Would I boost this car again if I had the chance?

[ajcarson11]

I would absolutely boost again. I went with an easy setup (Sprintex 210), on E85 flexfuel, with a moto-east tune. I did the install myself, and haven't had a single issue in 30k miles.

I'm likely only making 275-285whp depending on temperature, but that is plenty, especially when you consider that I don't track the car or have amazing roads in rural Indiana. I get to have a bit of fun here and there, and plenty of scream/whine from the SC!

My entire cost of boost for me sits at $2950 (used SC, oil, tune, flexfuel). Amazing value, none of the mess that folks with big power complain over!

... I was a bit scared to post, as now I'll probably throw a rod tomorrow morning. But let's hope everything stays healthy!

[Dom_J]

This feedback is always good. User feedback. Biggest thing I've learned though all of my automobile triumphs and quests is a simple statement.

Happiness is simply your reality vs your expectations. What are we really expecting?

This current group of FT86/BRZ owners is still a large group of individuals who paid $20k+ for the vehicle on average and it stings a bit when weighing in on the performance aspect vs other platforms. I'm extremely excited as the prices plummet because this next wave is going to be the "hoonigans" to stuff the FA24 etc etc in this thing. The "I picked up my brz for $5-$8k crowd." Then there's going to be a huge wave.

It's hard to toss a 60k powertrain warranty out of the window for a few ponies. I think we have to keep the engineering of the vehicles in mind and what it was designed for, its extremely balanced. I watch the S-Chassis so closely because I think this platform is headed down the same path.

There will be a FA STi and there will be a more performance oriented 86/BRZ.

[Irace86.2.0]

I've been boosted since June of this year on a Harrop 1320 TVS SC with the 85mm pulley (12.5-13 psi) on 91 octane with a DT tune. I'm on E85 with Delicious Tuning's Flex Fuel setup now with the same pulley, and I am loving the car. The difference E85 makes on boost is almost as much as the difference between NA and being boosted; it is that good.

I'm pretty aggressive with my driving too; I don't baby the car at all, yet I am not dropping gears from 5th to 2nd, going to 6k rpms while gunning it, or doing hard launches at every light either. Hopefully the engine holds, but I am not worried at this time.

My only safety nets in place are the following (besides the necessaries, DW700cc injectors and DW300c pump): AMSOIL 5w30 Signature Series oil with their oil filter, Forester XT oil regulator/cooler, dual catch cans, and lastly, gauges to monitor pressure and temperature.

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by Jaden

No one brought up power for cost or anything, I responded to someone claiming that if they wanted a car with 300 hp they would buy a wrx or they would like a stock wrx drivetrain in a twin.

I responded that anyone who thinks a stock wrx is vastly superior to a twin is on crack and I will stand by that.

You can say whatever you want. I've beaten a stage 2 cobb tuned wrx on the freeway on e85 and I just stayed straight up, light to light with a new wrx on cali 91 with just a stage 2 tune and a catless header.

Say they're shitty drivers, fine, but they aren't walking a twin all that readily is all I'm saying.

Your WRX is not stock and you're an awesome driver, so it's hard to use you as a comparison.

Jaden

@CSGMike is completely accurate. My wife has an 18 WRX with a Cobb Stage 1 Tune, and I have an 18 tS with Full Exhaust, Intake, and Custom Tune. The WRX is quicker, hands down. It pulls harder and the powerband is much thicker. A Cobb Stage 2 WRX running a J Pipe and Intake would even make a larger difference. With that said, when she’s driving it, it’s probably not faster

But to be fair, my tS is DEFINITELTY quicker than my Crosstrek Stage 0.

While this thread has put the fear of god into me with my upcoming JRSC C30 install, I’m acquiring all the supporting mods to try and run it as safe as possible and then cross my fingers and hope for the best!

Sorry some of you all have had some terrible experiences, but thanks for sharing so the community continues to learn and grow!

[mrg666]

If you stay with the JR or Delicious tune with standard pulley and add an oil cooler, your car will be faster than the STI (91 octane) and as reliable as stock. None of the problems reported here are factory configuration.

Originally Posted by J1Avs

@CSGMike is completely accurate. My wife has an 18 WRX with a Cobb Stage 1 Tune, and I have an 18 tS with Full Exhaust, Intake, and Custom Tune. The WRX is quicker, hands down. It pulls harder and the powerband is much thicker. A Cobb Stage 2 WRX running a J Pipe and Intake would even make a larger difference. With that said, when she’s driving it, it’s probably not faster

But to be fair, my tS is DEFINITELTY quicker than my Crosstrek Stage 0.

While this thread has put the fear of god into me with my upcoming JRSC C30 install, I’m acquiring all the supporting mods to try and run it as safe as possible and then cross my fingers and hope for the best!

Sorry some of you all have had some terrible experiences, but thanks for sharing so the community continues to learn and grow!

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by mrg666

If you stay with the JR or Delicious tune with standard pulley and add an oil cooler, your car will be faster than the STI (91 octane) and as reliable as stock. None of the problems reported here are factory configuration.

I will be running the standard pulley, JR Oil Cooler, JR 4 Bar MAP Sensor, Forge BPV, (potentially) a catch can, w/ a tune from Moto-East.

[mrg666]

Originally Posted by J1Avs

I will be running the standard pulley, JR Oil Cooler, JR 4 Bar MAP Sensor, Forge BPV, (potentially) a catch can, w/ a tune from Moto-East.

I have double catch cans. The crank case side does not collect much, if any, oil. There is mild oil accumulation in the PCV side. JR recommends using the softest spring with BPV. Stiffer springs can provide more immediate boost but they may also cause surge on the compressor buy not opening completely. You can check the MAF reading at idle to make sure BPV is opening. The reading should be below 3 g/s after warm up if the BPV is opening. You can hear the whistle of open BPV. Good luck!

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by mrg666

I have double catch cans. The crank case side does not collect much, if any, oil. There is mild oil accumulation in the PCV side. JR recommends using the softest spring with BPV. Stiffer springs can provide more immediate boost but they may also cause surge on the compressor buy not opening completely. You can check the MAF reading at idle to make sure BPV is opening. The reading should be below 3 g/s after warm up if the BPV is opening. You can hear the whistle of open BPV. Good luck!

Thanks! Planned on using the green spring w/ the BPV. I believe that was what everyone reccomended. Appreciate the heads up on the Catch Cans too!

[Jaden]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

It takes very little skill to go WOT in a straight line, especially in a car like a 15+ wrx that has very tall gears.

If you pulled on a stage 2 WRX on 91, that WRX must have a very poor tune!

A 200whp ethanol NA 86 simply is not competition for a 290whp 91 catless FA20DIT WRX, even considering the weight difference!

200whp/2950lbs (including driver) vs 240whp (stock)/3430lbs (including driver). Even with this ricer math, the WRX has superior power to weight, as well as a much, much fatter powerband.

If you were racing a clone yourself with a stock WRX, i would 100% put my money on the WRX.

As they say, anything can happen on the street, and there are many, many badly running WRX's and untuned WRX's out there. Anyone claiming a "stage" is just a big thumbs down from me.

The stage 2 was on the freeway in moderate traffic and I was on e85, driver skill was involved there.

This last one was a dead stock wrx and I was on 91 with a catless header and stage 2 flex fuel tune.

Jaden

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by Jaden

The stage 2 was on the freeway in moderate traffic and I was on e85, driver skill was involved there.

This last one was a dead stock wrx and I was on 91 with a catless header and stage 2 flex fuel tune.

Jaden

Really — “On the freeway in moderate traffic”. Are you 16 and wishing to live in the Fast and the Furious??

Given that you are still “street racing” in traffic and endangering other motorists your opinions are pretty much null and void. There are endless driving events across the nation where you could accurately test your vehicle and your driving skills, as well as benchmark your vehicle against others.

Stop being selfish and take it to track.

[Irace86.2.0]

Originally Posted by J1Avs

I will be running the standard pulley, JR Oil Cooler, JR 4 Bar MAP Sensor, Forge BPV, (potentially) a catch can, w/ a tune from Moto-East.

IMO, you need good oil in there if you aren't already. Motul, AMSOIL...something that is 100% synthetic and has proper additives to deal with the greater blow by. Either that or get a synthetic blend, and change it out every couple thousand miles. Checking the level of the oil between changes is a good idea too.

It has been debated here, but I would go with a thicker oil too. All turbocharged Subarus use 5w30. If you are heavily tracking the car then 10w40 or thicker may be safer if pressures aren't staying up.

[J1Avs]

Originally Posted by Irace86.2.0

IMO, you need good oil in there if you aren't already. Motul, AMSOIL...something that is 100% synthetic and has proper additives to deal with the greater blow by. Either that or get a synthetic blend, and change it out every couple thousand miles. Checking the level of the oil between changes is a good idea too.

It has been debated here, but I would go with a thicker oil too. All turbocharged Subarus use 5w30. If you are heavily tracking the car then 10w40 or thicker may be safer if pressures aren't staying up.

Thanks! That’s on my list to discuss with my tuner also! I’m running Motul 0W20 now, but was thinking of at least going to 0W30 if not 5W30

[Cal3000]

Everyone is also missing a huge element to motor longevity is not having such sticky tires. Your engine loads will be a lot lower if your wheels are able to slip. High torque at low rpms along with sticky tires is what bends rods.

[DarkPira7e]

Originally Posted by Cal3000

Everyone is also missing a huge element to motor longevity is not having such sticky tires. Your engine loads will be a lot lower if your wheels are able to slip. High torque at low rpms along with sticky tires is what bends rods.

But this is like eating your favorite food with your arms tied behind your back... You'll just look stupid, get messy and regret ordering anything to eat at all after a few bites.

The low rpm load I do agree with 100%