Got a track related question? I'll try to answer.

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by Campo

Unfortunately, I already asked the NASA TT National Director about the paddles, and he said I had to take the +3. He said he had more bad news about the auto: I have to take +3 for non-standard gear ratios...


Makes getting this little sucker competitive a tad challenging - but that's what's so fun!


Yeah, the diffuser is definitely at the bottom of the list. Good thoughts on the Hoosiers though, thanks!




Yeah, and +3 for the gear ratios in the auto...


I'm not totally familiar with the rules around dyno reclassing, but might it be worthwhile to ask after I actually start competing (again, this is like 2016 I'm thinking)? The stock auto dynos around 163 at the wheels as far as I've seen. I'm guessing that with my e85 tune I'm maybe 185-195 at the wheels. I've done zero weight reduction yet and no dyno yet, so I'm not 100% sure where my lb/hp ratio is, but I might benefit from a dyno reclass, no?

This sounds asinine to me. They're going to penalize you for FACTORY paddles with FACTORY gear ratios that are *taller* than the MT?

[DarkSunrise]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

We haven't done enough testing with the OSG unit yet to determine if we want to offer a CSG-spec differential yet. Custom configuration on a OSG starts at $150, and goes up, depending on the labor and parts involved.

For the Cusco units, we know exactly how to set it up based on driving style and setup; we have much more experience with these. The Cusco unit also happens to be cheaper as well. Currently, we configure the Cusco unit for free if the requested/recommended changes are within the capability of the LSD without needing to swap parts.

@ja1217

In case you hadn't seen it. I know you were interested in buying a Cusco LSD, this sounds like a good deal, especially if you wanted to customize settings on it.

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by THEmailman

The manual transmission is considered the base, thus the automatic with the paddle shifters is considered an addition. Its in the exact same way way with the oem spoiler example you mentioned. If it is not the domestic base trim than ot take points. Basically, anything above the most bare bones car in non-btm.

You are correct, I am mistaken. I thought that the transmission wouldn't get dinged since it was a torque converter, but apparently OP already emailed the head TT director and they do indeed incur 6 points. +3 for added paddle shifters and +3 for altered gear ratios.

http://forums.nasaaz.com/showpost.ph...7&postcount=12

[sw20kosh]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

This sounds asinine to me. They're going to penalize you for FACTORY paddles with FACTORY gear ratios that are *taller* than the MT?

Completely agree. That is the stupidest most illogical thing I have ever heard. DUMB.

[ja1217]

Originally Posted by DarkSunrise

@ja1217

In case you hadn't seen it. I know you were interested in buying a Cusco LSD, this sounds like a good deal, especially if you wanted to customize settings on it.

Yup, I was already planning on giving @CSG Mike / @CSG David a call and order the LSD from them. Still need to decide which to get (OS Giken vs Cusco) and need to save up a bit more money.

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Campo

I'm not totally familiar with the rules around dyno reclassing, but might it be worthwhile to ask after I actually start competing (again, this is like 2016 I'm thinking)? The stock auto dynos around 163 at the wheels as far as I've seen. I'm guessing that with my e85 tune I'm maybe 185-195 at the wheels. I've done zero weight reduction yet and no dyno yet, so I'm not 100% sure where my lb/hp ratio is, but I might benefit from a dyno reclass, no?

You typically want to build a "points" car vs a dyno reclass.


The dyno reclass cars typically end up dinged in 1-1.5lb per HP range as far as max power and comp weight vs "points" cars.


I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but taking +6 on the auto trans is basically going to render that car uncompetitive in any region with decently prepped cars and drivers.

[Campo]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

This sounds asinine to me. They're going to penalize you for FACTORY paddles with FACTORY gear ratios that are *taller* than the MT?

Yup. Since it's not a zero dollar option, I technically paid $1000 for a nonBTM transmission. It's from the factory, but it's not base model trim.
I figured I might contest it if I felt it would help, but Dyno reclass may work in my favor in this case. A reduced final drive can easily makeup the difference and make the auto a proper contender for a zero points mod. (But I'll be missing 6 available points to work with)

It may be a fool's errand, but I'm gonna stick with it for now.


Sent from Tapatalk

[JZA]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

You'll need camber plates and rear lower control arms.

Try starting at -2.4 all around, with 1/16" total toe-in on both axles.

Great. Thank you, Mike.

[Campo]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

You typically want to build a "points" car vs a dyno reclass.


The dyno reclass cars typically end up dinged in 1-1.5lb per HP range as far as max power and comp weight vs "points" cars.


I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but taking +6 on the auto trans is basically going to render that car uncompetitive in any region with decently prepped cars and drivers.

I need to understand the dyno reclassing rules better. Are you saying that one particular car, setup one particular way, could be classed 'D' via points, but may end up in 'C' with a dyno reclass?

[OkieSnuffBox]

Originally Posted by Campo

I need to understand the dyno reclassing rules better. Are you saying that one particular car, setup one particular way, could be classed 'D' via points, but may end up in 'C' with a dyno reclass?

No, imagine this scenario. Because I did a bunch of research on the Miata side and link you to some good threads that may help, but as a quick example.


Let's say you could build a "points" BRZ that would be:


175whp - 2750lb comp weight


For a dyno-reclass you're either going to end up with more weight at the same power level, or less power at the same weight. It's just the way Greg handles dyno-reclass to keep it from being a major advantage.


For example, certain cars/engines/tuners have become very good at hitting the peak power limit with a detuned engine that allows them to have a very, very large "peak" vs what you typically see out of a "normal" curve.


When I get home today I'll link you to some good discussion on it.

[King Tut]

Originally Posted by Campo

I need to understand the dyno reclassing rules better. Are you saying that one particular car, setup one particular way, could be classed 'D' via points, but may end up in 'C' with a dyno reclass?

A dyno reclassed car can end up in any class you want. You tell Greg two of the following three, and he will tell you the third:

1. Class
2. Horsepower
3. Weight

You will never get a dyno reclass that puts you at the maximum weight/power ratio for a given class though. Generally dyno reclasses are used to get a car with a ton of points classified down a letter, so you would have the points for C but be reclassed into D.

[Campo]

Originally Posted by OkieSnuffBox

No, imagine this scenario. Because I did a bunch of research on the Miata side and link you to some good threads that may help, but as a quick example.


Let's say you could build a "points" BRZ that would be:


175whp - 2750lb comp weight


For a dyno-reclass you're either going to end up with more weight at the same power level, or less power at the same weight. It's just the way Greg handles dyno-reclass to keep it from being a major advantage.


For example, certain cars/engines/tuners have become very good at hitting the peak power limit with a detuned engine that allows them to have a very, very large "peak" vs what you typically see out of a "normal" curve.


When I get home today I'll link you to some good discussion on it.

Yeah, I've seen cars with dyno charts that make 205 hp from 2k rpm to 6k rpm. I get why Greg would want to put a dyno car in the middle of the class and not right at the top of it. I look forward to those links!

Originally Posted by King Tut

A dyno reclassed car can end up in any class you want. You tell Greg two of the following three, and he will tell you the third:

1. Class
2. Horsepower
3. Weight

You will never get a dyno reclass that puts you at the maximum weight/power ratio for a given class though. Generally dyno reclasses are used to get a car with a ton of points classified down a letter, so you would have the points for C but be reclassed into D.

This is what I would hope to accomplish. I'm eating 6 points immediately for the auto, and it's 'technically' a disadvantage in power. I feel like it would be reasonable to ask for a reclass in order to make it competitive.

[enivid]

Originally Posted by CSG Mike

We haven't done enough testing with the OSG unit yet to determine if we want to offer a CSG-spec differential yet. Custom configuration on a OSG starts at $150, and goes up, depending on the labor and parts involved.

For the Cusco units, we know exactly how to set it up based on driving style and setup; we have much more experience with these. The Cusco unit also happens to be cheaper as well. Currently, we configure the Cusco unit for free if the requested/recommended changes are within the capability of the LSD without needing to swap parts.

Isn't the OSG unit slightly better?
Also is it wise to preemptively replace the rear axles or just wait and see if they blow up?

[CSG Mike]

Originally Posted by enivid

Isn't the OSG unit slightly better?
Also is it wise to preemptively replace the rear axles or just wait and see if they blow up?

They'll start to click on load changes before they go completely. You'll know they're starting to fail if you look for the right signs.

The OSG is different, but I wouldn't necessarily class it better or worse. A properly set up differential will do exactly what you want, regardless of brand. The OSG, I believe is more forgiving to less optimal setups, but we prefer to get the best setup we can, not just "good enough". We're still testing one on our car.