camber,toe,fittment question

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by churchx

jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com: for rear you'll need adjustable LCAs for any case. For front .. at stock height camberbolts (SPC 8135+KCA416) at both holes worth ~ -2.3 (if lowered then -2.5), if you add to those camberbolts something like powerflex (PFF69-801G) eccentric bushing, up to -3. For even more, extra camber can be added at top mount, for example eccentric rubber mount by Pedders , or pillowball camberplate. Or you can go right away to camberplates + eg. one camberbolt set.

yea, there r many way to get cambers
but i am more worried about clearances

as pic showed

any experience for clearances on 17x8 +45 with 245 40 17 with camber?

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

i am more worried about clearances

I think you will need at least a 10mm spacer. I used a 10mm spacer (but wanted more camber so) then went to a 25mm spacers on 8" +45 wheels.


18x8 +45 with 25mm spacer and -1.5 camber 215/40 front tire.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

I think you will need at least a 10mm spacer. I used a 10mm spacer (but wanted more camber so) then went to a 25mm spacers on 8" +45 wheels.


18x8 +45 with 25mm spacer and -1.5 camber 215/40 front tire.

thx for the info
here is ur setup in the calculator
which is 10mm spacer


it looks like same as stock setup at space around suspension component


don't really wanna spacer

make me worried more
do u have any rubbing problem without spacer with -1.5 camber at front?
i have 10mm close to the suspension component

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

Attachment 179979
thx for the info
here is ur setup in the calculator
which is 10mm spacer


it looks like same as stock setup at space around suspension component


don't really wanna spacer

make me worried more
do u have any rubbing problem without spacer with -1.5 camber at front?
i have 10mm close to the suspension component

Yes, the difference is only 0.3mm, you will want more than a 10mm.

Yes, it was too close.

I'd suggest that you get 20 or 25mm bolt on spacers. You will have plenty of room between the spring perch and tire/wheel to add camber, they will look flush, and they are easy to install.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by Leonardo

Yes, the difference is only 0.3mm, you will want more than a 10mm.

Yes, it was too close.

I'd suggest that you get 20 or 25mm bolt on spacers. You will have plenty of room between the spring perch and tire/wheel to add camber, they will look flush, and they are easy to install.

get some info on facebook gt86 local group
it looks like i will be fine!
i man sure i will back to this and post the result
next Thursday it is the day

[NoHaveMSG]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

i think that is not the case


correct me if i am wrong

You are correct. Though the amount of roll reduction will not be enough. I am on stiffer sways, and 6k springs and I am still running -3.2F/-2.4 rear with a less sticky tire then you are. I could actually use more negative front but I am maxed out on my camber plates.

You may try running camber bolts in both upper and lower strut holes.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

i think that is not the case

keep in mind i am on the stock suspension
which mean a lot of body roll
get a strong sway bar will balance the left and right in the corner

from my understanding, it will help reduce the weight loading on out side tire
therefore, it helps reduce the tire wearing in the corner.

correct me if i am wrong

That would be correct if the wear was from too much load on the tire, but it's not. It's from not enough camber so there's too much load on the outside of the tire.


You want the tire flat to the ground at max cornering loads, you're definitely well into the positive camber range based on that wear.


Sway bars alone won't be enough to stop that, you'd need way too stiff of springs to keep the tire flat with such little camber.

[jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com]

Originally Posted by wparsons

That would be correct if the wear was from too much load on the tire, but it's not. It's from not enough camber so there's too much load on the outside of the tire.


You want the tire flat to the ground at max cornering loads, you're definitely well into the positive camber range based on that wear.


Sway bars alone won't be enough to stop that, you'd need way too stiff of springs to keep the tire flat with such little camber.

In my opinion, they work together to get wut we want, try things one by one
Camber blot first and sway bar second. Meanwhile watching on the tire pressures
And temperature
Still can’t fix it. I may go for camber plate or springs don’t really miss up with stock suspensions too much effort on set up
Had go though it with my kwv3 on bmw, living in a small town wont help either

In my case, driving on the re71 with stock suspension is hard to manage the tire pressure. Too high will cause less grip, too low will destroy the sidewalk of the tire. I was running on 28psi on hot. A bit low maybe

[wparsons]

You can try those things, but at the end of the day upgraded sway bars, stock springs, and -1.5* of front camber won't be enough for RE71Rs. Will it be better than stock sways and 0* of camber, yes. Will you still be overheating the outer edge badly, yes.


RE71Rs are also a bad lapping tire, they're good for a couple laps at most. If you're not running time attack there's much better options for 10+ minute sessions.

[JeremyR]

Sway bars will not help with this issue.

You need more adjustable suspension. Look into some coilovers, this will give you plenty of camber, ride height, and dampening adjustment. These all will help with your bodyroll and tire wear.

If you can't afford coilovers just yet, you could look into camber plates for your stock dampers. At that point sure, maybe look into sway bars. But, if you plan to go coilovers eventually, it makes more sense to do sway bars AFTER, if even at all. Eliminating body roll does have some negatives to it. Unless you are trying to drift your car, making it too stiff will actually make you slower around the track.

You need to run anywhere from -3.0 to -3.5 in front and -2.0 to -2.5 in rear for your camber. You can daily a car with this. It wont kill your tires. 0 toe all around is a good starting point, then slight adjustments depending on how it feels.

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by wparsons

RE71Rs are also a bad lapping tire, they're good for a couple laps at most. If you're not running time attack there's much better options for 10+ minute sessions.

Looking at my lap times from Palmer in April I don't see them falling off up to at least 7 laps in or ~13 minutes. 2nd lap 1:50.22, 6th lap (7th including outlap) 1:50.37. Best lap of weekend 1:49.87.

245/40-17 RE71R on 17x9 +35, -3.2* front -2.5* rear camber, Swift BRZ sport springs, Raceseng camber plates.
Not the best setup FWIW! No front bump travel, fronts pretty much on the bump stops (cut down from 60 to 20mm) at rest, any small bump = BAM!!!

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

In my case, driving on the re71 with stock suspension is hard to manage the tire pressure. Too high will cause less grip, too low will destroy the sidewalk of the tire. I was running on 28psi on hot. A bit low maybe

Yeah, IMO 28psi is pretty low for a hot pressure.
FWIW I just aim for ~35psi hot and don'w worry about it beyond that. There's going to be a fairly broad range of hot pressure that will give be near optimal for lap times, my approach is to run near the high end of that range for tire life. I know that a lot of people seem to try to run as low low low as possible thinking there's more grip with lower pressures, but I haven't seen any evidence to make me subscribe to that approach...

[ZDan]

Originally Posted by jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com

keep in mind i am on the stock suspension
which mean a lot of body roll
get a strong sway bar will balance the left and right in the corner

from my understanding, it will help reduce the weight loading on out side tire
therefore, it helps reduce the tire wearing in the corner.

correct me if i am wrong

That is wrong! Sway bars *do not* change total lateral weight transfer. That is *strictly* a function of cornering g's, c.g. height and track width.
In fact, if you go to a stiffer front bar, that will INcrease outside front tire load (and decrease rear outside tire load).
Decreasing body roll will improve your dynamic camber situation though.

[wparsons]

Originally Posted by ZDan

Looking at my lap times from Palmer in April I don't see them falling off up to at least 7 laps in or ~13 minutes. 2nd lap 1:50.22, 6th lap (7th including outlap) 1:50.37. Best lap of weekend 1:49.87.

245/40-17 RE71R on 17x9 +35, -3.2* front -2.5* rear camber, Swift BRZ sport springs, Raceseng camber plates.
Not the best setup FWIW! No front bump travel, fronts pretty much on the bump stops (cut down from 60 to 20mm) at rest, any small bump = BAM!!!

IMO that's either a unicorn track, or you're under driving by a fair amount. I've never personally driven on them, but anyone I know that's a properly fast driver can get 2-3 hot laps absolute maximum.