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Mechanical Maintenance (Oil, Fluids, Break-In, Servicing) Everything related to the mechanical maintenance of the FR-S and BRZ


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Old 10-03-2018, 03:19 AM   #71
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5w-30 huhhh, hmmmm . I may make that switch.

**Use Redline Water Wetter (in your coolant) , that is suppose to reduce coolant temperatures, only costs about $10-13 !!! Problem solved!
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:56 AM   #72
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Originally Posted by steve99 View Post
the forester/wrx cooler will usually take 10-15C off your peak oil temps for about 15 minutes hard running, then they start to run out of capacity especially in warmer ambient temps.

Id probably switch to a 5w30 full synthetic oil in preference to the 0w20.

pretty well anyone who drives hard and doesnt live in a below freezing climate would be better on a 5w30 oil.
I'd been running Mobil1 5W-30 since ~10K miles (~53K now), and just recently bumped up again to Mobil1 0W-40. Should pump a little bit easier at cold temps, and give me a little more peak heat resistance to thinning out.
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Old 10-03-2018, 09:59 AM   #73
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5w-30 huhhh, hmmmm . I may make that switch.

**Use Redline Water Wetter (in your coolant) , that is suppose to reduce coolant temperatures, only costs about $10-13 !!! Problem solved!

I think WaterWetter does the opposite, actually....it facilitates the transfer of heat better because it's a surfactant, so the engine transfers MORE of it's heat to the coolant and to the radiator, ultimately keeping the motor cooler.
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:56 PM   #74
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Originally Posted by steve99 View Post
the forester/wrx cooler will usually take 10-15C off your peak oil temps for about 15 minutes hard running, then they start to run out of capacity especially in warmer ambient temps.

Id probably switch to a 5w30 full synthetic oil in preference to the 0w20.

pretty well anyone who drives hard and doesnt live in a below freezing climate would be better on a 5w30 oil.
Just a note on this, oil temps with 5w30 will show to be about 5F higher from my experience with the switch. But the pressure should be higher anyway, and that's what you really care about. (That was probably said earlier in the thread... To lazy to look lol)
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Old 10-03-2018, 04:58 PM   #75
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I think WaterWetter does the opposite, actually....it facilitates the transfer of heat better because it's a surfactant, so the engine transfers MORE of it's heat to the coolant and to the radiator, ultimately keeping the motor cooler.
It might also transfer more heat out the radiator, thus keeping the coolant cooler upon measurement.
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Old 10-03-2018, 08:52 PM   #76
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I think WaterWetter does the opposite, actually....it facilitates the transfer of heat better because it's a surfactant, so the engine transfers MORE of it's heat to the coolant and to the radiator, ultimately keeping the motor cooler.
Sorry, I thought that was the goal of this thread. Not over heating the engine/ coolent, and running as cool as.possible ( coolent temp not under 180 F, but something in between 190-205 F, and if engine oil is bound to be hotter....say 220-250 F , but as engine temp increase oil can break down, so on and so fourth.). So if engine oil is 250 F, what good/ bad is that? Run hot, but not too hot. Track Oct.- April, but not during summer time....how about that?
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Old 10-05-2018, 03:07 PM   #77
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Did anyone catch this in the original post?
Quote:
If it makes you feel safer, run a bit thicker oil but with thicker oil, comes increased engine wear at cooler temperatures and increased heat into the oil through more friction and less flow (flow and pressure are inverse, as you increase pressure, you decrease flow)
VerusEric's post is very good on all points but he may want to edit that comment as not to confuse. That statement in bold does not necessarily apply to hydraulic systems with positive displacement pumps.

Our positive displacement oil pumps are essentially constant flow machines. Increasing viscosity of a fluid in a fixed system with a positive displacement pump, increases system resistance (pressure) but does not decrease flow unless there is unanticipated system leakage or in the case of our engines (and most), a pressure relief valve.

Assuming the oiling system is operating at pressures below the point that fluid escapes past the PRV, then a change in viscosity will change pressure but not flow.


With multi-viscosity oils you can also run a thicker oil without sacrificing startup wear. In short, a 0w-40 should produce the same protection at startup as a 0w-20 (because 0W) but at operating temp it will produce more pressure (because 40) and if the PRV isn't part of the equation, the flow will be more or less the same.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:48 AM   #78
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Thanks for pointing that out. I'm still putting together all the puzzle pieces, doing my best to make sense of it all.

So 0w-20 oil is the recommendation by Toyota. I see that definitely being good Fall thru Winter. So possibly a 0w-30 ( or 5w-30) in Spring thru Summer ?

The two kickers of having a oil cooler for your engine: 1. initially watching for leaks, take care of them asap. 2. upon doing an oil change , making sure all the old oil is out of the system thru gravity . If the engine takes about 7.5 quarts of oil, not sure how much extra ( 1-2 quarts ? ) the oil cooler will hold upon doing a oil change. Its extra oil for the system, just making sure to drain it all is important.

On the oil cooler situation, can anyone recommend a good system to go with ? I'm not up on brands and models, of what's what.

Thanks in advance
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:54 AM   #79
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Originally Posted by venturaII View Post
I'd been running Mobil1 5W-30 since ~10K miles (~53K now), and just recently bumped up again to Mobil1 0W-40. Should pump a little bit easier at cold temps, and give me a little more peak heat resistance to thinning out.
0W-40 is thicker in the cold than 5W-30. The mobil1 0W-40 is also 1cSt thicker at 100°C than Mobil1 5w30 (negligible difference).

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Originally Posted by Adam_L View Post
Thanks for pointing that out. I'm still putting together all the puzzle pieces, doing my best to make sense of it all.

So 0w-20 oil is the recommendation by Toyota. I see that definitely being good Fall thru Winter. So possibly a 0w-30 ( or 5w-30) in Spring thru Summer ?

The two kickers of having a oil cooler for your engine: 1. initially watching for leaks, take care of them asap. 2. upon doing an oil change , making sure all the old oil is out of the system thru gravity . If the engine takes about 7.5 quarts of oil, not sure how much extra ( 1-2 quarts ? ) the oil cooler will hold upon doing a oil change. Its extra oil for the system, just making sure to drain it all is important.

On the oil cooler situation, can anyone recommend a good system to go with ? I'm not up on brands and models, of what's what.

Thanks in advance
If its just your simple daily driver, grab the oem subaru forester oil cooler. Warms up your oil faster with cold starts and helps lower oil temps (albeit only a little).

And California temperature doesn't change enough to really consider changing oil weights.
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Old 10-11-2018, 10:29 AM   #80
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0W-40 is thicker in the cold than 5W-30. The mobil1 0W-40 is also 1cSt thicker at 100°C than Mobil1 5w30 (negligible difference).



Seriously?? I didn't look at the data sheets when making the change; I just assumed Mobil wasn't using some sort of marketing trickery in their ratings...crap. I might move away from Mobil1 entirely then...
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Old 10-11-2018, 01:49 PM   #81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonburner View Post
If its just your simple daily driver, grab the oem subaru forester oil cooler. Warms up your oil faster with cold starts and helps lower oil temps (albeit only a little).

And California temperature doesn't change enough to really consider changing oil weights.
Thanks for the input. How much $ does the oem Forester oil cooler sell for new ?

Where I live, in winter it can get as cold as upper teens, to low 20's F. In the summer July-Sept, it can get as hot as 100-110 F ambient temps.
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Old 10-11-2018, 01:56 PM   #82
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Originally Posted by venturaII View Post
Seriously?? I didn't look at the data sheets when making the change; I just assumed Mobil wasn't using some sort of marketing trickery in their ratings...crap. I might move away from Mobil1 entirely then...
**edit: wrong, i had them reversed in my head**The first number in front of the W means the viscosity range in Hot, the second number is the viscosity range in cold. So ideally, you want an oil that is higher in the first number and lower in the second. This means the oil has a more stable viscosity in variable temperatures.

Quote:
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Thanks for the input. How much $ does the oem Forester oil cooler sell for new ?

Where I live, in winter it can get as cold as upper teens, to low 20's F. In the summer July-Sept, it can get as hot as 100-110 F ambient temps.
New for the part is about 180, them the stem 40, grab 2 tubings, 4 clamps for insurance. runs about 250 more or less.
https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...1311AA180.html
https://parts.subaru.com/p/Subaru_20...1317AA070.html
Pipes & clamps at your local hardware store.
Do note that the coolant ports under the throttle body have slightly different sizes (one being a bit smaller) which is why I suggest grabbing clamps.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:07 PM   #83
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Originally Posted by Bonburner View Post
The first number in front of the W means the viscosity range in Hot, the second number is the viscosity range in cold. So ideally, you want an oil that is higher in the first number and lower in the second. This means the oil has a more stable viscosity in variable temperatures.

I think you're saying that backwards...'W' stands for Winter. There's no automotive oil that has a higher first number than second. Regardless, those numbers are only very loosely related to centiStokes at specific temperatures, as seen on the PDS. That's a far more accurate comparison.
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Old 10-11-2018, 02:18 PM   #84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bonburner View Post
The first number in front of the W means the viscosity range in Hot, the second number is the viscosity range in cold. So ideally, you want an oil that is higher in the first number and lower in the second. This means the oil has a more stable viscosity in variable temperatures.
Are you 100% sure you didnt get that backwards? Im up to the second page in google and all I find confirms what I always though, winter grades are one thing, and normal grades are what matters when the engine is running and hot (5W is one grade altogether, 30 is the other, hence why multigrade viscosity oils).
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