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Old 12-30-2019, 04:37 PM   #1
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Block Plate replacement worth it?

Iím just sort of thinking out loud here. For everyone with a manual, have you replaced/re-sealed the block plate? I think mine is allowing a very small amount of oil to leak out. It doesnít seem to be a big issue, but does it only get worse over time? Was this a bigger issue on the earlier FR-S? Mine is a 2016
Iíve watched the FT-86 Speed Factory replacement video, and it doesnít seem too difficult, with a lift. I would be worried about missing some of the old sealant that could get in the oil, or new sealant getting in the oil.


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Old 12-30-2019, 04:43 PM   #2
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Issue among the earlier models. Some people replaced it with aftermarket but still leaked. Mainly due to the sealant being applied incorrectly I believe.
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Old 12-30-2019, 05:16 PM   #3
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Once the sealant hardens, there should be no way for the sealant to mix with the oil after hardening.

I'd say if it's leaking, it's worth doing- if it starts dripping on the exhaust, you're risking a fire. Even if it is a low chance, it's worth getting it taken care of.
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Old 12-30-2019, 05:19 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesseG View Post
I’m just sort of thinking out loud here. For everyone with a manual, have you replaced/re-sealed the block plate? I think mine is allowing a very small amount of oil to leak out. It doesn’t seem to be a big issue, but does it only get worse over time? Was this a bigger issue on the earlier FR-S? Mine is a 2016
I’ve watched the FT-86 Speed Factory replacement video, and it doesn’t seem too difficult, with a lift. I would be worried about missing some of the old sealant that could get in the oil, or new sealant getting in the oil.


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Sealant shouldn't be an issue, even if you apply a lot. This isn't like the valve spring recall where it's super easy to "misplace" the coolant.

There might be some used ones for sale on here, if not there will be one soon Or just take yours off an reseal it to try to fix it that way first.
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Old 12-30-2019, 05:22 PM   #5
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Issue among the earlier models. Some people replaced it with aftermarket but still leaked. Mainly due to the sealant being applied incorrectly I believe.


Yeah it sounds like the replacement plate wasnít installed correctly then.


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Old 12-30-2019, 05:24 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkPira7e View Post
Once the sealant hardens, there should be no way for the sealant to mix with the oil after hardening.

I'd say if it's leaking, it's worth doing- if it starts dripping on the exhaust, you're risking a fire. Even if it is a low chance, it's worth getting it taken care of.


Ok now Iím moving this up on my car To Do list


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Old 12-30-2019, 05:27 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave-ROR View Post
Sealant shouldn't be an issue, even if you apply a lot. This isn't like the valve spring recall where it's super easy to "misplace" the coolant.

There might be some used ones for sale on here, if not there will be one soon Or just take yours off an reseal it to try to fix it that way first.


So just be careful getting the old sealant removed, and apply enough for a good seal with the new plate? Is there a specific tool that is best to scrape the old stuff off? I have some putty knives that might work.
And if you put yours up for sale let me know.


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Old 12-30-2019, 05:35 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JesseG View Post
So just be careful getting the old sealant removed, and apply enough for a good seal with the new plate? Is there a specific tool that is best to scrape the old stuff off? I have some putty knives that might work.
And if you put yours up for sale let me know.


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I used a blunt nylon trim panel tool to get ALL the old sealant off. Got everything off without any nicks.

I'm using the Verus plate which uses an o-ring to seal. It's a little more critical that you remove all sealant in the groove since that's where the o-ring sits. You probably wouldn't need to be so thorough if you're going back with stock plate and sealant..
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Old 12-30-2019, 05:44 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JesseG View Post
So just be careful getting the old sealant removed, and apply enough for a good seal with the new plate? Is there a specific tool that is best to scrape the old stuff off? I have some putty knives that might work.
And if you put yours up for sale let me know.


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I'll have a red Verus for sale shortly, probably Wednesday. Just need to pull it off the car it's on.
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Old 12-30-2019, 05:49 PM   #10
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Originally Posted by chickunfut View Post
I used a blunt nylon trim panel tool to get ALL the old sealant off. Got everything off without any nicks.

I'm using the Verus plate which uses an o-ring to seal. It's a little more critical that you remove all sealant in the groove since that's where the o-ring sits. You probably wouldn't need to be so thorough if you're going back with stock plate and sealant..


Ok gotcha, those are helpful tips!


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Old 12-30-2019, 05:50 PM   #11
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I'll have a red Verus for sale shortly, probably Wednesday. Just need to pull it off the car it's on.


Ok cool!


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Old 12-30-2019, 05:50 PM   #12
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And you guys havenít had any oil leaking with the Verus plate?


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Old 12-30-2019, 05:53 PM   #13
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And you guys haven’t had any oil leaking with the Verus plate?


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No evidence of it on this car. It's a salvage car that we bought for it's parts and to move the engine to a 2015 hydrolocked car we have. We planned to swap to a stock plate instead of the aftermarket one to get some money back on the car. It's sadly almost cheaper to just buy a salvage car to get the engine vs buying a used engine elsewhere.

I suggested trying to reseal it cause it should, in theory, work. IMO the aftermarket plates are more for show. :shrug: But then I've never had an issue with an OEM one leaking when sealed correctly.
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Old 12-30-2019, 05:57 PM   #14
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No issues so far, but my car is not a daily driver. Probably around 200 miles with no issues. Plate was installed 3-4 months ago..
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