FRS 4.8 LS swap

[Trueweltall]

Originally Posted by kurty85

Excuse me? No I am waiting for the replacement ECM to be shipped to me. Don't make smart ass comments if you don't know what your talking about.

You're*

[kurty85]

Needed to get a more safe location for the fuel cell as well as replace the fuel pump. Used my 270lph full blown pump from when I was turbo but the pump would not hold pressure (supposed to 58.5 psi would would sit at 40 not matter how I adjusted the FPR) and the car is stumbling. The pump started smoking previously inside the tank. The aeromotive pump that came with the cell outlet nozzle broke off when I accidentally dropped it so bought another 340 lph aeromotive pump. In addition I got the fuel cell cage done. Time to finish welding and paint/close off the holes with sheet metal. Also replaced the leaking aeromotive cap with an Earl's screw on cap.

[VR4EVER]

Really need some videos of this thing running!

Are your engine/trans mounts custom made (by you I assume?)?

[kurty85]

Originally Posted by VR4EVER

Really need some videos of this thing running!

Are your engine/trans mounts custom made (by you I assume?)?

Still working on the sheetmetal around the fuel cell. Hoping to be finished this weekend. Been extremely busy lately. The sheetmetal is done being formed, just need to finish a couple rivets and seal everything. One new fuel line and i will be driving it again. Goal is to be daily driving it while we sell our other car.

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[kurty85]

Here is video running after fuel cell cage completion. Needs tuning. Still rich but sounds good. The motor mounts are CX racing. https://m.facebook.com/story.php?sto...&id=1128542140

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[kurty85]

Worked on the tune a lot more. Pulled another 30% fuel out of the VE table and the plugs look perfect now. All values in LTFT are between -5 and +5. Also adjusted several other values in pe and cranking and it starts within a half second every time cold or hot. Still waiting on earls super pro 650 line to eliminate my vapor issue causing gas smell inside the car and im going to redo the y pipe for more clearance. I will be daily driving it soon. Also interested to see a dyno soon

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[kurty85]

Was working on the exhaust today that i built. It was scraping at the 2-1 section and there was no room under the trans mount to go higher. Got some metal to make a new trans mount that sits higher. The transmission is already almost touching the top of the tunnel so no room there and the shifter is in a perfect position as it sits. As i was pulling off the y pipe, the welds had cracked at the manifold connection. Kinda stopped for a second and thought: i have had a set of precision 6765 billet wheel turbos and stainless works 1 7/8 headers from another project. The headers are too long so i cut the front section off and will make a new taper into the vband inlet of the turbo. Was going to wait to go turbo but oh well.

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[kurty85]

Some pics of the turbo headers abd moving the fusebox and abs soon.

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[kurty85]

Fusebox moved. Last thing to move is the abs box. Working on getting the lines to bypass, but keep the electronics. Box of turbo parts arrived for oil feed and drain and coolant tee. Moved the radiator forward. Need to order the drift armor bumper beam and move the battery to the rear again.

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[kurty85]

Hoping i get the headers back next week and begin on the downpipes.

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[kurty85]

Finally got the parts from summit for the abs delete and brake booster delete. Made a small drawing that shows how the chase bays master cylinder (wilwood) feeding into a tee right below the shock tower. This tee feeds the upper two brake lines (lf/rf) with a tee and the proportioning valve. The proportioning valve feeds the two rear brake lines through a tee. Only have to extend the wiring for the abs block now and have much more room to put it. Altogether, everything was 267.00 for the braking and this included a bender, flaring tool, all tees, flare nuts, proportioning valve, speed bleeders, and stainless brake line. People will always say that no brake booster is not good but if done right with the right pads, proportioning valve, and properly sized master cylinder it can be very good and have very consistent feel unlike boosters which are not consistent at all. Will be flaring all lines tomorrow and post pics of the setup.

[Zer0]

Nice to see someone doing an abs, and booster delete. I'm doing a brake booster, and abs delete as well.

[kurty85]

Nice! What did you change for the MC? I also need to look at pivot point when i get to testing. Real reason was to make room for the precision turbos. Hotsides are not big, but the coldsides are ginormous. Fusebox and abs had to move. Also gotta figure out downpipes, through the hood, fender or rear? I was also drilling holes for oil return through the front cover and made a mistake by drilling the holes out on the buttons. Didnt realize the bolts for the oil pump were so close behind. Measured again and found a better spot right below the water pump. Need a new cover but its only 29.00. Oil feed is done and is a -4an off the oil filter housing to a y block to 36" lines and no restrictors(jb turbos).

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[Zer0]

Im using a Wilwood dual circuit master cyl. with a proportioning valve. I forgot what size it is. I moved the pivot point up slightly. I also moved the clutch master cylinder over toward the driver side along with the pivot point. I think I might have the details in my build thread. It's still not close to done. I may go with a Bosch Motorsports abs unit mounted under the dash.