Innovate (Sprintex) Supercharger Owners Topic

[Dream20b]

Originally Posted by Dream20b

is any coolant acceptable for the Intercooler system or does it have to be a certain kind?

so I called sprintex and they said 50/50 green

[continuecrushing]

Originally Posted by sam69

Can anyone with a boost gauge tell me what the maximum boost pressures you've seen and at what the approx ambient was at the time.

I could quite regularly see 13 psi but since installing the extra cooling idea I'm now seeing 15 psi on a 23 deg ambient and saw 16 psi once at 16 deg ambient so looks like have gained about 2 psi and even pushing it it seems to be doing it consistently .


Any data would be helpful .

when you gonna share this extra cooling idea?

[sam69]

Originally Posted by Shutter

when you gonna share this extra cooling idea?

Most likely not for a while as we now have do some comparisons against a stock intercooled 210 and we are looking into protecting the idea if warranted .

I wish I could say more but will say we're pretty sure this idea is going to help with heat soak issues .
I'm my own biggest critic but we know it's doing something cause as you know you don't get more boost unless the air is cooler .

[stockysnail]

Originally Posted by sam69

Most likely not for a while as we now have do some comparisons against a stock intercooled 210 and we are looking into protecting the idea if warranted .

I wish I could say more but will say we're pretty sure this idea is going to help with heat soak issues .
I'm my own biggest critic but we know it's doing something cause as you know you don't get more boost unless the air is cooler .

One you release it sign me up. If it works out on my 210, I may upgrade to the 335.

[calispec]

Originally Posted by sam69

Most likely not for a while as we now have do some comparisons against a stock intercooled 210 and we are looking into protecting the idea if warranted .

I wish I could say more but will say we're pretty sure this idea is going to help with heat soak issues .
I'm my own biggest critic but we know it's doing something cause as you know you don't get more boost unless the air is cooler .

I don't have an aftermarket MAP sensor or a boost gauge but has anyone else just logged boost in the winter months.. I can guarantee you will never see IAT's lower than what you get when it is cold outside.. It will at least give you an idea if what you are doing is actually caused by cold air.. I don't have data to back it up but 2 psi is a LOT.. I doubt you will see that kind of a gain.

EDIT:
After thinking about this for a while I think boost gain on a supercharger is a lot more complicated than IAT's

If you take a log when it is cold your CHANGE in temperature pre and post charger should be the exact same as when it is hot. You are compressing the exact same volume of air... one is just more DENSE than the other..

Aftercoolers actually cause a pressure drop for a couple reasons.. one they are a restriction (air has to flow through it).. and two they are cooling the charge back down causing it to become more dense (shrinking and in turn decreasing in pressure) An aftercooled car will always see lower MAP than a non aftercooled car. The gains are seen in the density of air not the pressure.

*for gain in 2psi, assuming constant volume, you need about a 70F increase in temperature*

The nice thing about superchargers is they are mechanically driven from the crank. They will always pump the SAME volume of air for every revolution of the motor. (assuming it is 100% efficient). You can't do anything to make them pump more.

If all you are doing is decreasing the temperature post charger.. not the flow of the supercharger.. I would assume that the more you cool the charge you should see a DROP in pressure.. not a gain..

The ONLY way to gain pressure is to increase the flow of the supercharger.. that can not be done unless you get a smaller pulley or figure out a way to make it more efficient..

So why do I make more power with more boost? because with boost comes DENSITY at the sacrifice of HEAT. A COLD 12 PSI charge is much much better than a HOT 15psi charge.

There is a good chance that I don't understand something and I very well could be wrong in what I am saying.. And if I am please someone point it out. I am here to learn and to bounce ideas off other car enthusiasts.. If you are gaining boost because you are cooling your charge down.. I want to know... WHY??

[SlowShifter]

Originally Posted by calispec

I am in need of some help...

My car sat for a few months and when I got it back I noticed a very severe stutter during tip-in below 2500 rpm. At first I thought it might be a vacuum leak and after a thorough inspection i am 100% confident that there aren't any. I re-flashed the ECU and went through the learning cycle. Still no change..

At tip in there is a surge of power, it then falls flat on its face, and then picks right back up. you could compare it to when traction control kicks in..

When I looked at the tune.. fuel starts to come in.. fuel system status does a dance between 2 and 3.. AFR goes through the roof.. fuel system status does another dance between 2 and 3.. and then fuel comes back and AFR drops like a rock. To me it looks like it has something to do with switching between direct and port injectors.. After tip in it makes great power and everything looks normal.. its just during tip in..

Has anyone else experienced anything like this? No CEL.. Nothing seems off.. Advanced multiplier goes from 1 down to .2 if I make it a point to cause the problem while driving.. If i am nice and smooth with my throttle or I stay in higher rpm's it is fine.

Any help is appreciated! I will try to post a pic of the tune later.

Hi calispec, I am in the exact position you are in. I went away for ~3 months and the car sat idle, and it has the same problems you notice. For me it wasn't particularly obvious at first except when going up a hill, I can get the tacho to bounce up and down if I try to push the throttle a "little bit" anywhere from 2000 to 3500 rpms. Higher RPMs than that is fine and pushing it hard is better I find.

I initially thought it could be the fuel filter or fuel pump due to the hill making it worse, it also seems worse when having a lower amount of gas in the tank, but my mechanic told me sitting idle for 3 months should be ok. I recently started thinking it could be related to the air intake system (which is just Toyota 86 stock box with stock filter) as things seemed to improve a bit after a clean there. I have a new filter coming soon and will see if it makes any difference. I'm also getting it retuned soon.

Unfortunately I do not have any solution yet or any other information to add. I have left it with this problem for a year, but I am hoping to get it fixed soon. Thank you for your post, I am glad I am not the only one who has had this problem happen to them and you seem very capable to find the cause!

*edit* BTW I have only recently noticed an error in the cars fuel usage info. It tells me 10.2L per 100KM currently, but my last 4 tanks are actually between 11.2 and 12.3L per 100. I'm not sure how many KM back it remembers but I feel like it should be reporting something closer to reality after ~1500KM . Maybe related to the issue (or it missing samples like you readout did), it used to be accurate for me. Same fuel the whole time.

[walletsr]

Just Purchased the 335 from Moto-Mike, I am running e-85 with injectors, and pump. I have been running the 85mm pulley and will be switiching to the 80mm pulley this weekend.

[calispec]

Originally Posted by SlowShifter

Hi calispec, I am in the exact position you are in. I went away for ~3 months and the car sat idle, and it has the same problems you notice. For me it wasn't particularly obvious at first except when going up a hill, I can get the tacho to bounce up and down if I try to push the throttle a "little bit" anywhere from 2000 to 3500 rpms. Higher RPMs than that is fine and pushing it hard is better I find.

I initially thought it could be the fuel filter or fuel pump due to the hill making it worse, it also seems worse when having a lower amount of gas in the tank, but my mechanic told me sitting idle for 3 months should be ok. I recently started thinking it could be related to the air intake system (which is just Toyota 86 stock box with stock filter) as things seemed to improve a bit after a clean there. I have a new filter coming soon and will see if it makes any difference. I'm also getting it retuned soon.

Unfortunately I do not have any solution yet or any other information to add. I have left it with this problem for a year, but I am hoping to get it fixed soon. Thank you for your post, I am glad I am not the only one who has had this problem happen to them and you seem very capable to find the cause!

*edit* BTW I have only recently noticed an error in the cars fuel usage info. It tells me 10.2L per 100KM currently, but my last 4 tanks are actually between 11.2 and 12.3L per 100. I'm not sure how many KM back it remembers but I feel like it should be reporting something closer to reality after ~1500KM . Maybe related to the issue (or it missing samples like you readout did), it used to be accurate for me. Same fuel the whole time.

Right now I am working through the issue with my tuner. I want to say its something mechanical because it started out of nowhere.. but everything I can come up with points back to a tuning issue.. I will keep you posted with what I find. If this lasts for a year I will go insane and end up replacing everything. I hate it when I can't figure out what is wrong.

[SlowShifter]

Originally Posted by calispec

Right now I am working through the issue with my tuner. I want to say its something mechanical because it started out of nowhere.. but everything I can come up with points back to a tuning issue.. I will keep you posted with what I find. If this lasts for a year I will go insane and end up replacing everything. I hate it when I can't figure out what is wrong.

Yeah? Unless the fuel at gas stations changed in the 3 months away I can't see how it could purely be a tuning issue. Reason is what changed? Only thing that really makes sense is somehow the fuel left in the car gucked up a bit and this has caused issues in the fuel lines/injectors. Which in turn has messed up the tune which was originally applied to non gucked up lines. I only run 98 octane fuel called "BP Ultimate", which is apparently the best we can get at a gas station. I also wondered if it could be the spark plugs, basically anything that came in contact with some gucky fuel.

I told this to my mechanic and he thought that it was unlikely to happen, but with a car just sitting there what happens to it? Dust? Rust? Actually now that I think back there was rust on my brake cylinders, but it came off after one drive, did the same happen to you? Never seen rust on the brake cylinders of a new car before. My car was slightly not covered from all rain and sun...but still... I am not close to an ocean or salt.

I guess the other thing to consider is somehow the sprintex supercharger itself has internal components which deteriorate if not used regularly. I really can't see how it can't be mechanically related as the only thing that changed, for me at least, is the fact the car was left alone for 3 months. No one else drove it.

I'll have some more info to report on this soon as I am also trying to get it looked into, seriously this time.

[Dream20b]

So I have some bad news- Towed my car in for the 335 upgrade to get tuned, found out my strange idle problem (revs jumping slowly up and down randomly) was caused by a lack of compression in cylinder #2. We're not sure if its a stuck valve or a cracked ringland.

[sam69]

So had this happened before the 335 went on or has it only just gone pear shaped since fitting ?

[riboyster]

Also, how does this happen after 3 months of no driving? Is it a problem with oil circulation? Did the engine semi seize on the first start?

[SlowShifter]

Originally Posted by riboyster

Also, how does this happen after 3 months of no driving? Is it a problem with oil circulation? Did the engine semi seize on the first start?

It didn't seize on start or do anything that weird. Maybe ran a little rough for a couple seconds but nothing you would think matters. Hopefully me or calispec can find the cause, its possible we both have separate issues, just seems strange we have the same symptoms and both left the car for some months idle.

[tegunulgener]

Did you check the sensor cables/connectors/sockets?I had a dodgy one and had to re solder and insulate with silicon after. It was playing up on any diagnose.

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk