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Old 02-21-2020, 01:48 PM   #43
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A small leak that's leaking oil slowly won't result in a drop in pressure on your pressure gauge that you'd notice. Pressure is maintained, until the pickup starves from the oil being way too low, and then, you're still screwed.

How do you believe oil weight should be determined? Is too much pressure a bad thing?
One time my wife's PT Cruiser (now has an Audi Q5) was due for an oil change and probably was a quart or more low. We were on a mountain pass doing aggressive driving to get home, and when corning the oil warning light would come on. I could imagine a pressure gauge working well to alert a driver to pressure drops in high speed cornering, especially in mild cornering if oil levels were getting low. My wife's Audi has a coolant warning light that alerted us that coolant was low. We didn't even know the coolant pump was leaking because there were no puddles, nor was there a smell and the leak slowly dropped the level in the reservoir by an inch or two every few days.

Too little pressure is a bad thing. Again, I know your opinion on heavier weight oil. I don't feel another debate is necessary here.

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I check my readouts on average, every 3-10 seconds, on track.
I see. I just assumed you didn't check them often while driving hard because of your question here:

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How often do you look at your gauges while driving hard?
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Isn't it funny that the Porsche *street* cars have oil pressure gauges, and the the Porsche *race* cars don't?
Oh really? I see oil pressure there. Here is a Nascar article that applies to most modern dashes. I would be curious to know if racing teams have the ability to monitor the race cars remotely too, and with radio communication, relay vehicle measurements back to the driver. Regardless, Porsche race cars have had and do currently have "gauges".

https://www.usatoday.com/story/sport...ents/80341170/






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Old 02-21-2020, 02:05 PM   #44
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Bluf for op: oil cooler and done.

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He probably doesn't need a dedicated oil cooler at all. In fact, it could be a problem. He is only using it for daily driving, and he is in Canada. I run the Forester XT oil regulator, and I don't have any issues with heat, and I am in California. He would be fine with something like that.
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Old 02-21-2020, 02:31 PM   #45
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One time my wife's PT Cruiser (now has an Audi Q5) was due for an oil change and probably was a quart or more low. We were on a mountain pass doing aggressive driving to get home, and when corning the oil warning light would come on. I could imagine a pressure gauge working well to alert a driver to pressure drops in high speed cornering, especially in mild cornering if oil levels were getting low. My wife's Audi has a coolant warning light that alerted us that coolant was low. We didn't even know the coolant pump was leaking because there were no puddles, nor was there a smell and the leak slowly dropped the level in the reservoir by an inch or two every few days.
Every time that light flickered on, it was an oil starvation event. It just happened to be that the event was small enough to not cause any immediate damage. However, if you're seeing the lap come on over and over, don't you think it's prudent to... stop making the light come on?

My question to you, has zero relation, to what I do myself. That's why I ask you a question, so that I can determine what you are doing. I don't work based on assumptions, only off of data and ultimately, the end results.

Funny how the RSR you chose has no gauges whatsoever.

You often base your conclusions on good known facts/science, but often draw wildly incorrect conclusions.
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Old 02-21-2020, 02:59 PM   #46
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Every time that light flickered on, it was an oil starvation event. It just happened to be that the event was small enough to not cause any immediate damage. However, if you're seeing the lap come on over and over, don't you think it's prudent to... stop making the light come on?

My question to you, has zero relation, to what I do myself. That's why I ask you a question, so that I can determine what you are doing. I don't work based on assumptions, only off of data and ultimately, the end results.

Funny how the RSR you chose has no gauges whatsoever.

You often base your conclusions on good known facts/science, but often draw wildly incorrect conclusions.
We didnt care all too much. $300 dollar car on the open market, and we did slow down, but a change in pitch sometimes reactivated it too. It wasnt a sustained long turn.

They moved to a digital gauge. It says oil pressure on the screen and says 5 bar. They never stopped using gauges. The gauges just changed shape in their race cars. As the Nascar article highlighted (not Porsche), it is required and not entirely accepted because of fear the electronic dash could go black mid race.
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Old 02-21-2020, 03:52 PM   #47
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He probably doesn't need a dedicated oil cooler at all. In fact, it could be a problem. He is only using it for daily driving, and he is in Canada. I run the Forester XT oil regulator, and I don't have any issues with heat, and I am in California. He would be fine with something like that.
I'm just going to agree to disagree on this one. He has a turbo kit and you don't know how heavy his right foot is.

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Old 02-21-2020, 04:33 PM   #48
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I'm just going to agree to disagree on this one. He has a turbo kit and you don't know how heavy his right foot is.

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It isnt the extra heat. It is the excessive cooling. In that case, something with a thermostat or something like the Jackson racing oil cooler radiator would be better than an open oil cooler for a year round daily driver in Canada.
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Old 02-21-2020, 04:41 PM   #49
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I'm just going to agree to disagree on this one. He has a turbo kit and you don't know how heavy his right foot is.

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My AVO turbo 86 daily lives thru 40+ c summers here in AU with only a Forester heat exchanger and 5w30.

My right foot weighs the same as Thors hammer.

So there is that

It's more about use, the street where you want fast warm up and there is a limit on how much you can beat on it, is far different than lap after lap, at your local track.

Meh, OP, in the end, if you do get an air to oil cooler, get a high temp thermostat (90c) and be prepared to block it durning winter.

Me, I like my oil the be 80-90c before I beat on it, and I'm happy with temps up to about 120c.

I have had thoughts on getting a bigger O2W, but so far I haven't needed it.
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Old 02-21-2020, 04:45 PM   #50
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It isnt the extra heat. It is the excessive cooling. In that case, something with a thermostat or something like the Jackson racing oil cooler radiator would be better than an open oil cooler for a year round daily driver in Canada.
Since I ended up blocking off/disconnecting my oil cooler in the winter, I do want to advocate that even with the Mishimoto oil cooler with a thermostat, I had a very hard time getting my oil above 65c (~150f) most days unless it was blocked off.

On the flip side of that, I never had a problem with the oil not reaching a higher operating temp. It's below freezing temp here from October until April/May, and even through plenty of blackstone reports ( for what they're worth) I never seemed to have fuel or water contamination in the oil. It always came back healthy. And then Toyota did the recall. Anyway, if I could do it over, I would've gotten the Jackson Racing radiator/oil cooler combo. Helps get it UP to temp faster, helps moderate it better.
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Old 02-21-2020, 05:33 PM   #51
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It isnt the extra heat. It is the excessive cooling. In that case, something with a thermostat or something like the Jackson racing oil cooler radiator would be better than an open oil cooler for a year round daily driver in Canada.
i agree with you with the too much cooling of the oil radiator.. but then a cooler like the Forester/wrx one isn t then enough sometimes if you are really pushing it, and then it needs to have ignition timing relaxed, and more heat is produced with less power.. and so on until you are completely heatsoaked

what I find to work perfectly is a behind the fender radiator like the hks cooler, and a cardboard covering it
it stops to cool too much
i don t get the warming thing the OEM cooler gives, but my car warms up the oil quickly anyway with the supercharger, and I use a lean afr of 15.5 during closed loop
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Old 02-21-2020, 05:53 PM   #52
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Since I ended up blocking off/disconnecting my oil cooler in the winter, I do want to advocate that even with the Mishimoto oil cooler with a thermostat, I had a very hard time getting my oil above 65c (~150f) most days unless it was blocked off.

On the flip side of that, I never had a problem with the oil not reaching a higher operating temp. It's below freezing temp here from October until April/May, and even through plenty of blackstone reports ( for what they're worth) I never seemed to have fuel or water contamination in the oil. It always came back healthy. And then Toyota did the recall. Anyway, if I could do it over, I would've gotten the Jackson Racing radiator/oil cooler combo. Helps get it UP to temp faster, helps moderate it better.
Interesting.

Even in freezing (under 32F/0C) weather, I can get my oil to 75C (post-cooler) cruising without issue. I've literally never seen over 110C, even on the hottest of summer track days, and my turbo is oil cooled.

GReddy oil cooler w/ race shroud, for those wondering which cooler I use.
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Old 02-21-2020, 06:25 PM   #53
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Since I ended up blocking off/disconnecting my oil cooler in the winter, I do want to advocate that even with the Mishimoto oil cooler with a thermostat, I had a very hard time getting my oil above 65c (~150f) most days unless it was blocked off.

On the flip side of that, I never had a problem with the oil not reaching a higher operating temp. It's below freezing temp here from October until April/May, and even through plenty of blackstone reports ( for what they're worth) I never seemed to have fuel or water contamination in the oil. It always came back healthy. And then Toyota did the recall. Anyway, if I could do it over, I would've gotten the Jackson Racing radiator/oil cooler combo. Helps get it UP to temp faster, helps moderate it better.
Yeah, your comments mirror my sentiments. I recall someone who lived in a cold/snowy area who was finding that his oil never got up to temperature during his commute (I dont recall how far it was to be honest). I do recall him saying oil temps actually dropped initially (maybe this was a garaged car that then saw a drop after hitting the cool open air).
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Old 02-21-2020, 07:22 PM   #54
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Since I ended up blocking off/disconnecting my oil cooler in the winter, I do want to advocate that even with the Mishimoto oil cooler with a thermostat, I had a very hard time getting my oil above 65c (~150f) most days unless it was blocked off.

On the flip side of that, I never had a problem with the oil not reaching a higher operating temp. It's below freezing temp here from October until April/May, and even through plenty of blackstone reports ( for what they're worth) I never seemed to have fuel or water contamination in the oil. It always came back healthy. And then Toyota did the recall. Anyway, if I could do it over, I would've gotten the Jackson Racing radiator/oil cooler combo. Helps get it UP to temp faster, helps moderate it better.
Ive been using the forester heat exchanger to bring temps up quicker in tandem to my oil cooler kit i made using a mocal thermostat plate that i swapped a 92C / 197F thermostat in. Normal mocal thermostat is 82C / 180F but they always allow 10% flow and start opening allowing more flow 30F below full open temp. So 180F thermostat starts opening at 150F which cruising on the freeway can make it difficult to get over 160F as its already flowing a decent amount by then. With the 197F thermostat it starts opening at 167F making it quicker and easier to get to the 170s and forester heat exchanger helps speed it up a little as well.
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Old 02-21-2020, 11:26 PM   #55
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Interesting.

Even in freezing (under 32F/0C) weather, I can get my oil to 75C (post-cooler) cruising without issue. I've literally never seen over 110C, even on the hottest of summer track days, and my turbo is oil cooled.

GReddy oil cooler w/ race shroud, for those wondering which cooler I use.
It gets freezing in Orange County? lol Just kidding, but honestly, although I'm sure your car has traveled to cold areas, but was it to Vermont-like cold areas? I'm truly curious because it is fricken freezing there, and it is why I suggested the OP (who is from Canada, and possible of a more northern latitude) could possibly go without a dedicated oil cooler for daily driving his car.

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The annual mean temperature for the state is 43 F (6 C)
Quote:
The lowest recorded temperature was −50 F (−46 C), at Bloomfield, on December 30, 1933; this is the lowest temperature recorded in New England alongside Big Black River, which recorded a verified −50 F (−46 C) in 2009.
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The United States Department of Agriculture plant hardiness zones for the state range between zone 3b, no colder than −35 F (−37 C), in the Northeast Kingdom and northern part of the state and zone 5b, no colder than −15 F (−26 C), in the southern part of the state
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vermont#Climate

I have never heard of this rating system (hardness zones), so I looked it up and got this image, which may illustrate the climate differences that might explain the disparity between your experience and the experience of @DarkPira7e and potentially the OP's. Maybe it was a wind chill factor and humidity in Vermont or the car was sitting in -20C all night, so it was colder to begin with, but it seems reasonable that both of your experiences were likely normal and expected:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardiness_zone

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Old 02-22-2020, 01:37 AM   #56
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It gets freezing in Orange County? lol Just kidding, but honestly, although I'm sure your car has traveled to cold areas, but was it to Vermont-like cold areas? I'm truly curious because it is fricken freezing there, and it is why I suggested the OP (who is from Canada, and possible of a more northern latitude) could possibly go without a dedicated oil cooler for daily driving his car.







https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Vermont#Climate

I have never heard of this rating system (hardness zones), so I looked it up and got this image, which may illustrate the climate differences that might explain the disparity between your experience and the experience of @DarkPira7e and potentially the OP's. Maybe it was a wind chill factor and humidity in Vermont or the car was sitting in -20C all night, so it was colder to begin with, but it seems reasonable that both of your experiences were likely normal and expected:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hardiness_zone

I'd say I've done my share of cold weather driving with the BRZ, and enough to have quite a bit of data from it, considering I log 100% of my driving.







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