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Suspension | Chassis | Brakes -- Sponsored by 949 Racing Relating to suspension, chassis, and brakes. Sponsored by 949 Racing.


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Old 01-24-2014, 06:02 AM   #29
Captain Snooze
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@Turdinator
I have a Beatrush one fitted. Seems functional enough. Nice large surface area against the master cylinder. Painted black, blends in nicely in the engine bay.
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Last edited by Captain Snooze; 01-24-2014 at 07:33 PM. Reason: spelling error
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Old 01-24-2014, 02:51 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turdinator View Post
@GrimmSpeed any plans for a RHD version?
I know that I printed one off for test fit, and mailed it off to one of our distributors in Australia. However, I don't know what happened after that (I hate when that happens). So right now, that's a "Yes and No." Yes we have thought about it, and taken the first steps, but No, we haven't finalized anything. I'll start looking into if it ever got test fit!

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Old 01-24-2014, 04:58 PM   #31
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I have the GS one zero complaints here. Radium Engineering now also makes one to, looks nice.
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Old 01-24-2014, 10:05 PM   #32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed View Post
I know that I printed one off for test fit, and mailed it off to one of our distributors in Australia. However, I don't know what happened after that (I hate when that happens). So right now, that's a "Yes and No." Yes we have thought about it, and taken the first steps, but No, we haven't finalized anything. I'll start looking into if it ever got test fit!

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Well if you want someone who will test fit and supply feedback let me know

It would match your strut brace I already have.
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Old 01-25-2014, 02:59 PM   #33
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Originally Posted by 7thgear View Post
whichever one resists corrosion the best

but looking at the pics i would go with the GrimmSpeed units because it seems to spread the pressure over a greater area, it would seem that in a very severe case the Perrin could impale the cylinder? I'm no engineer but that's why my gut-physics tell me.
I have the Grimmspeed. It's a nice piece. Very subtle when installed. Looks very factory.

The red "cap" on the end does appear to help spread out the amount of direct surface pressure on the master cylinder. Whether this is needed or not, I don't know but it does help finish it off.

Does it work? No idea. The pedal does seem to be a little more direct but I wont know until summer if it's actually contributing or not. Even then, it still might just be a guess whether it's working or not. Good thing I bought it used
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Old 01-25-2014, 07:58 PM   #34
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Old 01-27-2014, 11:38 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Turdinator View Post
Well if you want someone who will test fit and supply feedback let me know

It would match your strut brace I already have.
I found out that simply mirroring the part didn't fit, but as I understand we will still be able to work on a solution for RHD. We'll most likely have the same person test, but if we change our minds we will let you know!

Thanks again, we appreciate it!

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Old 01-27-2014, 09:24 PM   #36
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Originally Posted by GrimmSpeed View Post
I found out that simply mirroring the part didn't fit, but as I understand we will still be able to work on a solution for RHD. We'll most likely have the same person test, but if we change our minds we will let you know!

Thanks again, we appreciate it!

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Group buy when this is sorted

I'm happy to be the tester
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Old 01-28-2014, 12:09 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Efferalgan View Post
Just ordered GrimmSpeed for the exactly same reason. Leaving just a tiny bolt cap to act against the cylinder seems "unfinished" solution for otherwise "overbuilt" Perrin... Olso ordered GS's hood dampers which seem to be the best in the market for our cars.
Super old quote, but I didn't see this until the recent bumps

The stainless steel set screw we use, actually bites into the aluminum a bit which creates a more solid connection. This is important to understand, as the MC doesn't just flex straight out from the fire wall, it actually flexes left to right a little bit. We found on the STI's, that the movement left to right is significant enough that having a smooth flat "cap" may still allow for some movement. So our cup point set screw, serves two purposes, which both reduce the movement. Also keep in mind that those parts are very thick and they will not cause damage to the MC.
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Old 01-28-2014, 01:14 PM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Mladen View Post
Super old quote, but I didn't see this until the recent bumps

The stainless steel set screw we use, actually bites into the aluminum a bit which creates a more solid connection. This is important to understand, as the MC doesn't just flex straight out from the fire wall, it actually flexes left to right a little bit. We found on the STI's, that the movement left to right is significant enough that having a smooth flat "cap" may still allow for some movement. So our cup point set screw, serves two purposes, which both reduce the movement. Also keep in mind that those parts are very thick and they will not cause damage to the MC.
That's very important piece of info, thanks! I think you should add it to the product decription as many people think (and speak about it) that your solution is "under-thought" while in fact it's actually vise-versa as you just explained.
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Old 01-29-2014, 12:19 PM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DriftEightSix View Post
Group buy when this is sorted

I'm happy to be the tester
Good stuff, we'll be in touch!

We'll continue to include the red anodized machined cap. We tested a number of setups and cap designs, along with no cap at all, and found no relative motion between the cap and the master cylinder while in use. With that, the cap essentially acts as an extension of the master cylinder, distributing the forces across the entire back of the casting and protecting your OEM components. If that's not a concern, or if you'd prefer to use just the bolt, removing the cap is always an option.

Obviously, this differs a bit from Mladen's design methodology and test results, but regardless, I'm sure their braces offer an improvement in pedal feel as well. Either way, it's an awesome upgrade, so pick the one that you're most comfortable with!

If you're interested in following along with our design process, check out this thread:

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=11831

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Old 02-27-2014, 12:05 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dezoris View Post
1. Radium
1. Perrin
2. GrimmSpeed
Do you or anyone else have a review of the Radium mcb?

Thanks!
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Old 02-27-2014, 12:22 AM   #41
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JR007 View Post
Do you or anyone else have a review of the Radium mcb?

Thanks!
I have a stack of Radium stuff sitting in garage to finish video on.
Will post up in a few weeks. In terms of the brace its by far the most robust design, however the likely truth is I doubt it would technically reduce deflection more than the others. But since they did modeling around forces similar to suspension parts it's an easy sell.
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Old 03-12-2014, 12:51 AM   #42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PERRIN_Mladen View Post
Super old quote, but I didn't see this until the recent bumps

The stainless steel set screw we use, actually bites into the aluminum a bit which creates a more solid connection. This is important to understand, as the MC doesn't just flex straight out from the fire wall, it actually flexes left to right a little bit. We found on the STI's, that the movement left to right is significant enough that having a smooth flat "cap" may still allow for some movement. So our cup point set screw, serves two purposes, which both reduce the movement. Also keep in mind that those parts are very thick and they will not cause damage to the MC.
been looking into MCB and came across this thread...
correct me if I'm wrong..but from your explanation, if the MCB moves not only vertically but horizontally and the set screw 'bites' into the aluminum then will it not carve/wear it away and cause room for movement?
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