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Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for! |
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10-29-2018, 10:03 AM | #1 |
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Track Car Maintenance
Hello,
I have been tracking my car coming to 3 years now and I'm getting to the where I like where my car sits now, modification wise, and just do tweaks and maintenance to dial handling in. Not planning to add more horsepower. I want to know what else you guys do to just maintain your car after each season. Here is what I did to mine after each season. 1st year - Just mostly fluids, diff and tranny, upgraded brakes and suspension, oil cooler. 2nd year - Added Accusump and bolt in roll bar and did fluids again. Did spark plugs at 60k 3rd year - what should I do? I will be going over my car this winter and check on bushings and any parts that might need replacing because of wear. I am sure some of my bushing is getting old as I daily'ed my car for 3 years before turning it to full track car. Here is a list of what I plan to do. 1. Cooling Fluid Flush and switching to Distilled Water 2. Replace all fluids again, Diff, Engine, and Tranny. 3. Replace Front LCA with Buddy Club LCA with the geometry correction kit. (My compliance bushing might be shot on my OEM.) 4. Doing Rear Sub Frame and Differential Bushing for more stiffness. 5. Solid Motor Mounts? 6. Rebuild my Stance XR1 Suspension Here is the list of Mods I have. Stoptech BBK Gruppe-S UEL Stage 2 E85 (Switched to 93 for Winter even though its just sitting) Autopower Rollbar Accusump 1.5 or 2 qt Reinharte/Stance XR1 Coilover Whiteline Transmission Insert Oil Cooler Everything else is stock. |
10-29-2018, 10:57 AM | #2 |
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Your regimen looks good, you might want to check and prepare to replace wheel bearings, studs, and stock suspension bushings (personally I don't worry about my ARP studs, but a couple of friends change them out every other year as a precaution).
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10-29-2018, 11:02 AM | #3 |
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Tell us more about stock suspension bushings. Just replace them all with OEM? I'm concerned some of mine are nearly replacement time and would like to go with something slightly more firm and durable, but without extra NVH.
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10-29-2018, 11:16 AM | #4 | |
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Regarding wheel bearing I plan to change them when they brake but I do occasionally check them for play. I really don't want to change the rear since those have been problematic with my friends and end up damaging their wheel sensor and cause it to limp mode. I might get dealership to do that in the future and get the Wrx hubs so I can use 5x114.3 wheels. |
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10-29-2018, 11:33 AM | #5 | |
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10-29-2018, 12:19 PM | #7 |
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10-29-2018, 01:20 PM | #8 |
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I'm only curious about the suspension bushings. Which control arm bushings have you replaced specifically?
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10-29-2018, 09:29 PM | #9 | |
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Plans to upgrade
Maintenance:
1. Distilled water is a very marginal improvement and almost not worth the work and risk unless you need it, which I highly doubt. Factory blue coolant is very good actually. 2. Replacing transmission and rear differential fluid once a year is good practice. 3. I see you want to replace your front LCA. I went there and back to factory. My SPL left one exploded and nearly destroyed my car so I am just not caring about any aftermarket LCA's anymore. Be careful with the buddy club ones as the geometry correction could end up hitting your aftermarket rotors in the inside. For sure it hits my AP Racing kit. Factory LCA's ball joints are good for about 40 track days. They are so cheap that you can replace the whole LCA again and again. 4. Rear sub-frame and diff bushings are great. I love the white line stuff. 5. Solid motor mounts are not really needed. I am still in the stock ones and I love them. My BRZ is fully caged. Inspect them and if they crack then get the Perrin ones. 6. If you are rebuilding your suspension and needs it, well do it. I have the same suspension and it is perfect after 4 years. 7. Check your wheel hubs regularly for play while in the air and be attentive for noises while turning on the track. When one goes, replace them all. They are cheap anyways. They last me about 40 track days. 8. Inspect all your steering and rear half shaft boots often while in the air. Look for leakage or tear into the rubber. 9. Look for root cause out of any trace of leakage. 10. Bleed your brakes as often as needed depending on the fluid you use. My humble mods suggestions for you are: 1) Lightweight battery. Less weight is always better. Buy the best trickle charger for it and it will last you a long time. 2) Brake cooling ducts in the front. More life out of front pads and rotors. 3) Brake master cylinder brace. Better pedal feel by not warping the thin firewall on heavy braking. 4) Corner balance every year and find your mojo for negative camber and toe plus cross weights. It is a great way to wear tires even and balance your overall suspension wear. It feels so good when you drive a balanced car. 5) Oil pan baffle (Moroso). I know you have the accusump so you are probably OK. 6) Oil pressure gauge. A must do. 7) Consider thicker sway bars if it favors your driving style and preference. 8) Fuel tank door trap for lateral G's (Velox). Simple and nice mod to avoid fuel starvation on turns with high and sustained G forces. 9) If you are adding the fuel door trap change to a DW fuel pump of some sort. Anything is better than the factory fuel pump. 10) A/C delete kit including the A/C condenser. You do not need A/C on a track car. You need a cool suit. Removing it reduces drag in the belt and it will improve air flow through the radiator once the condenser is removed. 11) Consider down force. Front splitter, rear wing and a rear diffuser do amazing things for this platform or almost any platform actually. Be smart to choose a wing that does not drag too much since we have very little power anyways. 12) Roll bar is nice so you can use a 6 point harness but if you are going to have a dedicated track car you need a roll cage for adequate safety. It is one of those mods that really defines the purpose of your car. It took me 4 years to decide for it but I absolutely love mine. The car is so much better and actually lighter since all the interior is gone along with airbags. The downside is that I do not drive it in the street unless I am getting gas near the track because I still have a tag on it. Have it professionally built if you want it safe and up to a determined standard. Good luck in your quest for better performance. Quote:
Last edited by AndyBRZ; 10-31-2018 at 09:50 PM. |
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10-31-2018, 12:57 AM | #10 | |
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10-31-2018, 07:55 AM | #11 |
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^^ X2
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10-31-2018, 04:04 PM | #12 | |
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There is no way that rotor can hit the LCA. I have 328mm Stoptech and its no where near my LCA. |
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10-31-2018, 04:47 PM | #13 |
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The taller ball joints from the buddy club on factory or buddy club front lower control arm (Which are the same) hit my AP Racing rotor when turning all the way and either way. The interference was severe and I am not the only one that has had that. I am not sure if it will hit with your Stop Tech but I wanted to raise the flag for it. It all depends on the offset of your rotors.
The left SPL front control arm broke in tight right turn. Luckily I had done most of my braking from 125 mph and I managed to stop before I hit the guardrail. The failure appears to be caused by a defective material. I do praise SPL for dealing with this very professionally and accepting their part. Although they did not offer to cover any damage this caused to my car which was worth around $1,000 at least (I would not expect them to do that anyways), They did offer me a new set of front LCA's. I thanked them for it but since I do not really trust it, I went back to factory and I am totally fine with that. |
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10-31-2018, 08:59 PM | #14 | |
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Quote:
I have had the same experience with the factory ball joints, and after killing two sets, and pressing in an extended buddy club set, just to have them hit my ap rotors (sprint kit), called it a day and got some from spl thinking my ball joint woes would be done! Did a machined aluminum part manufactured by SPL fail, or was it one of the rod ends? You're not the first I have heard of have these fail (if it's a rod end) and I plan to replace mine at some interval. But after 20+ track days, they seem solid, even after a few excursions into "landscaping territory" lol |
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