up to almost 2 feet high and still slide in and out from the front of the car after it has been lowered. I also use a hockey puck in the center of the jack. The jack was well worth the money and less expensive than a lot of other jacks out there. Oh, and it is heavy!

[Phaedrus29]

Originally Posted by JimmyMac

I just picked up the Harbor Freight one this weekend. It is awesome! I had to do a spring install on my car. My cheapo jack could reach under the car to jack it up at non lowered height, BUT it could not jack the car up high enough to put jack stands under the side rails. The Harbor Freight jack one will jack the car up to almost 2 feet high and still slide in and out from the front of the car after it has been lowered. I also use a hockey puck in the center of the jack. The jack was well worth the money and less expensive than a lot of other jacks out there. Oh, and it is heavy!

Which springs did you go with? Thoughts so far?

[JimmyMac]

Originally Posted by Phaedrus29

Which springs did you go with? Thoughts so far?

So as to not take it off topic... here is the link to my response.. http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showt...280#post433280

During the install with this jack (Harbor Freight 2ton low profile), I think I still had an inch or more room from the lowest part of the body/panels in the front. So it should come in handy for those with coilovers. As stated before, I used a hockey puck on the jack to gain extra grip and as not to scratch up the underside with metal on metal contact. Plus the hockey puck is solid rubber, so it will conform/give slightly to the surfaces. I have another hockey puck and I may cut a slit in it so that I may jack the car up under the rails without scratching off the underside paint. Plus I'm going to get jack stand rubber caps. I already ordered touch up paint to repair the paint scratched off from my jack stands. I posted this on another thread, but here is the car up on stands. Anyways, the jack is nice and quick. It even has a foot pump as well. I like it.

[Hawk77FT]

What I would recommend, just to be extra safe, I would take the wheels off and place them half under the car. If the car falls due to various reasons, there is something there to stop it. I would rather end up with a broken wheel than a broken sternum/ribs or maybe seriously injured!
Just saying!

[mezdup]

Originally Posted by Wepeel

The Harbor Freight 3 Ton jackstands have a notch deep enough to clear the pinch welds (they're actually orange and white):

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-h...nds-38846.html

these are on sale at the moment for $16 per pair with this code: 84409788. pretty good deal.

[jflogerzi]

Guy would this jack and stands work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/low-pro...eel-68049.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-h...nds-38846.html

I want to install my perrin catback exhaust. Rather then pay a shop, this would be a good learning experience. Also to install the exhaust I should only need to jack up the rear correct?

[mezdup]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Guy would this jack and stands work?

http://www.harborfreight.com/low-pro...eel-68049.html

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-ton-h...nds-38846.html

I want to install my perrin catback exhaust. Rather then pay a shop, this would be a good learning experience. Also to install the exhaust I should only need to jack up the rear correct?

yep that would be good. those jack stands are great, i used them for my install. see if that coupon code i posted above still works for those jack stands, saves a good amount of money. and yea that jack would work fine, but you'd have to have the rear jacked up pretty high to be able to install a catback i'd imagine. my exhaust was axleback so i didn't have any issues. not sure if you'll have trouble though.

[nzer]

I have the same problem as @Phaedrus29 with jack not reaching before hitting the front lip.

I ordered this one in http://tradecatalogues.repco.co.nz/i...?itemId=301123 and it is pretty low profile but the higher bit towards the handle hits the front lip before it reaches the jacking point. Luckily I tested before buying. It was NZ$160.

I can get one of these in NZ but is NZ$600. Might have to find somewhere that will ship to New Zealand but before I do has anyone used one of these that can confirm it reaches the front jacking point before hitting the front lip?
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/Powerbuilt-647580-Heavy-3-Ton-Profile/dp/B003ULXFD0"]Powerbuilt 647580 Heavy Duty 3-Ton Low Profile Floor Jack : Amazon.com : Automotive[/ame]

@GrimmSpeed if I can't get a trolley jack to fit under the front can I use the scissor jack one side and put on a jack stand and then do the other or will this put too much strain on the scissor jack? I know this is not ideal but neither is $600 for a jack!


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[nzer]

@Phaedrus29 I have lowered 15mm and have the TRD front lip that extends a little more than stock. Do you think the Harborfreight 68050 jack you decided on would still fit under easily enough? I see Harborfreight will ship internationally so would be great to know thanks.


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[Kamran]

For a quick front to back wheel swap at the track, without putting the car on stands and having only one jack, does anyone know the car could/should be jacked up at pinch weld below the door column/rocker (center point between the two pinch weld jack point)? Anyone experienced any damage doing it that way?

[Porsche]

Originally Posted by Kamran

For a quick front to back wheel swap at the track, without putting the car on stands and having only one jack, does anyone know the car could/should be jacked up at pinch weld below the door column/rocker (center point between the two pinch weld jack point)? Anyone experienced any damage doing it that way?

Some people successfully jack the S2000 at the center point between the front and rear wheels, but that is a VERY stiff chassis. They say it is not a problem. Does that mean it's safe for the BRZ? Who knows.

I would not do it. If the unit body, the "frame," bends, you're in big trouble.

Now, here's the good news: You do not NEED to do this merely to change front and rear tires with one jacking. Just jack the car up at the proper front jacking point. Keep cranking that thing up in the air until BOTH front and rear wheels are off the ground enough to make your wheel change.

Modern cars, especially short wheelbase, lightweight cars like our BRZ are very stiff and when jacking the front, the rear will come off the ground, too.

Try it; you'll see. This way you risk nothing.

Alternatively, get a jack like mine from AC hydraulics. It's very long, very low, will reach under any low sportscar, and far enough back to readily reach the front and rear CENTER jack points. Do a site search and find the photos someone posted, or look in your owner's manual. This will lift the entire front of the car, both FRONT wheels off the ground, then go around to the rear and lift both REAR wheels by jacking up with the differential, the pumpkin.

But the latter method obviously won't let you swap front tires to rear in one jacking. It's not clear to me what exactly you're wishing to do here. But one of these two methods will get the job done for you with a single jack.