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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


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Old 05-12-2013, 12:17 AM   #15
gbgracer
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CSG Mike,

I hear you and believe you are probably right but I haven't put a pyrometer to it yet. My hope was that between the Whiteline top hats, camber bolts, RCE Yellow springs, upgraded front and rear sway bars, it would be enough to track it aggressively but perhaps it isn't.

These changes gave me upgraded roll stiffness, higher spring rates and -2.3F and -2.1R camber. The next step is coilovers and camber plates which is a big expense...
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Old 05-12-2013, 01:35 AM   #16
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Stock alignment is your issue... and in depth, your camber. At stock alignment/camber my stock tire's michelin dude's head was rubbed off... Also run hot PSI around 35 all around and see how you like it from there. You will feel much more grip at 35 vs 40
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:03 AM   #17
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Stock alignment is your issue... and in depth, your camber. At stock alignment/camber my stock tire's michelin dude's head was rubbed off... Also run hot PSI around 35 all around and see how you like it from there. You will feel much more grip at 35 vs 40
He's not on stock alignment. hehe

He's got -2.3 up front so it is his driving style that is tearing up his sidewalls.
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Old 05-12-2013, 02:14 AM   #18
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He's not on stock alignment. hehe

He's got -2.3 up front so it is his driving style that is tearing up his sidewalls.
Oh woops... didn't catch that :P
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Old 05-12-2013, 03:29 AM   #19
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Before putting the money into a sway bar, I'd invest it in a pyrometer.
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Old 05-12-2013, 06:52 PM   #20
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So the update is that the bigger bar did help the take some of the uneven tire wear away. Still working the outer edges too much but not as bad. However, the car did pick up a little bit more push, still not too bad though unless I have a passenger with me and then the car pushes pretty badly...

Having said that the car still turned a faster lap then before so overall better! The real solution is more neg camber and higher spring rates but that's not a cheap solution...

Thanks for all the feedback though!
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:00 PM   #21
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The problem might be the tires too. Maybe the Mich PSS have pretty soft sidewalls. Assuming you're still on stock 17x7 wheels, the sidewall may deform more than a 215 tire.
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Old 05-12-2013, 07:45 PM   #22
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If you want more camber up front and don't want camber plates just slot the upper knuckle hole on the struts. Some cars come like this stock, and Koni sold yellow struts pre-slotted on a bunch of platforms as well.

I bet with 3-3.5* up front you'll find it faster without the stiffer front bar.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:13 PM   #23
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Thanks, I'll try that. I'm sure getting more of the front tire on the ground will make all the difference.
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Old 05-12-2013, 10:14 PM   #24
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I have Motegi rims in 17 x 7.5 and 225/45 tires
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Old 05-14-2013, 05:47 AM   #25
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I ran 38 psi front and 36 psi rear on 235/40 Toyo R1-R and dealt with over-steer in about 30% of the turns (even in third gear) and never with any under-steer. Next time I'll switch to Toyo R888 and try 30 to 32 psi rear.
(A bystander told me that my car was swerving around like an old BMW 2002.)
All I did was installing the camber bolts in the front. I think the 20 mm swaybar should help.

One AutoX lasts 3 minutes here and all four runs are done within 30 - 45 minutes and I think the R1-R may have gotten too hot (it started to shred also). Most competitors were on Toyo R888.
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