follow ft86club on our blog, twitter or facebook.
FT86CLUB
Ft86Club
Delicious Tuning
Register Garage Members List Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Go Back   Toyota GR86, 86, FR-S and Subaru BRZ Forum & Owners Community - FT86CLUB > Technical Topics > Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting

Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting What these cars were built for!


User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 10-29-2018, 10:03 AM   #1
Kayysonie
Badass Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 2014 SWP BRZ Limited
Location: Near Detroit Zoo
Posts: 342
Thanks: 60
Thanked 68 Times in 48 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Track Car Maintenance

Hello,

I have been tracking my car coming to 3 years now and I'm getting to the where I like where my car sits now, modification wise, and just do tweaks and maintenance to dial handling in. Not planning to add more horsepower.

I want to know what else you guys do to just maintain your car after each season.

Here is what I did to mine after each season.
1st year - Just mostly fluids, diff and tranny, upgraded brakes and suspension, oil cooler.
2nd year - Added Accusump and bolt in roll bar and did fluids again. Did spark plugs at 60k
3rd year - what should I do?

I will be going over my car this winter and check on bushings and any parts that might need replacing because of wear.
I am sure some of my bushing is getting old as I daily'ed my car for 3 years before turning it to full track car.


Here is a list of what I plan to do.

1. Cooling Fluid Flush and switching to Distilled Water
2. Replace all fluids again, Diff, Engine, and Tranny.
3. Replace Front LCA with Buddy Club LCA with the geometry correction kit. (My compliance bushing might be shot on my OEM.)
4. Doing Rear Sub Frame and Differential Bushing for more stiffness.
5. Solid Motor Mounts?
6. Rebuild my Stance XR1 Suspension


Here is the list of Mods I have.
Stoptech BBK
Gruppe-S UEL
Stage 2 E85 (Switched to 93 for Winter even though its just sitting)
Autopower Rollbar
Accusump 1.5 or 2 qt
Reinharte/Stance XR1 Coilover
Whiteline Transmission Insert
Oil Cooler

Everything else is stock.
Kayysonie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 10:57 AM   #2
14stu
Senior Member
 
14stu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 588
Thanks: 22
Thanked 429 Times in 247 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Your regimen looks good, you might want to check and prepare to replace wheel bearings, studs, and stock suspension bushings (personally I don't worry about my ARP studs, but a couple of friends change them out every other year as a precaution).
14stu is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to 14stu For This Useful Post:
Tristor (10-29-2018)
Old 10-29-2018, 11:02 AM   #3
Pat
Senior Member
 
Pat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Drives: 2023 BRZ
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,806
Thanks: 1,482
Thanked 1,248 Times in 674 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14stu View Post
Your regimen looks good, you might want to check and prepare to replace wheel bearings, studs, and stock suspension bushings (personally I don't worry about my ARP studs, but a couple of friends change them out every other year as a precaution).
Tell us more about stock suspension bushings. Just replace them all with OEM? I'm concerned some of mine are nearly replacement time and would like to go with something slightly more firm and durable, but without extra NVH.
Pat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 11:16 AM   #4
Kayysonie
Badass Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 2014 SWP BRZ Limited
Location: Near Detroit Zoo
Posts: 342
Thanks: 60
Thanked 68 Times in 48 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14stu View Post
Your regimen looks good, you might want to check and prepare to replace wheel bearings, studs, and stock suspension bushings (personally I don't worry about my ARP studs, but a couple of friends change them out every other year as a precaution).
I did forget to mention that I have all ARP studs. I don't care at this point since I trust them. But I will probably change them in a year or two.

Regarding wheel bearing I plan to change them when they brake but I do occasionally check them for play. I really don't want to change the rear since those have been problematic with my friends and end up damaging their wheel sensor and cause it to limp mode. I might get dealership to do that in the future and get the Wrx hubs so I can use 5x114.3 wheels.
Kayysonie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 11:33 AM   #5
14stu
Senior Member
 
14stu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 588
Thanks: 22
Thanked 429 Times in 247 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat View Post
Tell us more about stock suspension bushings. Just replace them all with OEM? I'm concerned some of mine are nearly replacement time and would like to go with something slightly more firm and durable, but without extra NVH.
I've had good experiences with the whiteline bushings. They're a little stiffer than stock but there isn't too much additional nvh (I didn't really notice much and if you don't compare back to back you can't tell there is any).

Sent from my SM-G935V using Tapatalk
14stu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 12:10 PM   #6
Pat
Senior Member
 
Pat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Drives: 2023 BRZ
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,806
Thanks: 1,482
Thanked 1,248 Times in 674 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Garage
Specifically, which Whiteline suspension bushings have you replaced?
Pat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 12:19 PM   #7
14stu
Senior Member
 
14stu's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2014
Drives: 2014 Subaru BRZ
Location: Grapevine, TX
Posts: 588
Thanks: 22
Thanked 429 Times in 247 Posts
Mentioned: 9 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Garage
Quote:
Originally Posted by Pat View Post
Specifically, which Whiteline suspension bushings have you replaced?
The control arm bushings, subframe bushings, and diff inserts. I've used whiteline products in my previous WRX and eventually put in just about every bushing they made for the car.
14stu is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 01:20 PM   #8
Pat
Senior Member
 
Pat's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Drives: 2023 BRZ
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 1,806
Thanks: 1,482
Thanked 1,248 Times in 674 Posts
Mentioned: 34 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Garage
I'm only curious about the suspension bushings. Which control arm bushings have you replaced specifically?
Quote:
Originally Posted by 14stu View Post
The control arm bushings, subframe bushings, and diff inserts. I've used whiteline products in my previous WRX and eventually put in just about every bushing they made for the car.
__________________
Pat is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-29-2018, 09:29 PM   #9
AndyBRZ
Senior Member
 
AndyBRZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Drives: 2014 Silver BRZ Track Car
Location: United States
Posts: 116
Thanks: 41
Thanked 129 Times in 40 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Plans to upgrade

Maintenance:
1. Distilled water is a very marginal improvement and almost not worth the work and risk unless you need it, which I highly doubt. Factory blue coolant is very good actually.
2. Replacing transmission and rear differential fluid once a year is good practice.
3. I see you want to replace your front LCA. I went there and back to factory. My SPL left one exploded and nearly destroyed my car so I am just not caring about any aftermarket LCA's anymore. Be careful with the buddy club ones as the geometry correction could end up hitting your aftermarket rotors in the inside. For sure it hits my AP Racing kit. Factory LCA's ball joints are good for about 40 track days. They are so cheap that you can replace the whole LCA again and again.
4. Rear sub-frame and diff bushings are great. I love the white line stuff.
5. Solid motor mounts are not really needed. I am still in the stock ones and I love them. My BRZ is fully caged. Inspect them and if they crack then get the Perrin ones.
6. If you are rebuilding your suspension and needs it, well do it. I have the same suspension and it is perfect after 4 years.
7. Check your wheel hubs regularly for play while in the air and be attentive for noises while turning on the track. When one goes, replace them all. They are cheap anyways. They last me about 40 track days.
8. Inspect all your steering and rear half shaft boots often while in the air. Look for leakage or tear into the rubber.
9. Look for root cause out of any trace of leakage.
10. Bleed your brakes as often as needed depending on the fluid you use.


My humble mods suggestions for you are:
1) Lightweight battery. Less weight is always better. Buy the best trickle charger for it and it will last you a long time.
2) Brake cooling ducts in the front. More life out of front pads and rotors.
3) Brake master cylinder brace. Better pedal feel by not warping the thin firewall on heavy braking.
4) Corner balance every year and find your mojo for negative camber and toe plus cross weights. It is a great way to wear tires even and balance your overall suspension wear. It feels so good when you drive a balanced car.
5) Oil pan baffle (Moroso). I know you have the accusump so you are probably OK.
6) Oil pressure gauge. A must do.
7) Consider thicker sway bars if it favors your driving style and preference.
8) Fuel tank door trap for lateral G's (Velox). Simple and nice mod to avoid fuel starvation on turns with high and sustained G forces.
9) If you are adding the fuel door trap change to a DW fuel pump of some sort. Anything is better than the factory fuel pump.
10) A/C delete kit including the A/C condenser. You do not need A/C on a track car. You need a cool suit. Removing it reduces drag in the belt and it will improve air flow through the radiator once the condenser is removed.
11) Consider down force. Front splitter, rear wing and a rear diffuser do amazing things for this platform or almost any platform actually. Be smart to choose a wing that does not drag too much since we have very little power anyways.
12) Roll bar is nice so you can use a 6 point harness but if you are going to have a dedicated track car you need a roll cage for adequate safety. It is one of those mods that really defines the purpose of your car. It took me 4 years to decide for it but I absolutely love mine. The car is so much better and actually lighter since all the interior is gone along with airbags. The downside is that I do not drive it in the street unless I am getting gas near the track because I still have a tag on it. Have it professionally built if you want it safe and up to a determined standard.
Good luck in your quest for better performance.




Quote:
Originally Posted by Kayysonie View Post
Hello,

I have been tracking my car coming to 3 years now and I'm getting to the where I like where my car sits now, modification wise, and just do tweaks and maintenance to dial handling in. Not planning to add more horsepower.

I want to know what else you guys do to just maintain your car after each season.

Here is what I did to mine after each season.
1st year - Just mostly fluids, diff and tranny, upgraded brakes and suspension, oil cooler.
2nd year - Added Accusump and bolt in roll bar and did fluids again. Did spark plugs at 60k
3rd year - what should I do?

I will be going over my car this winter and check on bushings and any parts that might need replacing because of wear.
I am sure some of my bushing is getting old as I daily'ed my car for 3 years before turning it to full track car.


Here is a list of what I plan to do.

1. Cooling Fluid Flush and switching to Distilled Water
2. Replace all fluids again, Diff, Engine, and Tranny.
3. Replace Front LCA with Buddy Club LCA with the geometry correction kit. (My compliance bushing might be shot on my OEM.)
4. Doing Rear Sub Frame and Differential Bushing for more stiffness.
5. Solid Motor Mounts?
6. Rebuild my Stance XR1 Suspension


Here is the list of Mods I have.
Stoptech BBK
Gruppe-S UEL
Stage 2 E85 (Switched to 93 for Winter even though its just sitting)
Autopower Rollbar
Accusump 1.5 or 2 qt
Reinharte/Stance XR1 Coilover
Whiteline Transmission Insert
Oil Cooler

Everything else is stock.

Last edited by AndyBRZ; 10-31-2018 at 09:50 PM.
AndyBRZ is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following 3 Users Say Thank You to AndyBRZ For This Useful Post:
R2 (10-31-2018), TofuJoe (11-01-2018), treedodger (10-31-2018)
Old 10-31-2018, 12:57 AM   #10
R2
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2012
Drives: FR-S
Location: Sask., Canada
Posts: 250
Thanks: 84
Thanked 89 Times in 55 Posts
Mentioned: 20 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBRZ View Post
Maintenance:

3. I see you want to replace your LCA. I went there and back to factory. My SPL left one exploded and nearly destroyed my car so I am just not caring about any aftermarket LCA's anymore. Be careful with the buddy club ones as the geometry correction could end up hitting your aftermarket rotors in the inside. For sure it hits my AP Racing kit. Factory LCA's ball joints are good for about 40 track days. They are so cheap that you can replace the whole LCA again and again.
Tell us more about your experience with the SPL LCA. I presume you are referring to the front set?
R2 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 07:55 AM   #11
new2subaru
Weight Weenie
 
Join Date: Aug 2015
Drives: 15 FR-S
Location: Canada
Posts: 2,584
Thanks: 5,007
Thanked 2,330 Times in 1,346 Posts
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
^^ X2
new2subaru is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 04:04 PM   #12
Kayysonie
Badass Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2014
Drives: 2014 SWP BRZ Limited
Location: Near Detroit Zoo
Posts: 342
Thanks: 60
Thanked 68 Times in 48 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBRZ View Post
Maintenance:
1. Distilled water is a very marginal improvement and almost not worth the work and risk unless you need it, which I highly doubt. Factory blue coolant is very good actually.
2. Replacing transmission and rear differential fluid once a year is good practice.
3. I see you want to replace your LCA. I went there and back to factory. My SPL left one exploded and nearly destroyed my car so I am just not caring about any aftermarket LCA's anymore. Be careful with the buddy club ones as the geometry correction could end up hitting your aftermarket rotors in the inside. For sure it hits my AP Racing kit. Factory LCA's ball joints are good for about 40 track days. They are so cheap that you can replace the whole LCA again and again.
Are you talking about Front or Rear LCA?
There is no way that rotor can hit the LCA. I have 328mm Stoptech and its no where near my LCA.
Kayysonie is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-31-2018, 04:47 PM   #13
AndyBRZ
Senior Member
 
AndyBRZ's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2015
Drives: 2014 Silver BRZ Track Car
Location: United States
Posts: 116
Thanks: 41
Thanked 129 Times in 40 Posts
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
The taller ball joints from the buddy club on factory or buddy club front lower control arm (Which are the same) hit my AP Racing rotor when turning all the way and either way. The interference was severe and I am not the only one that has had that. I am not sure if it will hit with your Stop Tech but I wanted to raise the flag for it. It all depends on the offset of your rotors.
The left SPL front control arm broke in tight right turn. Luckily I had done most of my braking from 125 mph and I managed to stop before I hit the guardrail.
The failure appears to be caused by a defective material. I do praise SPL for dealing with this very professionally and accepting their part. Although they did not offer to cover any damage this caused to my car which was worth around $1,000 at least (I would not expect them to do that anyways), They did offer me a new set of front LCA's. I thanked them for it but since I do not really trust it, I went back to factory and I am totally fine with that.
AndyBRZ is offline   Reply With Quote
The Following User Says Thank You to AndyBRZ For This Useful Post:
new2subaru (10-31-2018)
Old 10-31-2018, 08:59 PM   #14
Joesurf79
Senior Member
 
Joesurf79's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Drives: 2016 White Pearl BRZ Premium
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 548
Thanks: 204
Thanked 251 Times in 147 Posts
Mentioned: 6 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quote:
Originally Posted by AndyBRZ View Post
The taller ball joints from the buddy club on factory or buddy club front lower control arm (Which are the same) hit my AP Racing rotor when turning all the way and either way. The interference was severe and I am not the only one that has had that. I am not sure if it will hit with your Stop Tech but I wanted to raise the flag for it. It all depends on the offset of your rotors.
The left SPL front control arm broke in tight right turn. Luckily I had done most of my braking from 125 mph and I managed to stop before I hit the guardrail.
The failure appears to be caused by a defective material. I do praise SPL for dealing with this very professionally and accepting their part. Although they did not offer to cover any damage this caused to my car which was worth around $1,000 at least (I would not expect them to do that anyways), They did offer me a new set of front LCA's. I thanked them for it but since I do not really trust it, I went back to factory and I am totally fine with that.
Hello Andy !

I have had the same experience with the factory ball joints, and after killing two sets, and pressing in an extended buddy club set, just to have them hit my ap rotors (sprint kit), called it a day and got some from spl thinking my ball joint woes would be done!

Did a machined aluminum part manufactured by SPL fail, or was it one of the rod ends? You're not the first I have heard of have these fail (if it's a rod end) and I plan to replace mine at some interval. But after 20+ track days, they seem solid, even after a few excursions into "landscaping territory" lol
Joesurf79 is offline   Reply With Quote
 
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
oil change/fluid maintenance intervals for track car? Turbo Tracking / Autocross / HPDE / Drifting 12 07-25-2021 02:44 AM
first maintenance need help!!!! jayliu.jiayu@gamil.com Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) 20 09-05-2018 03:37 AM
App to keep track of vehicle maintenance? Geese1 BRZ First-Gen (2012+) -- General Topics 18 05-29-2018 07:22 AM
50k maintenance RickyRacer Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) 13 07-27-2015 12:21 AM
25,000 Where can I go for maintenance. laley81 Southern California 9 09-20-2013 04:00 AM


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 05:34 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging v3.3.0 (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2024 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.

Garage vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.