Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

Is the connector for the Perrin cold intake to the stock plastic intake where the sensor sits custom or can you still buy it?

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The maf housing is part of the perrin intake and connects using the rubber coupling sprintex kit already uses to connect to stock intake nothing special or extra you need. Direct easy bolt on.

[Kodename47]

Originally Posted by 86TOYO2k17

I read with ecutek same as you, I'm at or below ambient whenever i go wot. Never had car feel “heat soaked” or down on power, even after fully warming car up then doing 10 back to back 20-80mph pulls as quickly as possible in 85F weather. Obviously not a autox or track scenario. But good enough to know it will never have issues in any daily driving or spirited driving conditions.

That intake temp has little to do with charge temps though. I monitor charge temps in the manifold, and there is a reasonable difference (+20-30C - more if you're on it constantly) once you get on it. You need to move the IAT sensor though.

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

I am never at or below ambient... Where do you have your IC mounted? I wonder if my pump is not functioning correctly... Are you also still using the stock snorkel in the bumper?

The IAT sensor, unless you've added a new IAT sensor in the manifold, just takes the air temp at the start of the system as it's part of the MAF. So pre-compression, which adds a fair bit of heat before the IC, which is inside the intake manifold, takes some of it back out.

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

That intake temp has little to do with charge temps though. I monitor charge temps in the manifold, and there is a reasonable difference (+20-30C - more if you're on it constantly) once you get on it. You need to move the IAT sensor though.

The IAT sensor, unless you've added a new IAT sensor in the manifold, just takes the air temp at the start of the system as it's part of the MAF. So pre-compression, which adds a fair bit of heat before the IC, which is inside the intake manifold, takes some of it back out.

I thought it was apart of the MAF but find it weird that it drops substantially when i spray WMI post MAF, and that my IAT are also a lot lower then jflogerzi. Also doing extensive testing in attempts to heat soak my system (given not as extensively as a track Would be) logging all temps, knock, and acceleration times i saw no real difference from pull 1 vs pull 10, aside from fluid temps increasing a little. But no increased knock counts, pulled timing or decreased acceleration the main signs/symptoms of heat soak.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by Kodename47

That intake temp has little to do with charge temps though. I monitor charge temps in the manifold, and there is a reasonable difference (+20-30C - more if you're on it constantly) once you get on it. You need to move the IAT sensor though.

The IAT sensor, unless you've added a new IAT sensor in the manifold, just takes the air temp at the start of the system as it's part of the MAF. So pre-compression, which adds a fair bit of heat before the IC, which is inside the intake manifold, takes some of it back out.

Did Jon bond make something to do this? I am guess if you get more accurate temps the ECU is less likely to pull timing etc..

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[jhalagian]

I have a general question in regards to cooling mods. Heat soak is obviously well documented with this kit but I was curious to know in order what would be the most effective to least effective mods to combat the heat soak. FYI this would be for a DD build. Much appreciated.


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[ls1ac]

Just my experience, DD especially in Canada it will be hard to heat soak. Even if it happens you will only loose a little power. On a track where time is critical, this would be important.
Just drive it and if your style changes, address the problem. I have one of the first in this country and have tracked it regularly with no problems.

[jflogerzi]

Originally Posted by jhalagian

I have a general question in regards to cooling mods. Heat soak is obviously well documented with this kit but I was curious to know in order what would be the most effective to least effective mods to combat the heat soak. FYI this would be for a DD build. Much appreciated.


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If you have the IC kit and e85 you will be fine for a DD. If not 93+WMI will be almost just as good

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[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jflogerzi

If you have the IC kit and e85 you will be fine for a DD. If not 93+WMI will be almost just as good

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WMI has better cooling properties then E85 but worse high octane/knock resistance benefits.

E85 and methanol are alcohols with similar octane and they burn and combust at lower temps compared to normal gas. decreased combustion temps will slow and reduce heat soak which will reduce IAT more indirectly. Obviously with WMI you are spraying in addition to 91-93 gas so the octane and combustion temperature benefits are diminished. But with WMI you are spraying water directly into the intake/manifold and this dramatically reduces the temp of the air going into the manifold, supercharger compressor, combustion chamber and eliminate hot spots so you have colder IAT and a colder starting cylinder temp, but then a higher combustion temp. They are both effective at reducing heat soak, IAT, and overall temps but generally WMI is better at cooling because of the water and E85 is better at making power because higher effective octane.

Full bolt ons +69mm pulley you can expect roughly
300whp E85
265-275whp 91-93 w/ wmi
260whp on 93
255whp on 92
250whp on 91

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by jhalagian

I have a general question in regards to cooling mods. Heat soak is obviously well documented with this kit but I was curious to know in order what would be the most effective to least effective mods to combat the heat soak. FYI this would be for a DD build. Much appreciated.


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Thats somewhat difficult to say just because we don’t have an accurate way of knowing for sure what IAT truly are post IC unless you tap a sensor into the manifold, which idk anyone that has.

But WMI and/or E85 will be the most effective by far as well as the intercooler kit. And should be more then enough for a DD.

Hood vents, hood scoop, gold reflective heat wrap, as well as keeping oil/coolant temps down as everything can/will eventually effect each other through thermal dynamics. CAI might help but we have one from factory so hard to say if an aftermarket one helps IATs or not.

[kev0]

Anyone find the Sprintex technical support take a while to respond? I emailed them about a replacement bypass actuator and they have replied to my initial email, but I asked them another question and it's taking them 10+ days to respond. Still nothing from them yet..

[jflogerzi]

Call them directly

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[sam69]

I tapped into the manifold post intercooler and the temps were High hence whey I made the water jacket .
Will try and find the notes I took but seem to remember somewhere in the 80 to 85 degrees C on a 40 C day

[86TOYO2k17]

Originally Posted by sam69

I tapped into the manifold post intercooler and the temps were High hence whey I made the water jacket .
Will try and find the notes I took but seem to remember somewhere in the 80 to 85 degrees C on a 40 C day

You are probably one of few people who have.
What was temps after jacket install?
How long did it take your temps to get that high?

[tzbang]

Hey guys. I finished my install tonight and flashed the computer with Xero-Limit tune. I've feel I've been fairly meticulous doing the install to do things properly. But the car won't start.. it cranks, fires once and then dies immediately.

• Car is still jacked up at the front but that shouldn't matter.
• I moved the intercooler reservoir but that shouldn't matter.
• I installed my own closed catch-can setup on the PVC side only. That shouldn't matter.
• Got a B14A1 error code - Open in Solar Sensor Circuit for AC unit which appears to be a common non-issue

Any idea what might be the problem?