several mechanic questions-new owner

[danielmailrs]

hi
as topic says-i would like to know few things
1 which oil engine are runing into these cars?viscosity,and standards reqs(like VW 502 and so on)-also if there is a prefered specific oil that most of you use .
2 my gears changing are quite clicky and sometimes second to third gear is even crunchy/grindy -is it normal?
3 those gearboxes/back axle power transfer are require an oil changes by the manufacturer?if so which oil goes there?
4 i got an rocker cover resealed job by the garage under warranty because of oil leak-is it common?Also been told by a friend to put only half of the dipstick indicate and not to MAX ,is anyone has ever heard of that method? :X
cheers mates

[86MLR]

Your mate doesn't know jack squat.

More research needed, less posting, all the info is out there.

Be aware, filter your research well, there is some good, some not so good.

[Bonburner]

Go look at your maintenance manual and owner's manual. If your used car didn't come with it, download it online from toyota/subaru.


-----
Fill your oil to anywhere between the low and high dot of the dip stick, it doesn't matter because thats the engineered specification range.
Make sure to replace your oil filter each time as well. Stick with the OEM from toyota/subaru - they should be wide stubby black filters with toyota/subaru on it. Just call around the dealership parts department to get the cheapest price. Make sure you pick up the crush washer for the oil drain plug as well.

Here is my bit on FR-S/BRZ Oils (0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, 5W-40 have been recommended in japan):

Originally Posted by Bonburner

*Check the Y-axes before you make conclusions for the 3 different graphs, the starting X-axes are different*

**25°C = 77°F**

If you look at the viscosity charts the only significant difference between 0W20, 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 is the cold starts.
And "cold" meaning ≤30°C (≤86°F) comparing 50 cSt with 0W20 vs ~100 cSt (0W30, 5W30, 0W40).

So if you live in snowing regions, absolutely 0W20.






If you live in places that is consistently ≥37°C (≥100°F) then switching to 0W30, 5W30, 0W40 would be a smart move IF you push your car hard





If you push your car seriously hard for long periods of time (Track), then 0W40 would be your best protection even at 120°C (248°F).





PS: M1 = mobil 1; Zepro = Idemitsu Zepro (I picked this oil because that's what I like to use as it has the lowest cSt at 40°C of 0W20 oils, other 0W20 oils are rated at ~45 cSt, - yes this widens the gap but the lesson is the same in the end)

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Our transmission is notorious for being temperamental about the operating temperature. Drive nicely until its warmed up. Consider swapping out fluids to fresh 75W-90. Some of the popular transmission fluids have been red line, motul 300. Others have ignored the manufacturer's weight specs and gone lighter to good results. Ie. Pentosin MTF2, but I hear its discontinued.
I'm personally using motul's motylgear because motul claims its their specially formulated oil for transmissions that are hard to shift &/or noisy. No clue if its working or not, but it is better than stock.
Don't forget to order the correct oil crush washers from the dealership (call around again).

-----
The differential oils uses 75w-85 or 75w-90. The owner's manual will specify only 90, but it is accepted according to the workshop repair manual.
You can opt for Toyota's 75W-85 LX (It must say LX according to the manual, the other diff oil 75w-85 LT is incompatible because the LSD) or you can get Redline.
Don't forget the correct oil crush washers from the dealerships (call around again).

-----
Consider swapping out your brake and clutch fluids.
I'm personally swapping mine out to ATE SL.6 - http://www.ate-brakes.com/products/brake-fluids/
Whatever you pick, make sure its DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 - NOT 5.

Check your pads as well, doesn't hurt to get your rotors measured as well to see how much life they have left or if you need to replace them.

[danielmailrs]

Originally Posted by Bonburner

Go look at your maintenance manual and owner's manual. If your used car didn't come with it, download it online from toyota/subaru.


-----
Fill your oil to anywhere between the low and high dot of the dip stick, it doesn't matter because thats the engineered specification range.
Make sure to replace your oil filter each time as well. Stick with the OEM from toyota/subaru - they should be wide stubby black filters with toyota/subaru on it. Just call around the dealership parts department to get the cheapest price. Make sure you pick up the crush washer for the oil drain plug as well.

Here is my bit on FR-S/BRZ Oils (0W-20, 0W-30, 5W-30, 5W-40 have been recommended in japan):




-----
Our transmission is notorious for being temperamental about the operating temperature. Drive nicely until its warmed up. Consider swapping out fluids to fresh 75W-90. Some of the popular transmission fluids have been red line, motul 300. Others have ignored the manufacturer's weight specs and gone lighter to good results. Ie. Pentosin MTF2, but I hear its discontinued.
I'm personally using motul's motylgear because motul claims its their specially formulated oil for transmissions that are hard to shift &/or noisy. No clue if its working or not, but it is better than stock.
Don't forget to order the correct oil crush washers from the dealership (call around again).

-----
The differential oils uses 75w-85 or 75w-90. The owner's manual will specify only 90, but it is accepted according to the workshop repair manual.
You can opt for Toyota's 75W-85 LX (It must say LX according to the manual, the other diff oil 75w-85 LT is incompatible because the LSD) or you can get Redline.
Don't forget the correct oil crush washers from the dealerships (call around again).

-----
Consider swapping out your brake and clutch fluids.
I'm personally swapping mine out to ATE SL.6 - http://www.ate-brakes.com/products/brake-fluids/
Whatever you pick, make sure its DOT 3, 4, or 5.1 - NOT 5.

Check your pads as well, doesn't hurt to get your rotors measured as well to see how much life they have left or if you need to replace them.

thanks mate
i live in a place that most of the year the temp is higher than +20Celcius (like 7months of the year is about 35-40celcius).
so i think ill pick the 5-30 looks like a good blend for my temps and driving style (about once in month trackday and daily driving).
been told to look for C2 on the bottle standard requirements,correct?



86MLR if you dont have anything smart/helpfull to say- avoid posting.
learn from our friend up here .wont hurt you

[humfrz]

Originally Posted by danielmailrs

hi
as topic says-i would like to know few things
1 which oil engine are runing into these cars?viscosity,and standards reqs(like VW 502 and so on)-also if there is a prefered specific oil that most of you use .
2 my gears changing are quite clicky and sometimes second to third gear is even crunchy/grindy -is it normal?
3 those gearboxes/back axle power transfer are require an oil changes by the manufacturer?if so which oil goes there?
4 i got an rocket cover resealed job by the garage under warranty because of oil leak-is it common?Also been told by a friend to put only half of the dipstick indicate and not to MAX ,is anyone has ever heard of that method? :X
cheers mates

Hello danielmailrs.

I'll give you a few brief answers to your questions.

* as far as engine oil, just follow what it says in your manual. Basically, for any average driving, and name brand, full synthetic 5-w20 oil will be just fine.

* this transmission can be a bit challenging for some people to shift smoothly, especially when it is cold. Just take your time shifting till it warms up - timing is everything.

* in reference to the oil in the transmission and differential, I suggest you just follow the manual and check it from time to time. Some folks like to change it, but for average driving, I think the factory fill is good for at least 50,000 miles. If you wish to change it, the recommended fluids are shown in the maintenance manual.

* I'm not sure what a "rocket cover resealed job" is but as along as it doesn't leak anymore, don't worry about it.

* the oil level in the crankcase should be kept up near the "full" mark. If it drops to half way between full and low, stop in and buy a quart of oil and put half of it in. If the level is below the low mark, I suggest you thumb up to the auto shop and bring back some oil to put in it.

Now, your automotive homework assignment is to read the owners manual and maintenance guide (the whole thing this time). A pop quiz could pop up at any time -


humfrz

[danielmailrs]

Originally Posted by humfrz

Hello danielmailrs.

I'll give you a few brief answers to your questions.

* as far as engine oil, just follow what it says in your manual. Basically, for any average driving, and name brand, full synthetic 5-w20 oil will be just fine.

* this transmission can be a bit challenging for some people to shift smoothly, especially when it is cold. Just take your time shifting till it warms up - timing is everything.

* in reference to the oil in the transmission and differential, I suggest you just follow the manual and check it from time to time. Some folks like to change it, but for average driving, I think the factory fill is good for at least 50,000 miles. If you wish to change it, the recommended fluids are shown in the maintenance manual.

* I'm not sure what a "rocket cover resealed job" is but as along as it doesn't leak anymore, don't worry about it.

* the oil level in the crankcase should be kept up near the "full" mark. IF it drops to half way between full and half, stop in and buy a quart of oil and put in it. If the level is below the low mark, I suggest you thumb up to the auto shop and bring back some oil to put in it.

Now, your automotive homework assignment is to read the owners manual and maintenance guide (the whole thing this time). A pop quiz could pop up at any time -


humfrz

cheers fellas.

[Bonburner]

Originally Posted by danielmailrs

thanks mate
i live in a place that most of the year the temp is higher than +20Celcius (like 7months of the year is about 35-40celcius).
so i think ill pick the 5-30 looks like a good blend for my temps and driving style (about once in month trackday and daily driving).
been told to look for C2 on the bottle standard requirements,correct?



86MLR if you dont have anything smart/helpfull to say- avoid posting.
learn from our friend up here .wont hurt you

What do you mean by the C2? I'm not sure what you're referring to.

-----

If you're tracking your car really hard, consider getting an aftermarket dedicated oil cooler.
If you're novice, then just get the OEM WRX or Forester oil cooler installed as this well help you during your cold start daily driving.

Since its coming into winter, I would stick to 0W20 for your engine's longevity sake.
You can install an oil temp gauge - you can install a OBDII reader and get the Torque app, input the custom PID to get the temperature read out. If you're tracking consistently ≥215°C (this is the max OEM thermometer readout) then try getting a dedicated aftermarket oil cooler &/or upping to 0W-30.
Torque app info: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23530

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by danielmailrs

86MLR if you dont have anything smart/helpfull to say- avoid posting.
learn from our friend up here .wont hurt you

I thought what I posted was helpful.

Which part wasn't?

Everything people have recommend, and much more, can be found within a couple of minutes of googling.

But keep asking questions that have been asked and answered 100 times before.

I hope you learn something new.

[danielmailrs]

Originally Posted by Bonburner

What do you mean by the C2? I'm not sure what you're referring to.

-----

If you're tracking your car really hard, consider getting an aftermarket dedicated oil cooler.
If you're novice, then just get the OEM WRX or Forester oil cooler installed as this well help you during your cold start daily driving.

Since its coming into winter, I would stick to 0W20 for your engine's longevity sake.
You can install an oil temp gauge - you can install a OBDII reader and get the Torque app, input the custom PID to get the temperature read out. If you're tracking consistently ≥215°C (this is the max OEM thermometer readout) then try getting a dedicated aftermarket oil cooler &/or upping to 0W-30.
Torque app info: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23530

uhh the manufacturer standard meet requirements (if i say that correct)
like those: ACEA C3
VW 504.00 / 507.00
MB-Approval 229.31/229.51
Porsche C30

so as i understood C2 is for ours

[danielmailrs]

Originally Posted by 86MLR

I thought what I posted was helpful.

Which part wasn't?

Everything people have recommend, and much more, can be found within a couple of minutes of googling.

But keep asking questions that have been asked and answered 100 times before.

I hope you learn something new.

not sure about how your life is but mine is pretty busy,i dont have 1000hours to spend on searching few answers that could be found within few minutes with member's help .
sometimes its better to help out a guy and spend for him 2minutes instead of letting him search and spend hours by hours.

[86MLR]

Originally Posted by danielmailrs

not sure about how your life is but mine is pretty busy,i dont have 1000hours to spend on searching few answers that could be found within few minutes with member's help .
sometimes its better to help out a guy and spend for him 2minutes instead of letting him search and spend hours by hours.

As long as your happy, fill your boots.

[Leonardo]

Originally Posted by danielmailrs

not sure about how your life is but mine is pretty busy,i dont have 1000hours to spend on searching few answers that could be found within few minutes with member's help .
sometimes its better to help out a guy and spend for him 2minutes instead of letting him search and spend hours by hours.

We are all busy. Some of us use/spend our time in different ways...

The reason we know some of the answers, is because we have spent 1000 hours reading about our cars. I assume by your post you do not think its a worth while use of time, but want us to give you the answers?


Ok....

[Bonburner]

Originally Posted by danielmailrs

uhh the manufacturer standard meet requirements (if i say that correct)
like those: ACEA C3
VW 504.00 / 507.00
MB-Approval 229.31/229.51
Porsche C30

so as i understood C2 is for ours

There is no C2 requirement for our engine. That's mostly a European car kind of thing.

Just make sure its full synthetic oil of any of the approved oil weights.

[x808drifter]

I should point out his "mate" isn't completely full of shit.

Running less oil has been a tried and true way to get some power back from the engine.
A little too sketchy for my taste, but it does work.

(If that's what your mate is talking about)