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Old 07-22-2016, 01:24 PM   #15
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Really camber plates are the way to go
Camber is lost when it's needed the most. They look cool but they don't work as well as crash bolts.
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Old 07-22-2016, 01:46 PM   #16
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Not sure about -3+ but I got -2.4 with SPC in bottom and 14mm in top. A 12mm in top would get you more obviously its just a matter of how much.

Really camber plates are the way to go
Unfortunately the default info out there sells people on the 16mm camber bolt, if I could go back in time I would have been more careful and gotten the 14mm lower bolt and done as you have.

My camber is capped at -3.6 with the upper camber bolt (SPC/Whiteline) and the Raceseng CASCAM's, if the lower camber bolt got me an additional -1 degree I'd be happy. I may not need it in the end, but I want the ability to go that high at least.

I've heard rumors of people running over -4.0 for autocross, up to -5 and more, I can't imagine that's ideal but I believe some have tried it.
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:03 PM   #17
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OP, if you are running full Koni shocks, you will also need the lockout washers. Koni sport shocks alone are not CS legal because they allow more camber than stock.

Koni sends the lockout washers free of charge if you call and ask.
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Old 07-22-2016, 02:14 PM   #18
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My camber is capped at -3.6 with the upper camber bolt (SPC/Whiteline) and the Raceseng CASCAM's, if the lower camber bolt got me an additional -1 degree I'd be happy. I may not need it in the end, but I want the ability to go that high at least.

I've heard rumors of people running over -4.0 for autocross, up to -5 and more, I can't imagine that's ideal but I believe some have tried it.
Are you measuring lateral acceleration? I wish I had access to a FLIR camera to watch the tires in real time. Not sure how the pros do it.
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Old 07-22-2016, 03:21 PM   #19
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Are you measuring lateral acceleration? I wish I had access to a FLIR camera to watch the tires in real time. Not sure how the pros do it.
Nope, tire temps are my current guide.

I know they can be easily misunderstood, which is why I fully admit that I may not need what I believe I want right now. But it's not like I'm spending a bunch of money or effort to get the extra camber.

This might interest you, GSpeed was working on datalogging tire temps via an array of IR sensors:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showp...7&postcount=43
Full thread:
http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=90384

There's some videos of F1 cars with FLIR, I have a hunch however that a pyrometer is still the guiding factor because it's stable, consistent, robust, and affordable. I know when we got ours from Longacre we accidentally activated some funky mode, they claimed they had built a few wonky calibrations for NASCAR teams, presumably to prevent their homework from being copied. Who knows how true that is though.

When googling I came across some stuff:
http://www.autosport.com/news/report.php/id/112669
http://www.texense.com/en/produits/w...sport-_73.html


[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oUohIZEyq0w"]Tire Heat On F1 Cars - Infrared Camera - YouTube[/ame]

If you've got the $$$

[ame="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWNNl__Rbmc"]Real-Time Tire Surface Temperature Overlay - VIR TrackDaze HPDE, Izze-Racing - YouTube[/ame]
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Old 07-22-2016, 03:35 PM   #20
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OP, if you are running full Koni shocks, you will also need the lockout washers. Koni sport shocks alone are not CS legal because they allow more camber than stock.

Koni sends the lockout washers free of charge if you call and ask.
Thanks for the tip. Right now I'm on the stock shocks, so I'm good. I'll keep this in mind if/when I upgrade.
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Old 07-22-2016, 04:21 PM   #21
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Camber is lost when it's needed the most. They look cool but they don't work as well as crash bolts.
???

Can you explain?
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:37 PM   #22
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???

Can you explain?
I'll do the best I can with words for now but I'll follow up tonight after I find the thread in which (I think it's Andy?) @Racecomp Engineering wrote up a great explanation.

Consider how the wheel pivots about the strut axis. Moving the top inboard adds negative camber when the wheels are pointed straight ahead. The more the wheels are steered away from straight ahead, the more the camber becomes a function of the caster angle.

Increased negative camber at the hub does not change with steering angle. It's way more complicated than that but described in broad terms, that's pretty much my argument.

Also, here's an old thread that I just found which seems to conclude that the effect in which I base my argument seems negligible because, as steering angle is increased, the decrease in outside wheel camber is much more a function of positive caster than the increase due to SAI. Admittedly, I've been too lazy to do the math myself and my SPC bolts are still sitting on my coffee table.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=48107
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Old 07-22-2016, 06:42 PM   #23
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IIRC the rulebook states that the part must be listed in the factory service/repair manual so only one option to be used as specified in instructed in said manual.

Greatly appreciate the SPC part numbers though, I think I need both to get enough camber for an STX car and the info is a bit buried. -3.0 with just bolts you say... Delicious, I was only getting ~-1.1 with the 16mm bolt in the top hole.

NP When the camber was measured with the camber at maximum I got -3.0 driver side, and -3.2 passenger side without driver.
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Old 07-22-2016, 08:50 PM   #24
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Nope, tire temps are my current guide.

I know they can be easily misunderstood, which is why I fully admit that I may not need what I believe I want right now. But it's not like I'm spending a bunch of money or effort to get the extra camber.
I bet even sticking a go-pro in the wheel well would yield interesting results.

*sigh* $450/wheel for the good ones. They sure are cool, though. Even better than what I was thinking. You can see in the demo video they misaligned something to make the left rear stand out.
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Old 08-08-2019, 06:17 AM   #25
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I am installing OEM camber bolts in my 86 this weekend. Can I reuse the nuts on the car or do I need to buy new nuts?
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Old 08-08-2019, 12:09 PM   #26
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I am installing OEM camber bolts in my 86 this weekend. Can I reuse the nuts on the car or do I need to buy new nuts?
I think they say to replace them, but I don't think anyone ever does lol.

Use the old ones, torque to spec, and you'll be fine.
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Old 08-08-2019, 12:33 PM   #27
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I think they say to replace them, but I don't think anyone ever does lol.

Use the old ones, torque to spec, and you'll be fine.

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