FRS Break-in guide

[Bonburner]

Hmmm
[ame]http://youtu.be/52Yyo5s9HgQ?t=41m35s[/ame]
that specialized breaking in by nissan for their GTRs .. proper warm up + high revs = win
and yeah i dont like the babying idea too much - definately rev her up throughout the entire band

[GotMunchies?]

Originally Posted by sero901

not to add to the controversy on an old thread but pistons are slightly off circle when cold. Im a aircraft mechanic and when we measure tolerances for pistons going into an engine, they are slightly elliptical. whether they are for this car or not i don't know but i do know there are pistons when become circle and seal better when at operating temperature.

Are you measuring radial run out on the piston relative to the cylinder axis? What kind of measurements do you see? If its anything up to two or three thousands of an inch, I wouldn't consider that "intentionally elliptical," and could arguably be within acceptable manufacturing tolerances.

If I get a round part back from grinding and its within .05 - .07" on runnout, I dance a jig.

Source: Tooling engineer for aerospace industry.

[sero901]

Originally Posted by GotMunchies?

Are you measuring radial run out on the piston relative to the cylinder axis? What kind of measurements do you see? If its anything up to two or three thousands of an inch, I wouldn't consider that "intentionally elliptical," and could arguably be within acceptable manufacturing tolerances.

If I get a round part back from grinding and its within .05 - .07" on runnout, I dance a jig.

Source: Tooling engineer for aerospace industry.

Couldn't find it in the Lycoming manual but i did find a pretty good description in a automotive text book.
Check out expansion controls on page 256.

http://books.google.ca/books?id=vcMW...page&q&f=false

[GotMunchies?]

Originally Posted by sero901

Couldn't find it in the Lycoming manual but i did find a pretty good description in a automotive text book.
Check out expansion controls on page 256.

http://books.google.ca/books?id=vcMW...page&q&f=false

Unfortuantely, I don't have access to that. But I used "Expansion Controls" as a search term and stumbled on this:

http://www.waybuilder.net/sweethaven...Num=3&modNum=1

For the curious, this offers some interesting information on the design of automotive pistons. Thanks for pointing me in the right direction, @sero901

[Shinchu]

Soooo im about to hit 4k on the odo. Original oil. When do i go get it changed?
Other than that i did a nice break in rarely over 6k rpm for the first 1k miles. Ive been gentle but now im hesitant to flog on old oil.
Also hesitant to bring to dealer for change as its a lease with full perrin intake and coilovers. Stupid? Maybe. Fun? Hell yes.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by Shinchu

Soooo im about to hit 4k on the odo. Original oil. When do i go get it changed?
.

What does your service manual say?

[~el~jefe~]

If someone read this thread, and followed 3/4's of the suggestions, they would have a nice bucket of crap metal.

1. 0-20 oil is better than heavier oil. Lighter oil gets to the parts faster and the beginning of a car starting is where the wear is. This is why they are spending billions on engineering over course of a century. 0-20 represents machining and engineering at its finest.
2. Your car engine already has many miles on it. It already had its oil changed before 0 miles on the odometer.
3. this is not 1984 and you are not racing rebuilt street bikes designed to have 1000 miles on them and then crash into a wall.
4. 4000 rpm is your max. Because the engineers are engineers and you are not. Neither is anyone in the links. Also, you are not a group of 200 Japanese mechanical engineers.

this thread should be deleted and people should just follow the instruction manual.

[chipmunk]

I'm getting a new engine under warranty. So I have to resurrect this topic.

What role does ZDDP play to help break-in? I'm thinking either a ZDDP additive, or replacing with High Mileage Mobil 1 0W-20 with 800-900ppm zinc & phosphor within the first 100 or 200 miles.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by chipmunk

I'm getting a new engine under warranty. So I have to resurrect this topic.

What role does ZDDP play to help break-in? I'm thinking either a ZDDP additive, or replacing with High Mileage Mobil 1 0W-20 with 800-900ppm zinc & phosphor within the first 100 or 200 miles.

Do not use additives the idea of break in is actually to create some wear where you want it.
Use the recommended oil it is what the car was designed to use.
Follow the break in instructions in the owner manual they know what they are talking about.
No need to get inventive El Jefe nailed that part back in 2016.

[chipmunk]

Last time I followed the manual break in procedure, there was some oil consumption issue. That is what eventuslly led to this whole engine replacement. A quart of oil every 2500 miles shouldn't be normal.

[Tcoat]

Originally Posted by chipmunk

Last time I followed the manual break in procedure, there was some oil consumption issue. That is what eventuslly led to this whole engine replacement. A quart of oil every 2500 miles shouldn't be normal.

Well do what you want then. You asked I answered. Just wait for somebody that says what you want to hear. They will eventually.

[chipmunk]

Given the arguments going on all over the forums, it won't be long before I hear what I want to hear. But I don't know what I want to hear. I have not seen (m)any credible technical sources with objective evidence. Obviously the argument "they're already broken in at the factory " will not apply to me.

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by chipmunk

Given the arguments going on all over the forums, it won't be long before I hear what I want to hear. But I don't know what I want to hear. I have not seen (m)any credible technical sources with objective evidence. Obviously the argument "they're already broken in at the factory " will not apply to me.

OK, chipmunk, do whatever you want to do.

I have no data to support that.

There ya go -


humfrz

[chipmunk]

That is an infinite loop I can never get out of!